ms.gio

Will there be a strength problem if I were to build up rear wheel as radial on the non-drive side and 2x on the drive side? I was told that I wouldn't have to worry for I don't weigh much (120 lbs). Would it be a wise idea to build up a rear wheel this way? BTW, I'm building the front wheel solely as radial.

The rim: Deep V
The hub: Formula

Thanks for your help.

FlatFender

id go 3x

ms.gio

I was told to either build it up as 2x or 3x. 2x came up because I don't weigh much.

FlatFender

the only thing that worries me, is not your weight, but the amount you could torque the rear wheel
how much is 3x gonna add weight wise? cant be more than a few grams
how many holes is the hub?

ms.gio

The hub has 32 holes.

Bob Dopolina 

You could probably get away with 2 cross but 3x would be a certainty. If you are concerned about the few grams (really only a few) then use double butted spokes.

ms.gio

In regard to strength, how much stronger is 3x to 2x?

urbanknight

Either will work with you, especially with such a bomproof rim, but I think the 3X will only be 5-10 grams more than 2X considering it's just the drive side. At your weight, though, you could get away with far less spokes, so do what you like. I was your weight when I was a teen, and all of my wheels were overbuilt for me, including 28h 2x rear/radial front with Deep V rims.

OneTinSloth

the number one question that should be asked before anyone says anything about what lacing pattern should be used is: "WHAT IS THE WHEEL GOING TO BE USED FOR?" fixed gear? road? mountain? race-only? commuter? training/daily rider?

if it's a wheel that is going to need to be durable and handle the rigors of daily riding, i would not recommend lacing it in this way. i don't care if you only weigh 120lbs, it doesn't matter if you're going to be rolling over potholes and sewer grates and hopping up curbs.

edit: speaking as someone who, 4 years ago, weighed 120lbs, and rode a 3x drive/radial non rear wheel they do not last for daily riding. and just about every other wheel i've seen that was built this way has not lasted very long at all. the problem is that it can be difficult to maintain proper tension and dish between the two sides. they work alright for race-day only wheels, but they can be finicky.

ms.gio

This wheel set would be used primarily for commuting on my fixed gear bike. I realized that I did wrong when I asked to get them built this way on my ride home. So, there is when I realized that I made a stupid mistake. I'll take the blame there.

Retro Grouch 

2 cross vs. 3 cross - Two conflicting issues.

The first is where the spokes leave the hub. The closer to a tangent that the spokes leave the hub, the more hub flange material they have to pull against. That makes it stronger.

The second is where the spoke meets the rim. You'd like them to meet radially. If the angle is too great it puts too much stress on the spokes where they enter the nipple.

Obviously, you can't have a spoke that's a tangent at the hub and radial where it enters the rim. For typically sized road bike hubs and rims, 3 cross is usually the best compromise for 32 and 36 spoke wheels. 2 cross generally works better for 24 and 28 spoke wheels. Super big flange hubs and rims with small ERD's can change that recommendation.