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  1. #1
    Hammer Time C_LOGAN's Avatar
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    Removing old Maeda (Suntour) freewheel

    I have a bike which requires a new spoke - next to the freewheel. I can replace the spoke without taking the freewheel off by using my own patented method of bending the spoke until it goes through, and then bending it back into shape..

    As you can imagine, this is a very bad method..... Is there any way to remove a Maeda freewheel without using a tool? I have a Shimano freewheel remover, but not an old Suntour one. I don't want to purchase a tool as I am selling the bike - and don't usually deal with these sorts of very old parts.

  2. #2
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    Bring it to a shop, although they'll probably charge you more to remove it than the $6 it would cost you to buy the tool...

  3. #3
    Hammer Time C_LOGAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
    Bring it to a shop, although they'll probably charge you more to remove it than the $6 it would cost you to buy the tool...
    I have the option of going to a shop - they will most likely do it for nothing as all it takes is a twist and a bit of elbow grease.. I just can't be bothered carrying a wheel. Just wondering if there is a simple tool method.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by C_LOGAN
    I have the option of going to a shop - they will most likely do it for nothing as all it takes is a twist and a bit of elbow grease.. I just can't be bothered carrying a wheel. Just wondering if there is a simple tool method.
    The proper tool is the only way to remove the freewheel without destroying it. These things are torqued on super tight from pedaling forces and a simple hammer-and-punch approach won't work. A Sun Tour 2 or 4-prong (depending on the model) remover is a cheap tool and a lot less expensive than having to replace the freewheel.

  5. #5
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    I just can't be bothered carrying a wheel. Just wondering if there is a simple tool method.
    Bash the thing to bits with a BFH. Or you could make a trip to the LBS for the correct "simple tool".

  6. #6
    Hammer Time C_LOGAN's Avatar
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    Maybe I can put the freewheel and cranks on the LHS of the bike - and pedal really hard. It may just pop off...

    Thanks for the input.. I suspected there may not be a way to do this without the tool - I just wanted to check before I went out to buy a tool that I will most likely never use again. I may just go to the LBS and request that they remove it for me.

  7. #7
    Your mom
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    You need the tool. And it may still be a b*tch with the proper tool.

  8. #8
    Hammer Time C_LOGAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tellyho
    You need the tool. And it may still be a b*tch with the proper tool.
    Not with my 12'' wrench and the stomp of death.

  9. #9
    Your mom
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    Just make sure the death stomp doesn't wind up the stomp of nutsack death as well.

  10. #10
    Hammer Time C_LOGAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tellyho
    Just make sure the death stomp doesn't wind up the stomp of nutsack death as well.
    I am not worried about nutsack death on a 27 inch wheel. Maybe if I was doing the same thing on the front wheel of a penny farthing I would be a bit concerned.

  11. #11
    Death fork? Naaaah!! top506's Avatar
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    Plan 'B':
    Unscrew the front ring of the freewheel (it's reverse threaded) with a punch and hammer. Flip the wheel over a coffee can to catch the approx 100 small ball bearings that will fall out. Remove the cogset, and the pawls and springs from the freewheel body. Clamp the freewheel body in a vise across the flats machined for the pawls and springs. A large pipe wrench will work as well. Unscrew the wheel from the freewheel body. If needed, touch up any burs on the freewheel body caused by clamping with a file. Then re-assemble the freewheel.
    While I've been forced to do this now and again, plan 'A' (buy the tool or go to the LBS) is far more attractive.
    Top
    You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by top506
    Plan 'B':
    Unscrew the front ring of the freewheel (it's reverse threaded) with a punch and hammer. Flip the wheel over a coffee can to catch the approx 100 small ball bearings that will fall out. Remove the cogset, and the pawls and springs from the freewheel body. Clamp the freewheel body in a vise across the flats machined for the pawls and springs. A large pipe wrench will work as well. Unscrew the wheel from the freewheel body. If needed, touch up any burs on the freewheel body caused by clamping with a file. Then re-assemble the freewheel.
    While I've been forced to do this now and again, plan 'A' (buy the tool or go to the LBS) is far more attractive.
    Top
    I know this works but the usual final instruction of Plan B is: "discard all the damaged pieces and fit a new freewheel." Given the force needed to remove a well-tightened freewheel, I'm surprised the body ever survives the wrench application in usable form.

  13. #13
    Death fork? Naaaah!! top506's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider
    I know this works but the usual final instruction of Plan B is: "discard all the damaged pieces and fit a new freewheel." Given the force needed to remove a well-tightened freewheel, I'm surprised the body ever survives the wrench application in usable form.
    Of the half a dozen or so Atom, Normandy, and old Shimano freewheels I've removed this way I only buggered one of them up beyond repair. Most didn't even require touch-up filing. Those feewheel bodies are tough!
    However, I do not recommend this execpt as an absolute last resort.
    Top
    You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.

  14. #14
    www.theheadbadge.com cudak888's Avatar
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    Get your behind in gear and take that wheel to the LBS. Far less effort then wrecking the damn thing with a hammer and punch. Either that, or buy the correct two-prong remover tool - if nothing else, you will find reason to use it again, and it'll work on the 4-prong variants as well. $6-7 isn't going to kill you.

    -Kurt

  15. #15
    Hammer Time C_LOGAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by top506
    Plan 'B':
    Unscrew the front ring of the freewheel (it's reverse threaded) with a punch and hammer. Flip the wheel over a coffee can to catch the approx 100 small ball bearings that will fall out. Remove the cogset, and the pawls and springs from the freewheel body. Clamp the freewheel body in a vise across the flats machined for the pawls and springs. A large pipe wrench will work as well. Unscrew the wheel from the freewheel body. If needed, touch up any burs on the freewheel body caused by clamping with a file. Then re-assemble the freewheel.
    While I've been forced to do this now and again, plan 'A' (buy the tool or go to the LBS) is far more attractive.
    Top
    I don't have a vise or a punch.... My tool set consists of variety of spanners, wrenches, screw drivers, hammers, crank tool, bb cartridge tool, shimano freehwheel removal tool, chain tool, pen, magnet attached to a string incase I loose any parts under the verandah.

  16. #16
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    In the 21 plus hours between your first and last post you might have been able to squeeze a trip or six to the bike shop into your tight schedule. Throw that fuggan wheel into the nearest lake.

  17. #17
    Hammer Time C_LOGAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noam Zane
    In the 21 plus hours between your first and last post you might have been able to squeeze a trip or six to the bike shop into your tight schedule. Throw that fuggan wheel into the nearest lake.
    I live in Australia - the time is all messed up here. You might think I have the time - but most of the 21 hours has been night. And I don't feel like going outside at the moment - it has been raining and I don't want to get the soles of my shoes wet.

  18. #18
    www.theheadbadge.com cudak888's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C_LOGAN
    I live in Australia - the time is all messed up here. You might think I have the time - but most of the 21 hours has been night. And I don't feel like going outside at the moment - it has been raining and I don't want to get the soles of my shoes wet.
    Is that to say that the shops are open for no more then 3 hours?

    Put boots on.

    Excuses, excuses...

    -Kurt

  19. #19
    cab horn
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    Why is this still being discussed.

    1) Freewheel tool: $5
    2) Put wheel in bench vise, turn - job complete.
    -or-
    3) take it to your LBS.

    Thread over.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  20. #20
    o.O Seggybop's Avatar
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    A screwdriver and a hammer will work, you don`t really need a vise and punch.
    mi yu mi yu

  21. #21
    Hammer Time C_LOGAN's Avatar
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    OK. I will put this thread to bed. I am going to the bike shop to buy some spokes, and whilst there will request that they loosen the freewheel for me.

    Thanks for the input and motivation to leave the house.

    Urgent update: It is now a few hours after the initial posting of this message - I took it to the bike shop and they loosened it for me - I bought a few spokes, bought a star nut and a set of metal tyre levers. I had the star nut installed and freewheel loosened for free. All up $14.00 which is about how much a tool would have cost.

    Urgent update: Spokes have been replaced and bike reassembled.
    Last edited by C_LOGAN; 07-09-07 at 03:13 AM.

  22. #22
    Senior Member
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    Many LBSs do not have old freewheel removal tools for sale. Let the shop do it.

  23. #23
    Dave the tourer
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    holy crap. did I just spend 10 minutes of my life reading this thread? (and another minute typing a reply?)

  24. #24
    Vive la vélorution! laman012's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidrhorn View Post
    holy crap. did I just spend 10 minutes of my life reading this thread? (and another minute typing a reply?)
    holy crap. did i just read this all four years later and then bring the thread back to life?
    http://i.imgur.com/2lJE1.gifhttp://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...2j61rv7gx3.gif

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  25. #25
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    I had the same problem, googled it, found this thread - here's what I did. Oh and it might not be a Maeda, perhaps a 'perfect', sounds like a similar construction though.

    anyway

    1. remove the axle
    2. I used a 12mm crescent wrench and stuck the open end into the centre of the freewheel - the ends of the wrench were the right width and had the right spread that they grabbed the two slots. Then I used an adjustable wrench to grab the cheeks of the 12mm wrench as close to the freewheel as I could. I kept one hand on the wrench to steady it and the other to torque the adjustable - worked like a charm. Maybe less chance of damage than the punch and hammer method? (but if it works it works).

    good luck - I now need to disassemble the thing....

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