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  1. #1
    Disraeli Gears Charles Wahl's Avatar
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    Riding: 1960s Falcon commuter; Queued: 1977 Bob Jackson, 1983 Serotta Club Special, 1984 Motobécane Team Champion, 1983 Guerciotti SLX, 1974 Harding (like Holdsworth Pro), 1974 Peugeot PX10LE, 1970s Jeunet Franche-Comté, 1974 Raleigh International
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    Flip-flop vs. road hub for singlespeed

    Converting a thread-on freewheel-equipped multispeed with 126 mm rear dropout to singlespeed for city riding. Could use existing hub (campy SR) but am just as happy to have a new wheel built.

    Would still like to have quick release (fixing flats).

    Don't really care whether the wheel is flip-flop or not.

    I'm a moderately heavy (185#/84 kg) rider, and I'd like the wheel to be as strong as possible.

    So, question is, what sort of hub is going to provide the max. distance between spoke flanges -- existing vintage road hub, with respacing/redishing for track chainline, NOS track hub, or something like Surly ("old" model) flip-flop?

    Thanks,

  2. #2
    Your mom
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    Track and Surly will give you the same width of hub shell, which will be more than the old hub. That said, there are plenty of Clydesdales out there riding respaced and -dished freehubs.

  3. #3
    * vpiuva's Avatar
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    I respaced & redished my 126mm Campy hub for SS and have no issues. They are 28 spoke laced 2X and I weigh 200#.

  4. #4
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    A track hub will get you a little wider flange spacing, but if you want QR just keep your present hub.
    Do the axle spacing prebuild, to get your chain line like you want. If you can, move the chainring in as far as you can. Either run it on the inside of the crank or use a narrow BB. Use a chainline tool to get the hub centered with the chainring. If you shifted the chainring a s close to the stay as you can yo should have a zero or near zero dish. Now make your measurements to calculate spoke length. Pick a good sturdy rim(Velocity, Salsa, etc) and go double butted and you will have a good strong wheel.
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