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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 07-27-07, 06:24 PM   #1
MartyZ
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need new frame

Well, here is the story. I spent over $500 in the last 6 months restoring my centurion, just finishing up the wheels. I put all 105 components accept the brifters(had to use SORA 7spd). As i'm adjusting the rear derailler I notice a small bend in the right seatstay. Take it to the local shop and the guy shows me how both my rear triangles are messed up beyond repair. I weigh 280lbs which means this bike won't last me long with that kind of damage.

I need to find a new frameset that doesn't cost more than $300, any ideas. My current frame is 60mm steel whith 126mm rear spacing and a 28.8mm seat tube. I don't mind changing the rear axle and putting spacers but a new front derailler and headset in addition to the frame will break the bank.

I need help in the NJ area. Does anyone know were I can get an old steel frame that is in decent condition or maybe a place that will replace both seatstays for under $150?


Thanks.
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Old 07-27-07, 06:36 PM   #2
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Try Nashbar. They have new road frames for at or less than you want to spend and they are well made and good bargains.
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Old 07-27-07, 07:24 PM   #3
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I was looking for a quality 59cm steel frame on ebay and craigslist. Saw some decent 80's steel for about $100. Ended up finding an excellent 1988 quad-butted Fuji Roubaix frame on a thrift shop bike (126mm rear dropouts). Just got another bike to play with from a neighbor at a yard sale (1979 Miyata with dura ace and campy).

$500 seems like alot to put into an old Centurian, but I expect you can move all of that over to another bike frame.
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Old 07-27-07, 09:51 PM   #4
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It is a sad day when a Centurion bites the dust.
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Old 07-28-07, 07:31 AM   #5
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MartyZ, try the Classic & Vintage forum.

You'll find people there that may know where to find a compatible frame in good shape, or have one they are willing to let go at a good price.

There are a few that flip bikes/frames in the Mid-Atlantic states that hang out there.
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Old 07-28-07, 08:57 AM   #6
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if you can wrangle an extra $100 you could always go with a Surly.
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Old 07-28-07, 12:02 PM   #7
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OK, I found a 10spd ROSS on craigslist for $55, whole bike. It appears to be a 61cm or 62cm (stand-over height is 34" - 35"). I'm going to go look at it tomorrow, I can measure everything accept for the BB, How can I tell from the outside what type of BB, I need a 68mm english?

Thansk.
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Old 07-28-07, 02:35 PM   #8
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Is a ROSS frame that bad? Not worth $55?
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Old 07-28-07, 02:46 PM   #9
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Look here MartyZ: http://www.chucksbikes.com/store/frames.htm

Chucksbikes has a fairly good rep around here. Especially for U.S -> Canada mail orders.
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Old 07-28-07, 08:10 PM   #10
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Look here MartyZ: http://www.chucksbikes.com/store/frames.htm

Chucksbikes has a fairly good rep around here. Especially for U.S -> Canada mail orders.
+1 for Chucksbikes

Built up this 61 cm frame last winter into a cheap ~18-19 lb bike:
http://www.chucksbikes.com/store/fr040.htm

I'd ask if it would be ok for a 280 lb guy. Supposed to be the same frame as used in the 2004 Fuji Roubaix. The 61cm is measured to the top of the seat tube. The top tube is 59cm, which turned out to be a bit long for me (using 90mm stem now). Chucksbikes also supplied good inexpensive two bolt seatpost, handlebars, and stem. It has a 130mm rear dropout so your 126mm rear wheel will need some extra washers, and possibly a longer axle, but the frame would be ready for an 8-9-10 speed wheel someday.

Or you should be able to find a quality Japanese steel frame & fork from the 1980's for around $100 more or less, used, online. My good steel frame bikes built up to about 22 pounds, and cost less than $50 at yard sales and thrift shops. If you see a used bike with Shimano Dura Ace, Ultegra, 600, 105, or Campy hardware the frame is likely to be a good one.

Avoid most cheap Ross bikes! Old low-end steel bikes have thick heavy straight gauge steel tubing. Quality steel frames used stronger steel (usually Cro-Mo), which can be made thinner and lighter. The good tubing is butted (tapered, double triple or quad butted, sometimes "channeled"). Newer steel, like Reynolds 853, "air hardens" and makes strong joints without the lugs and brazed joints used on the better older steel frames. Cheap bikes may have mild steel instead of forged steel dropouts.
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