Can't get my gears to shift smoothly mid cassette, please help!
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Can't get my gears to shift smoothly mid cassette, please help!
Hi everyone, so im having problems with my shifting.
Background info:
I have a 9 year old road bike, with a sora groupset.
I had it fully serviced recently by a bike mechanic, all new inner cables, new cassette, new chain, all bearings lubes, gears indexed and brakes adjusted wheels true, bearings greased etc etc, kept the front chain rings as is.
Now heres the problem the chain tends to jump between 2 sprockets ( usually the 2nd and 3rd largest sprocket ). Okay so i adjust the barrel adjustor to fix the problem, those gears then work perfectly, then the problem happens further down the cassette for example it starts jumping between the 5th and 6th sprocket. Confused. I adjusted it again to fix the problem.
I start from the largest sprocket and try the gears again, it happens again between the 2nd and 3rd sprocket.
I thought maybe its cause of a worn freehub, i swap my cassette on a new wheel and try it on my bike, the problem persists.
i thought maybe its the mech hanger is bent, i bought a brand new mech hanger, still dosent fix the problem.
Now im thinking maybe its the derailleur? If i get a brand new mech will it fix the problem? If it dosent can anyone else suggest what i can do, ive essential bought a brand new groupset at this point and getting worried about how much im spending. The parts ive bought are now worth more then the frame itself!
Background info:
I have a 9 year old road bike, with a sora groupset.
I had it fully serviced recently by a bike mechanic, all new inner cables, new cassette, new chain, all bearings lubes, gears indexed and brakes adjusted wheels true, bearings greased etc etc, kept the front chain rings as is.
Now heres the problem the chain tends to jump between 2 sprockets ( usually the 2nd and 3rd largest sprocket ). Okay so i adjust the barrel adjustor to fix the problem, those gears then work perfectly, then the problem happens further down the cassette for example it starts jumping between the 5th and 6th sprocket. Confused. I adjusted it again to fix the problem.
I start from the largest sprocket and try the gears again, it happens again between the 2nd and 3rd sprocket.
I thought maybe its cause of a worn freehub, i swap my cassette on a new wheel and try it on my bike, the problem persists.
i thought maybe its the mech hanger is bent, i bought a brand new mech hanger, still dosent fix the problem.
Now im thinking maybe its the derailleur? If i get a brand new mech will it fix the problem? If it dosent can anyone else suggest what i can do, ive essential bought a brand new groupset at this point and getting worried about how much im spending. The parts ive bought are now worth more then the frame itself!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South shore, L.I., NY
Posts: 6,857
Bikes: Flyxii FR322, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3221 Post(s)
Liked 2,048 Times
in
1,170 Posts
You mention "new inner cables", but don't mention cable housings. I hope the mechanic replaced those as well, because dirt in the housing is often the reason for lag and poor shifts.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,681
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 441 Times
in
314 Posts
Just replacing the mech hanger is not sufficient. You now have to have the new mech hanger checked for alignment since it could still be mis-aligned.
Likes For masi61:
#4
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,949
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6177 Post(s)
Liked 4,794 Times
in
3,306 Posts
When I once had the issues you described it was the cable binding randomly at times. When I finally found the cause a couple weeks later, it turned out to be the cables cutting into the steel of my BB shell where they ran bare around it as many did in the vintage days. A cable guide solved it. Perhaps your cable guide on the BB is worn out.
For sure I'd go back and inquire with the mechanic as to what else they recommend. Besides you, they know the most about your specific bicycle and what was done to it.
For sure I'd go back and inquire with the mechanic as to what else they recommend. Besides you, they know the most about your specific bicycle and what was done to it.
Likes For Iride01:
#5
Newbie
More often then not anything mid cassette is an alignment problem. As said above even a new hanger needs to be squared to your bike. Just because the hanger is strait doesn't mean its square to the cassette. good old manufacturing and paint tolerance.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 4,083
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2332 Post(s)
Liked 2,097 Times
in
1,314 Posts
Went thru this myself recently. The derailleur hanger was loose. After tightening, still some shifting issues. I checked the hanger alignment and sure enough it was off. Bent it. Readjusted the etap and bingo, back in business. Sounds like you have a hanger issue
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Also, its worth nothing that i have crashed my bike before and landed on the rear mech, could this have totally damaged the mech to a point where its easier just to replace it?
#8
Mother Nature's Son
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sussex County, Delaware
Posts: 3,107
Bikes: 2014 Orbea Avant MD30, 2004 Airborne Zeppelin TI, 2003 Lemond Poprad, 2001 Lemond Tourmalet, 2014? Soma Smoothie
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 852 Post(s)
Liked 1,433 Times
in
815 Posts
If the bike was like that immediately after the tune up, take it back to the mechanic and tell them the issue. They should take at least take a look at it with no charge. If it is a minor thing like straightening the hanger, again, there should be no charge. That is my opinion, and I know the shops I have done business with in my area would handle it that way. If they did not replace the housing, pretty sure they will not do that just for the price of the housing, but I would certainly be looking for a bit of a break on the cost. Of course, if you did not want the housing replaced, and it turns out that is the problem, that is on you.
#9
Just Pedaling
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: US West Coast
Posts: 998
Bikes: YEP!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 328 Post(s)
Liked 516 Times
in
343 Posts
I like throwing parts at problems only because I enjoy tinkering on my bikes. If the cable housings weren't replaced with the cables, I'd start there. Then the BB guide, and then the hanger alignment. Good luck.
#10
Senior Member
Hi everyone, so im having problems with my shifting.
Background info:
I have a 9 year old road bike, with a sora groupset.
I had it fully serviced recently by a bike mechanic, all new inner cables, new cassette, new chain, all bearings lubes, gears indexed and brakes adjusted wheels true, bearings greased etc etc, kept the front chain rings as is.
Now heres the problem the chain tends to jump between 2 sprockets ( usually the 2nd and 3rd largest sprocket ). Okay so i adjust the barrel adjustor to fix the problem, those gears then work perfectly, then the problem happens further down the cassette for example it starts jumping between the 5th and 6th sprocket. Confused. I adjusted it again to fix the problem.
I start from the largest sprocket and try the gears again, it happens again between the 2nd and 3rd sprocket.
I thought maybe its cause of a worn freehub, i swap my cassette on a new wheel and try it on my bike, the problem persists.
i thought maybe its the mech hanger is bent, i bought a brand new mech hanger, still dosent fix the problem.
Now im thinking maybe its the derailleur? If i get a brand new mech will it fix the problem? If it dosent can anyone else suggest what i can do, ive essential bought a brand new groupset at this point and getting worried about how much im spending. The parts ive bought are now worth more then the frame itself!
Background info:
I have a 9 year old road bike, with a sora groupset.
I had it fully serviced recently by a bike mechanic, all new inner cables, new cassette, new chain, all bearings lubes, gears indexed and brakes adjusted wheels true, bearings greased etc etc, kept the front chain rings as is.
Now heres the problem the chain tends to jump between 2 sprockets ( usually the 2nd and 3rd largest sprocket ). Okay so i adjust the barrel adjustor to fix the problem, those gears then work perfectly, then the problem happens further down the cassette for example it starts jumping between the 5th and 6th sprocket. Confused. I adjusted it again to fix the problem.
I start from the largest sprocket and try the gears again, it happens again between the 2nd and 3rd sprocket.
I thought maybe its cause of a worn freehub, i swap my cassette on a new wheel and try it on my bike, the problem persists.
i thought maybe its the mech hanger is bent, i bought a brand new mech hanger, still dosent fix the problem.
Now im thinking maybe its the derailleur? If i get a brand new mech will it fix the problem? If it dosent can anyone else suggest what i can do, ive essential bought a brand new groupset at this point and getting worried about how much im spending. The parts ive bought are now worth more then the frame itself!
The others mentioned that new cables might not run smoothly in old housings. That's valid.
Some mentioned that the new hanger might not be the issue if the mounting point on the frame that takes the hanger is where there is a bend. The hanger might be fine but the hanger mount on the frame might be tweaked.
And finally the elephant in the room to me..... It's quite possible that the middle speed cogs are badly worn and that is why it doesn't want to shift through those cogs smoothly but it does shift smoothly on the cogs to either side of the most used cogs. This may or may not be coupled with a badly worn "stretched" chain. Did you check the chain with a ruler or stretch gauge for wear?
Freehub play is also easily felt and compared. It's normal to have a slight bit of play in the freehub bearings. But it will be minimal and barely feelable on a good freehub. If the freehubs on the old and new wheels both felt pretty well the same then it isn't the freehub.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times
in
92 Posts
...
And finally the elephant in the room to me..... It's quite possible that the middle speed cogs are badly worn and that is why it doesn't want to shift through those cogs smoothly but it does shift smoothly on the cogs to either side of the most used cogs. This may or may not be coupled with a badly worn "stretched" chain. Did you check the chain with a ruler or stretch gauge for wear?
...
And finally the elephant in the room to me..... It's quite possible that the middle speed cogs are badly worn and that is why it doesn't want to shift through those cogs smoothly but it does shift smoothly on the cogs to either side of the most used cogs. This may or may not be coupled with a badly worn "stretched" chain. Did you check the chain with a ruler or stretch gauge for wear?
...
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,661
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 836 Post(s)
Liked 1,058 Times
in
742 Posts
Possibly. Check the pivot points that may have some road rash on them. This can deform the parts that move and sometimes causes friction in the pivot action. Also maybe it may have caused some sloppiness in the derailleur in other ways. Also, any new hanger should be checked for alignment after mounting. Tolerances for the dropout-hanger interface are not super tight for many bikes so need to be checked.
Last edited by Crankycrank; 05-29-22 at 03:55 PM.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
No. Problems (noise) that start mid or larger cassettes and get worse as you shift to larger cogs are a hanger alignment problem. Noises that only happen in the middle cogs are more often wear related or problems w/ cables/housing. If the hanger is bent in as it would be from a fall the noise can only get worse as you move to larger cogs.
#14
Newbie
No. Problems (noise) that start mid or larger cassettes and get worse as you shift to larger cogs are a hanger alignment problem. Noises that only happen in the middle cogs are more often wear related or problems w/ cables/housing. If the hanger is bent in as it would be from a fall the noise can only get worse as you move to larger cogs.
Last edited by Jheitt; 05-30-22 at 11:10 PM.
#15
Newbie
Hanger alignment is such an easy and quick check to do, and 90% of the time that's what it is.
Once the hanger is aligned, the barrel adjusting bit takes 10 seconds to do and you wonder why you didn't align it first of all.
One of the most useful tools I have ever bought for the bike.
Once the hanger is aligned, the barrel adjusting bit takes 10 seconds to do and you wonder why you didn't align it first of all.
One of the most useful tools I have ever bought for the bike.
Likes For Tawraste666:
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
I have 10-51 on 3 different bikes. when a hanger is out ( or derailleur cage rivets for that matter ) its always 2-3 cogs mid cassette that act up, just as the OP described i can move it around with cable tension. it doesn't get worse the higher you go. Up high and down low the limit screws keep things in check. I've ruined cages and not had a hanger bend enough that it would act as you have described. Hanger alignment issues for me have always been more of a twist then a bend.
If you still don't get this I'll provide a drawing.
#17
Newbie
I completely understand everything you are saying. My point is hanger problems are not generally in or out, they are side to side in my experience so the hanger sites toed out or in so to speak.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
In/out, side to side...same thing. Nearly all hanger problems are a result of crashing or dropping the bike on the derailleur side. This naturally pushes the derailleur towards the wheel. Even if this results in the derailleur being 'twisted' a bit the same is still true. The problem can only get worse as you shift to larger cogs. Trust me, I fix this problem every damn day. My most used specialty tool is my HAG by a long shot.
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
In/out, side to side...same thing. Nearly all hanger problems are a result of crashing or dropping the bike on the derailleur side. This naturally pushes the derailleur towards the wheel. Even if this results in the derailleur being 'twisted' a bit the same is still true. The problem can only get worse as you shift to larger cogs. Trust me, I fix this problem every damn day. My most used specialty tool is my HAG by a long shot.