Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-25-09, 04:29 PM   #201
peripatetic
Senior Member
 
peripatetic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Bikes: All 70s and 80s, only steel.
Posts: 2,124
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Always grease the threading on brake barrel adjusters--otherwise, the adjustment ferrules will corrode and seize onto the barrel.

When using a fourth hand tool, loosen the barrel adjuster 1/3-1/2 up before tensioning the cable, then tension the cable and tighten the cable bolt, and finish by readjusting tension with the barrel adjuster.
peripatetic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-09, 10:33 AM   #202
DMF 
Elitist Troglodyte
 
DMF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
Posts: 6,924
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
This thread contains good info on soldering cable ends. (scroll down a ways)
__________________
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

- Will Rogers
DMF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-09, 09:30 PM   #203
texasdiver
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Waco Texas
Bikes: Cannondale F2000, Co-Motion Periscope Torpedo, and many more
Posts: 208
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I've found that zip ties can be used to attach just about any accessory to a bike that lacks the proper braze-ons or eyelets. Search the electrical section of your local big box home supply store for a large selection of sizes and shapes. If you use the heavy duty ones you can really crank on them with a pair of pliers to get them really tight. I learned to use lots of zip ties on my scuba gear where they are perfect because no corrosion. Instead of snipping off the end of the zip tie with wire cutters, slice it off with a sharp utility knife to make the cut neater and less sharp.

For example, to attach a fender to the underside of a front fork that lacks an attachment bolt, just drill 2 holes on each side of the fender where the fork blades are and then zip tie the fender to the underside of the fork with a zip tie around the top of each fork blade.
texasdiver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-09, 04:26 AM   #204
wasabi
Member
 
wasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Switzerland
Bikes: Cannondale F-1000 (26" Hardtail for every day ride), Thömus Longrider (26" custom built travel bike), Basso Laguna (road race bike)
Posts: 38
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by texasdiver View Post
I..... For example, to attach a fender to the underside of a front fork that lacks an attachment bolt, just drill 2 holes on each side of the fender where the fork blades are and then zip tie the fender to the underside of the fork with a zip tie around the top of each fork blade.
??? Wouldn't it be easier to zip-tie the fender to the arc instead of the blades of the fork?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fork.jpg (38.9 KB, 60 views)

Last edited by wasabi; 07-12-09 at 04:48 AM.
wasabi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-09, 07:13 AM   #205
Joshua A.C. New
Senior Member
 
Joshua A.C. New's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Northampton, MA
Bikes: Iron Monkey: a junkyard steel 26" slick-tired city bike. Grey Fox: A Trek 7x00 frame, painted, with everything built, from spokes up. Jet Jaguar: A 92 Cannondale R900 frame, powder coated matte black with red and aluminum highlights.
Posts: 956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Zip ties will eventually break. They get very, very brittle from UV and ozone I think, until they snap like twigs. It takes several months at least, but if it's in a non-critical place (like a fender) then whatever.
Joshua A.C. New is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-09, 05:22 PM   #206
tradtimbo
Senior Member
 
tradtimbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monterey, California
Bikes: 1982 Fuji Team, 1979 Raleigh Team Record, 1984 Raleigh Team USA, Japanese Raleigh Super Course, 2000 LeMond Buenos Aires, 90's Schwinn High Plains, 1978? Austro Daimler Inter 10
Posts: 546
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshua A.C. New View Post
Zip ties will eventually break. They get very, very brittle from UV and ozone I think, until they snap like twigs. It takes several months at least, but if it's in a non-critical place (like a fender) then whatever.
This is not always true. Black zip ties tend to be UV resistent, but its good to double check. Usually for bike related things (computers, cage adaptors, fenders, etc) black should be used.
tradtimbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-09, 05:26 PM   #207
tradtimbo
Senior Member
 
tradtimbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monterey, California
Bikes: 1982 Fuji Team, 1979 Raleigh Team Record, 1984 Raleigh Team USA, Japanese Raleigh Super Course, 2000 LeMond Buenos Aires, 90's Schwinn High Plains, 1978? Austro Daimler Inter 10
Posts: 546
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by greyghost_6 View Post
Use your fingers to get nuts and bolts started, then use the wrench to tighten. Works every time.
Smart Ass. This doesn't work with "stunt sticks" or "peg" axle nuts for BMX bikes. You need a deep socket to get it started, unless you have tiny tine hands with tiny tiny wrist.
tradtimbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-09, 05:34 PM   #208
tradtimbo
Senior Member
 
tradtimbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monterey, California
Bikes: 1982 Fuji Team, 1979 Raleigh Team Record, 1984 Raleigh Team USA, Japanese Raleigh Super Course, 2000 LeMond Buenos Aires, 90's Schwinn High Plains, 1978? Austro Daimler Inter 10
Posts: 546
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sknhgy View Post
Powdered mica is the best lube to use when mounting tires on rims.
You can order it from bullet reloading supply houses like MidwayUSA.
Do you mean to coat your tube? or do you mean to help you get the tire onto the rim? If the latter, then I recommend you try without any lubricant at all. Your tire bead and beat seat in the rim should be nice and clean when you install your tire. If you can't do it with the force of your hands, then keep practicing. If you still can't do it, use a plastic tire lever carefully. Lube on a tire bead will compromise your tire seating and increase your chance for a blow out.
tradtimbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-09, 01:38 PM   #209
jcrattigan6557
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
The candle wax is a good suggestion. I can't stand trying to chip away at it, really gets under my skin.
jcrattigan6557 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-09, 09:54 PM   #210
enigmagic
Zweckentfremdung
 
enigmagic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Bikes: Soma Rush, Surly LHT
Posts: 175
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If you need to fish a cable through an aluminium frame through internal guides, Klein being one of the more common, a Cateye wheel magnet will allow you to manipulate the cable through the frame. Magic trick that takes a really irritating job and makes it much easier.
enigmagic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-09, 05:13 AM   #211
wroomwroomoops
Sir Fallalot
Thread Starter
 
wroomwroomoops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Bikes:
Posts: 5,275
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshua A.C. New View Post
Zip ties will eventually break. They get very, very brittle from UV and ozone I think, until they snap like twigs. It takes several months at least, but if it's in a non-critical place (like a fender) then whatever.
I have several zip ties on several bikes, and they have survived several years without any sign of brittleness. This doesn't mean that they won't break eventually, but it should take a very long time. I have seen a bicycle lock mounted onto the frame with very wide zip-ties (they were provided by the lock manufacturer itself), and also odometers and other such equipment, mounted on the handlebars with zip ties. I tend to think that zip ties will survive many years without difficulty.

All the zip-ties mentioned above are black. This is relevant because: zip ties are made of nylon (that is, of polyamide). Note that there are several kinds of nylons/polyamides, and some are more resistant to UV than others. UV-resistant nylon is usually black, because the easiest and best way to make UV-resistant nylon is to add carbon black particles.


BTW: hello guys and girls, I'm back
wroomwroomoops is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-09, 12:56 PM   #212
bonaparlare
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: France
Bikes: GT, Rockhopper & Orbit Silver Medal (brit)
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
zip ties

Hello. I too find that zip ties get brittle and need replacing, usually at the most inconvenient moment. However, I always had a ready supply, since so many groups used them to put up adverts on lamp-posts and telegraph poles. Later they'd rip the posters down but the zip ties tended to stay. Before retirement, on my way home from work, I'd take a craft knife and cut the ties at a sensible place, so there was a fair amount of "tail" left and they were reusable.
I presume someone will reply with a comment about how mean one can be! Rather than tightfistedness I saw it as recycling and ridding the countryside and town of stuff that wouldn't biodegrade. Nevertheless, I'll get that "meanie" reply but I'm thick skinned!
bonaparlare is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-09, 01:54 PM   #213
wasabi
Member
 
wasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Switzerland
Bikes: Cannondale F-1000 (26" Hardtail for every day ride), Thömus Longrider (26" custom built travel bike), Basso Laguna (road race bike)
Posts: 38
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshua A.C. New View Post
Zip ties will eventually break. They get very, very brittle from UV and ozone I think, until they snap like twigs. It takes several months at least, but if it's in a non-critical place (like a fender) then whatever.
I would not call a fender an uncritical place - if that thing gets stuck in your rotating front wheel you are in deep sh..

I have just read the thing with the UV-resistant black ones and must say I never had problems with the transparent ones neither. But I definitely avoid using the colored stuff that comes in blue, red, green white, pink etc. because I noticed these are of inferior quality even before getting brittle with UV (tore apart some with my bare hands when installing things)
wasabi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-09, 05:14 AM   #214
lusterwand
Senior Member
 
lusterwand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Bikes:
Posts: 65
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Got a loose Bottle boss? A quick release skewer and the appropriate hollow axle. Thread skewer into the loose boss till the axle seats,(use washers if it threads too deep), and use the lever to re-chinch the insert.
lusterwand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-09, 07:59 PM   #215
Mr Zippy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Bikes:
Posts: 67
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chop61 View Post
When trying to pinpoint noise when the bike is on a repair stand, I'll use the empty spool from a roll of paper towels. I'll hold it up to my ear and point the other end to the part on the bike where I think the noise is coming from. It really does help, though it seems pretty stupid after typing it up here.
Another less embarrassing trick is to use a longer blade screwdriver. You put the blade on the part where you think the noise is, and your ear on the end of the handle. More accurate than your method, OTOH though, you want to be careful not to scratch what you put the blade end on, if visible scratches matter.
Mr Zippy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-09, 10:59 PM   #216
Panthers007
Great State of Varmint
 
Panthers007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Dante's Third Ring
Bikes:
Posts: 7,479
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Zippy View Post
Another less embarrassing trick is to use a longer blade screwdriver. You put the blade on the part where you think the noise is, and your ear on the end of the handle. More accurate than your method, OTOH though, you want to be careful not to scratch what you put the blade end on, if visible scratches matter.
Put down a piece of Scotch-Tape where you're going to place the screwdriver. Or similar.
Panthers007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-09, 02:18 AM   #217
Mr Zippy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Bikes:
Posts: 67
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panthers007 View Post
Put down a piece of Scotch-Tape where you're going to place the screwdriver. Or similar.
That'd work, although on good blade screwdrivers, the edges of the blade a fairly sharp so a bit of pressure would possibly cut through the tape. You could buy a cheap blade screwdriver (e.g. at the supermarket) just for this purpose, and then sand off or file off the sharp edges.
Mr Zippy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-09, 12:44 PM   #218
randalll
Guest
 
Bikes:
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
re-align your callipers to your discs so that they run parallel and dont rub:

you dont need to take the wheels off, just unscrew the brakes and let them hang on the cables.

now cut two small pieces of card and place them in the gap where the disc goes. before putting them in fold out the edges a bit, so you can put it over the disc easier. now start to screw the brake back onto the holder thing (i dont know the technical word for that part )

it should be quite a tight fit... if not, take it off and use thicker card or fold it over if thats not too thick.

take the card out once you're done and there should be an even gap either side of the disc

Last edited by randalll; 08-07-09 at 05:15 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-09, 04:31 AM   #219
Skones MickLoud
This steel horse I ride
 
Skones MickLoud's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Warshington DC
Bikes: 1980something Schwinn Tempo
Posts: 187
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
When in doubt, apply more lube.

To keep your frame-mounted pump clear, stick the valve from an old tube in there.

An old bottle of eyedrops (sans saline) filled with lubricant is the perfect size for a frame bag. Fill it with a syringe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KDTX View Post
Use a Hammer and a sharp chisel. Lay the cable on another hammer/piece of hard metal. etc. Hold chisel where you want it cut and ...wackkkk with the hammer. This actually cuts the cable very well!
The woodworker in me is cringing at the thought of this!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackklas View Post
Youtube has "how to" videos on almost every aspect of bicycle mechanics. Great resource!
Watch them, and then get a second opinion. The "experts" that make videos for ExpertVillage are usually anything but.
Skones MickLoud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-09, 08:51 AM   #220
robo
Senior Member
 
robo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA
Bikes: 1990 Burley Bossa Nova, 1992 Paramount PDG-70, 1993 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2005 Jamis Dakar XC Pro, 2007 Rivendell Bleriot
Posts: 1,081
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
How to repair a separated seatpost head:

(NOTE - this only applies if the glue holding the head in place on the post has failed. It is NOT APPROPRIATE if any metal parts have snapped! The repair is only holding critical parts _in place_, not taking any major stresses itself)

This seatpost is from right about the era when Syncros manufacturing had been moved to Taiwan and their stuff started to suck.. Same design (mostly) as the classic ones, but the quality had clearly gone to pot.. On a ride a while back, the head came unbonded from the post, causing the seat to swivel around freely. Not a disastrous failure, luckily, but it rendered the seatpost useless. Here's how I fixed it:


Separated post and head:


Insert head, line it up, drill a hole, and use a 5mm thread tap to make threads:


All the way through. Not shown is coating the mating surfaces of the post and head with JB Weld. The bolt is essentially there as an extra precaution against another separation (since glue didn't hold up the first time around, apparently). No photos because i didn't want to get JB Weld smears on my camera


Back on and lined up, excess JB Weld wiped off:


Standard bottle cage bolt, 5mm threads:


Screw it in:


And tighten!
robo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-09, 12:36 PM   #221
elcraft
elcraft
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Greater Boston
Bikes:
Posts: 442
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Alcohol swipes!

Alcohol swipes (Like the ones used to clean Hypodermic needle injection sites at the hospital/doctor's office) can be obtained in foil "ready wipe" packages at drugstores. One or two of them usually fit neatly into the patchkit. They are useful for exactly this situation. I also cut a two sided emory board down to fit in my patchkit and use that sand down the innertube. The flimsy piece of sand paper supplied isn't as usable. Also a small amount of Talcum powder in a small zip lock bag (oddly enough, available in drugstores too- but be aware that they can "look" like illicit drugs for sale!)is useful to dust the tube with to prevent any stray tube cement from causing the tube and tire to stick together. These items are especially useful in poor lighting conditions that commuters may find themselves in!

Quote:
Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops View Post
From another thread: you patched your tube, but the patch leaks? It wouldn't stick properly (or at all)?

I had a few patches that wouldn't stick. Then I learned to clean the tube around the puncture with alcohol, and since then, all patches lasted forever. If you don't have a little bottle with alcohol with you while riding, a solution might be a little packed wet tovel (like those you get in the plane). Make sure the area around the puncture is perfectly dry and, above all, without grease. Any amount of grease or dust will cause the patch not to stick.

Also, remember to wait for the glue (or "cement") to dry, before placing the patch over it, and then push on it like you're possessed.
elcraft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-09, 10:34 PM   #222
jan12
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Bikes:
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Clean the bicycle really well before work is done. Take the time to wash (and maybe even wax) the bike. It's time well spent.
jan12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-09, 01:33 AM   #223
WCoastPeddler
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: West Coast
Bikes:
Posts: 546
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Zippy View Post
Another less embarrassing trick is to use a longer blade screwdriver. You put the blade on the part where you think the noise is, and your ear on the end of the handle. More accurate than your method, OTOH though, you want to be careful not to scratch what you put the blade end on, if visible scratches matter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panthers007 View Post
Put down a piece of Scotch-Tape where you're going to place the screwdriver. Or similar.
Put the tape on the end of the screw driver and you can check several potential sources of the noise without getting tape all over the bike.
WCoastPeddler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-09, 07:30 AM   #224
XR2
Senior Member
 
XR2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Back in the hills again
Bikes: 88 Bridgestone T700
Posts: 1,004
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
For chasing down noises.A stethoscope.

XR2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-09, 08:29 AM   #225
engo
The spirit is willing...
 
engo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ottawa, ON
Bikes: 2013 custom, 1994 Marinoni Special, 1934 Macleans Featherweight, 1984 Bertrand, 2011 self-built custom
Posts: 287
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
For mounting a front fender on a bike with a recessed brake bolt/nut: Rather than using Sheldon Nuts, or mounting the bracket to the front of the fork (which can cause the braces to interfere with the fork sometimes), I enlarged the hole in mounting tab to slide over the recessed nut, and put the tab inside the fork crown. To keep the tab towards the back of the crown, I also put a short section of rubber hose in front of it. Happy with the results so far.
engo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:41 PM.