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Old 07-23-07, 05:29 PM   #1
skanking biker
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Do I need to grease BB Spindle?

I am installing a sugino rd crankset on the matching BB, which is square tapered. Do I need to grease the BB spindle. Also, I do not have a torque wrench---how snug do i want this?
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Old 07-23-07, 05:47 PM   #2
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The answer to that question has bounced back and forth over the years. I think that the currently suggested practice is to install the crank arms dry.

The torque spec for crank arm bolts is generally around 30 lb/ft. Imagine a 30 lb weight hanging on the end of a foot long wrench. If you're trying to tighten the bolts using a 6" long allen wrench you're force is being applied at about the 3 inch point so you're going to be hard pressed to get to 30 lb/ft.
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Old 07-24-07, 06:11 AM   #3
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I always use grease on any metal/metal contact, but the argument has been made that you can overtighten crankarms with lube. I've never had any trouble.
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Old 07-24-07, 07:07 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by skanking biker View Post
I am installing a sugino rd crankset on the matching BB, which is square tapered. Do I need to grease the BB spindle. Also, I do not have a torque wrench---how snug do i want this?
No lube.

Snug enough not to loosen. Maybe it's time to invest in a torque wrench?
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Old 07-24-07, 07:16 AM   #5
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I vote for lubing the square taper. I have much more control over how tight the contact is, that way, then when it's (apparently) "dry".
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Old 07-24-07, 07:17 AM   #6
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Clean as a whistle but not greasy.
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Old 07-24-07, 09:39 AM   #7
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A light coat of neverseize and a 3/8 drive breaker bar.
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Old 07-24-07, 09:52 AM   #8
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I have yet to see a compelling reason for greasing the spindle. And one for not greasing the spindle. I just don't bother.
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Old 07-24-07, 02:26 PM   #9
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I don't lube it.

Do I need a special tool to get it apart? Yes. But I'd need one anyway.
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Old 07-24-07, 02:57 PM   #10
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I used to put grease on but then I had an old crankset that was always creaky and coming a bit loose, I cleaned it and installed without grease and it quieted down and stopped getting loose. My guess is grease on tapers can encourage movement.
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Old 07-24-07, 03:05 PM   #11
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Grease on bottom bracket shell threads, yes. No grease on the square-tapered portions, however. If you're using a regular-length 8mm allen key with no torque wrench or torque bar, tighten it up as much as you can. You won't be able to strip the bolt unless you have at least 2' of leverage.
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Old 07-24-07, 03:23 PM   #12
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Just looking around a bit.

Shimano BB-6500 - grease them - http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830611829.pdf

Campag Record - since they don't say to grease, I'm assuming dry - http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/722521...om_bracket.pdf

All things being equal, I'll usually follow the mrgr's lead on their own product.
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Old 07-24-07, 06:55 PM   #13
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Question for the non-greasers- I'm curious if you grease cotter pins or not.
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Old 07-24-07, 06:57 PM   #14
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Question for the non-greasers- I'm curious if you grease cotter pins or not.
I haven't worked on a cottered crank in so long that I don't remember.
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Old 07-24-07, 07:27 PM   #15
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And you call yourself "retro"!
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Old 07-24-07, 09:03 PM   #16
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And you call yourself "retro"!
What can I say? At least I knew what it was. Shouldn't that count for something?
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Old 07-24-07, 09:28 PM   #17
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Question for the non-greasers- I'm curious if you grease cotter pins or not.
Definitely grease the cotters, but keep the bore and spindle as clean as possible.

The following is from my cotter press page.
-----------------------------------------------------------

Installed properly, there should be enough friction between the spindle and bore to eliminate movement. The cotter will only be loaded in compression, evenly across the face, and be easily removed.

Without this friction, the only thing resisting movement will be the relatively soft cotter, loaded in shear. When you see grooves across the cotter face, either the cotter wasn't tight enough, there was grease between the spindle and the bore or both.

1. Avoid chromed spindles. Sandblasting or sandpaper can help if you don't have a choice.

2. Make sure spindle and spindle bore are clean and dry.

3. Use anti-seize or grease on cotter.

4. Install FIRMLY (Preferably with a cotter press, but lacking one, a hammer)
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Old 07-25-07, 09:35 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by neil0502 View Post
Shimano BB-6500 - grease them -
I don't think that's applicable. BB-6500 is Octalink.

UN-26 Service Instructions say, "Apply grease to the bottom bracket before installing it." but that's in the section about installing it into the frame. No word in the section about installing the crank.
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Old 07-25-07, 10:12 AM   #19
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I don't think that's applicable. BB-6500 is Octalink.

UN-26 Service Instructions say, "Apply grease to the bottom bracket before installing it." but that's in the section about installing it into the frame. No word in the section about installing the crank.
Hmm. In looking at the PDF to which I provided a link, on the bottom right corner of the page is an illustration that uses four arrows to indicate what to grease: both sets of threads AND the tapers is what I read.

Do you read it differently?

But ... UN-25, UN-74, seem ambiguous:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shimano
Apply grease to the bottom bracket before installing it.
No diagram.
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Old 07-25-07, 11:40 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by neil0502 View Post
Hmm. In looking at the PDF to which I provided a link, on the bottom right corner of the page is an illustration that uses four arrows to indicate what to grease: both sets of threads AND the tapers is what I read.

Do you read it differently?

But ... UN-25, UN-74, seem ambiguous:


No diagram.
It is not square taper. It is a splined octalink BB and should be greased, different type of BB. Square taper - no grease
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Old 07-25-07, 12:08 PM   #21
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It is not square taper. It is a splined octalink BB and should be greased, different type of BB. Square taper - no grease

Correct
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