exas

so i screw in the small threaded part into the notch, then i take the part with the wrench and large screw and thread that in until it stops going in easily. now do i still continue turning clockwise? cuz thats what i did and now the wrench is really stuck, what next?

DMF 

Uhhh,,, what does this mean?

Assuming that the small threaded part is loose (you can turn it freely), the big part is securely seated and you use the small part to press off the crank.

neil0502

Wait. Wait. I think I know this one:

Does this answer your question?

From the ParkTool site:

Procedure for crank removal:

1. Remove crankarm bolt and any washer inside the arm.
2. Unthread nut from handle stud of CCP-4 or CWP-6 until the tip is flush with the nut. This allows tool to have full thread contact inside the crank.
3. Thread nut into crankarm and tighten with wrench until snug. If nut is not completely threaded into crankarm, the threads of the arm or nut may be damaged.
4. Thread handle stud into nut. When resistance is felt, continue threading handle stud into nut until crankarm is removed.
5. Repeat process on other arm.

rmfnla

I think "what next" is you give your tools to charity...

Seriously, it sounds like you screwed the "pusher" part in before the "puller" part of the tool.

This is so much easier to demonstrate than explain; is there a decent shop in your area that would let you watch them pull a crank?

Getting it wrong can be pretty expensive.

freeranger

After you have removed the crank bolts, and looked into the hole to be sure there is not a washer or anything else in there, then you thread the LARGER portion of the crank puller into the crank until it doesn't want to go any further. Then you thread the smaller portion, which goes thru the center of the larger part of the crank puller, into it. You should start to feel resistance. Keep threading the SMALLER part into the larger part until the arm comes off. The smaller part pushes against the "axel" of the btm.bracket. The larger part of the puller is used to thread into the arm and give the smaller portion something to thread into. Hope I didn't cause further confusion. I just put a new btm.bracket on one of the bikes and had no problem removing the crank arms--did your crank puller come with any instructions-they might be clearer than I'm being.

freeranger

Those must have been on there REAL tight! Mine came off much easier, but glad you got them off. Be careful tightening them, you do want to make them very tight, but it is possible to actually tighten too much and strip the threads. Park Tool gives the torque as 305-391 inch lbs., if you have a torque wrench. I just do it by feel, and they do have to be tight! But yeah, you just put the arm back on the taper, and tighten the bolt, tighten, but don't strip it!

flickerx

I've done all this. Every time I've put the stud into the nut and put it in all the way as far as it will go, and then it stops dead. No matter how much (clockwise? yes) pressure I put on that stud, it will not budge. I nearly broke my arm today. What should be happening? Should the crank just magically slip off the bottom bracket? Should the entire crank and the nut be moving anti-clockwise up the stud? Maybe someone has a video clip they can point me to?

Yes, I know this has probably been asked a few times before (hence why I searched for it rather than start a new thread) and I'm a thick stupid newbie, but please, any help or advice - in extremely basic terms - is much appreciated. I'm building my first bike (a fixed gear) ever so thats why I joined these forums so please be nice.

George Wong

happened to me, just get a hammer and pound on it

Winter76

And get ready to buy a new bottom bracket, hammering your crank is a terrible idea. I know, I tried it once...

flickerx

I dont care too much about the bottom bracket really cos the bike is slightly older and I got it reasonably cheap, but I'd like to know how to do it properly without damaging parts. Any other advice aside from smashing the bleedin thing off?

(trust me, I'm very close to doing just that with the frustration!!)

flickerx

Oh, if I do end up hammering it off, is there any chance it could damage the threads on the hole in the frame where the bracket slots into? This is something I do not want to do.

bfromcolo

Might try something like a good soak with liquid wrench or PB Blaster and then going at it with the tool again. I have seen it written here numerous times like riding around with bolt out can loosen the crank arms but I have never tried this deliberately.

Good luck, I would take it to a shop before I resorted to violence...

George Wong

On hind sight it was probably a dumb thing for me to use a hammer and even dumber for me to suggest it

i got lucky though, no damage, i put my old crank back on because none of the half a dozen bike shops in davis CA has a single 73/118 octalink BB.... poopy pants

DMF 

Ummm... Do you by any chance have cottered cranks?

flickerx

No. They're the normal ones. I got the bolt out, and a standard crank removal tool slips nicely into the threaded hole of the crank.

jim p

Try pulling the crank in the normal way. When you get a fair amount of pressure on the small screw to pull the arm leave it with this pressure on it and get a heat gun and heat the crank. The crank may expand enough to release from the axel.

DMF 

When you get good pressure on the crank, tap the puller plunger with a hammer. The shock will often loosen a frozen joint. After tapping, try adding more pressure. Repeat as necessary. I'd try that before the heat.

bent trike

Hi;Could you possibly be using the wrong crank puller?Park has an older model for square taper,(CP2 I believe),and a newer model for the hollow Octalink or Isis cranks.The CP2 has a smaller contact point which will wedge into the hollow centre of the crank without pulling the crank arm off.It's worth consideration.

Earl

flickerx

What direction should I tap the puller plunger? Downwards towards the crank itself? Or sideways?

(again, forgive my pig ignorance)

flickerx

Ah no its definitely the right size - I think. The contact point doesnt go into the little hole where the bolt used to be, its bigger than the hole and sits on top of it.

Its not one of those octalink cranks.

DMF 

Straight in, like you were driving a spike. Be gentle. No more than a 2-4" swing.

flickerx

OK I'll get going on it tomorrow. I cycled from Newry in Northern Ireland to Drogheda today in the driving wind and rain via Carlingford Lough on my fixie, and I'm wrecked. I'll let you know how I get on. I really want that crank off the bike.

flickerx

Gave it a single tap as recommended, got the left one off, but damaged the threads on the right crank, and its not going anywhere soon. Will look up other ways to try and take it off.

Boss Moniker

It sounds like the tool is bottoming out. Flickerx, does the tool do the same thing if you were to screw the part with the arm all the way into the puller part (when it's not attached to the bike?)

If so.. add some shims between the end of your bottom bracket spindle and the plunger on the tool. A decently sized nut should do the trick.

I've had this problem before, although the crank arm was 90% of the way off before the tool bottomed out.

DMF 

Damaged the threads how? (I didn't recommend a single tap, btw.)

With the left side off, you may be able to remove the bottom bracket with the crank still attached.