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  1. #1
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    Spray paint mishap

    I tried to clearcoat my frame and fork last night using rattlecan rustoleum painter's touch crystal clear matte clearcoat. The frame is painted flat black.

    I followed the directions, sprayed 15 inches away, and waited 30 min between coats. I did 3 coats. When I went to check on the frame and fork this morning, the fork looks fine but the frame looks like a glazed doughnut with a white speks all over it. The frame was dry to the touch so I look a clean towel and tried rubbing the white residue off the frame; it came off in some spots but not others. I had to leave for work so i only had a few minutes to try to fix it.


    What did I do wrong? Any way to remove this white crap without further screwing up the paintjob? Any suggestions would be appreciated

  2. #2
    uberNEWB dzinehaus's Avatar
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    Sand between coats
    Be Happy, Live Life, Be Strong ~j.michaud / dzinehaus

  3. #3
    My bike's better than me! neil0502's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dzinehaus View Post
    Sand between coats
    Yes, but carefully. Look what happened when I let it get out of hand....
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dzinehaus View Post
    Sand between coats
    what grain of paper?

  5. #5
    It's ALL base... DScott's Avatar
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    WET sand, and use very fine grit paper, like 3000-4000 grit. Prep is key...

    Review this thread for more help: PAINT questions?...anybody..

  6. #6
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    it was a new frame that was already painted but not clear coated

  7. #7
    It's ALL base... DScott's Avatar
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    Still, wet sanding between coats helps alot. Letting each coat dry completely helps, too. Painting anything is always a test of my frustration tolerance and an exercise in patience...

  8. #8
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    Sounds like incompatability between the color and clearcoat paints. Were they both the same system, eg, Rustoleum?
    Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace

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  9. #9
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    I have no clue what type of paint came on the frame.

  10. #10
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    3000-4000 grit will get you no where. You need to wet-sand some of the top layer of clear coat you just sprayed. You should use around 600 - 1000 grit to wet sand. After you are done there should not be any shiny spots left, only dull looking black. At this point you need to apply a car polish. I would use a liquid polish and apply it using a buffer set to around 900 rpm. That should shine it back up.

    Hopefully that works, as stated earlier it could be mis-match base coat and clear coat that is causing problems.
    Last edited by s0rcerer13; 07-19-07 at 03:04 PM.

  11. #11
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    thanks for the info. Thing is, I don't want it to be shiny. The paint was a "flat black"--kinda dirty industrial looking. I don't want it to look glossy, hence the use of the rustoleum "painters touch" clear coat rather than their more neavy duty enamel (which comes only as a glossy clear coat).

    I will attempt the wet sanding tonight. What doesn't make sense to me is why the fork came out quite nice but the frame didn't, even though I used the same technique.

  12. #12
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    did you leave it to dry over-night outside? if so the moisture could be the culprit. Good luck with it. If all else fail, buy the rust-oleum that you can apply with a brush.

  13. #13
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    yes, i left it hanging in the garage and it was quite humid i guess last night. at this point i just want the original color bacl

  14. #14
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    here are some pics--it looks good unless directly under bright light (here the flash) and then you can see all the specks. i didnt want to have at it with sandpaper quite yet so i wet the frame and used bounty paper towel










  15. #15
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    The pictures aren't showing.

  16. #16
    Senior Member BikeManDan's Avatar
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    Copy and paste the links, the host doesn't allow hotlinking
    http://images.kodakgallery.com/photo...3512_0_ALB.jpg
    http://images.kodakgallery.com/photo...3512_0_ALB.jpg
    http://images.kodakgallery.com/photo...3512_0_ALB.jpg
    http://images.kodakgallery.com/photo...3512_0_ALB.jpg
    http://images.kodakgallery.com/photo...3512_0_ALB.jpg


    Got some nice speckling going on there. Hey you can think of it this way, in the 80s people tried pretty hard to get their paint to look like that

    I think the sanding between coats and a complete even coat applied and allowed to dry will improve the results

  17. #17
    Dr.Deltron
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    Generally speaking, with a glossy paint job you want that final clear coat to be wet all at the same time so that it flows together smoothly and doesn't have "dusty" areas.

    Flat paint on the other hand...The last coat or two should BE light, almost "dusty" coats. Too much paint and it can get glossy looking. Or worse, cloudy or foggy.

    Another problem you can have in clear. If you spray too late in the day. The sun has gone down and you want to get that last coat on. YAY, Done! You leave the frame, turn out the lights, and go have dinner.
    Next day you go to see the puurrrdy paint. Only to find . . .
    ~RUNS: the paint didn't set enough between coats or you sprayed too much on that spot.
    ~SOLVENT POPPING: the temperature dropped too quickly & too far after the last coat was sprayed.
    The paint "skins over", trapping the solvents in the paint. Which makes little champagne bubbles throughout the paint. Can't sand them out with out going down to the base. It's start all over time.

    So until the pictures load, I would say...
    Your last coat was too heavy and sprayed just as the temp was dropping. But you were using FLAT paint, so it did it's own version of solvent popping. Just it's spots of flattening agent, not bubbles.

    You may be able to scuff (using FINE ScotchBrite pads, not sandPAPER) the finish and shoot a couple more coats of the flat clear and have it smooth out. It also may leave the speckles still visible.
    If that happens either A) live with it. OR B) Carefully sand (with 320 sandPAPER) down to the color it was before you started. Then reclear. OR C) Get out the Jasco paint & epoxy remover, strip the frame down to bare metal, then clean & spray Rustoleum primer, color and clear, using the lessons you learned on the first go. (copy whatever it was you did on the fork)

    Good luck with that. And when I check back, I wanna see pictures! (make them 99k or less for easy posting)

    Dr. D

  18. #18
    Dr.Deltron
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    AAAH, PICTURES!

    Frame IN pictures.

    Looks like it could very well be solvent popping in flat paint.
    Scuf the top of the seat tube, and shoot just that to see if another coat will make the yucky go away.

    If NOooT, then it's A or C.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron View Post
    AAAH, PICTURES!

    Frame IN pictures.

    Looks like it could very well be solvent popping in flat paint.
    Scuf the top of the seat tube, and shoot just that to see if another coat will make the yucky go away.

    If NOooT, then it's A or C.
    Well, under no circumstances am I doing C. I will try option A tonight after work. If that doesn't work, I will just live with it. It don't think it looks too bad, unless you are shinning a light on it and inspecting it from 5 inches away.

  20. #20
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    here is an update on the paint mishap:

    Frame out of box:
    http://images.kodakgallery.com/photo...9412_0_ALB.jpg


    Frame after I got too crazy with the clear coat:

    http://images.kodakgallery.com/photo...5512_0_ALB.jpg


    Frame after I tried to fix the paint job and had the BB and headset installed:

    http://images.kodakgallery.com/photo...4512_0_ALB.jpg

    http://images.kodakgallery.com/photo...4512_0_ALB.jpg

    Frame w/ various parts:

    http://images.kodakgallery.com/photo...4512_0_ALB.jpg

    "Skeleton" of frame w/ old wheelset:

    http://images.kodakgallery.com/photo...4512_0_ALB.jpg

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