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Old 07-28-07, 08:30 PM   #1
faronmd
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Frame Paint Removal

Hi,

I am currently overhauling a mountain bike and I am at the process of frame paint. My goal is to either:

1. Remove all paint and leave the frame with the bare metal (which looks pretty cool) and add a protective finish, or
2. Repaint the frame.

Through trial and error, I have learned the following:

-Removing ALL paint from the frame with Steel Wool will take forever. Thinking of trying a paint removal chemical.
- I read that by just making the existing paint rough (removing finish) with the steel wool will help new paint hold better. Not sure if that is accurate.

Any insights on either of my goals above would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-28-07, 08:49 PM   #2
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I actually just received an email from a powder coating company and they recommended a paint stripper called Circa1830 found at home Depot. He also said "Do not" have it sand blasted for powder coating. I wanted to add this for anyone who may stumble upon this thread.
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Old 07-28-07, 09:16 PM   #3
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I actually just received an email from a powder coating company and they recommended a paint stripper called Circa1830 found at home Depot. He also said "Do not" have it sand blasted for powder coating. I wanted to add this for anyone who may stumble upon this thread.

And, did you get a reason for them saying no to sandblasted? If you want to nitpick with what we're "blasting" with, i agree. But no blasting with anything?

This is not some deranged, i'm high on vicodin operator post. Many, many people have done this already.
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Old 07-28-07, 09:21 PM   #4
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I guess that was just their preference for powdercoating. Just FYI I thought I'd pass along. I'm not disagreeing with sandblasting.
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Old 07-28-07, 09:43 PM   #5
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thats odd.... no sandblasting?
huh.... i wonder why?
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Old 07-29-07, 11:34 AM   #6
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yeah I know. I'll ask them. Stand By.
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Old 07-29-07, 11:38 AM   #7
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There's a product at WalMart called "Aircraft Remover". Cheap, spraycan, and does a better job than most other strippers I've tried (though I have not tried Circa1830).

You'll find it in the automotive dept.
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Old 07-29-07, 01:08 PM   #8
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I've rattlecanned my bike several ties but never again. The chaepest you are going to get away with is around $50 when all is said and done. And rattlecan paint will alwys be very soft.

If you have a steel bike, you have to have it sandblasted, actually bead blasted, to get a rust-free surface. I tried chemical stripping twice, followed by hand sanding of the bare metal and each time, little rust spots came back until I had it bead blasted.

I think the recommendation against sandblasting comes from taking the frame to someone that hasn't blasted thin wall tubing before, they can get overly aggressive and go right through a tube. But anyone that has done aviation beadblasting can surely do it right.

Just had my frame bead blasted and powder coated for $100, will never rattle can again.
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Old 07-29-07, 02:44 PM   #9
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Dr. Deltron says he has the frames he paints blasted with #60 mesh sand. He's been painting bikes for 30 years, so I think he knows what he's talking about.

I used a power sander and wire wheels on the last frame I painted. There are places those tools won't reach and I used stripper there. You have to get all the rust off or it's going to come back. Bare steel begins to rust immediately when it's exposed t the air, so you have to get primer on it right away. Just because you can't see the rust doesn't mean it's not there.

Rattle can paint is usually lacquer and lacquer is nor durable enough for bicycles. Dupli-Color wheel paint is enamel, and I may try it on a bike frame. There is also an enamel clearcoat for it.

I just painted my Carlton with 2 part urethane auto paint. The cost of the materials alone was $100 and I bought quarts. It's flat paint with no clearcoat. The paint is extremely hazardous to your health if you don't have the right protective equipment. I don't, so I'm not going to push my luck and do it again.

There are pictures of my Carlton here if you're interested:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/559341390NROHtj
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Old 07-29-07, 05:05 PM   #10
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When you expose bare metal, by whatever method, the oxidization process is always going to immediately begin. There's a product called "metal prep" they sell at auto parts stores that you can treat the bare metal with, and it will stop the oxidization long enough to get a finish applied.
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Old 07-29-07, 05:09 PM   #11
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I use use Metal Prep. It etches the surface and that makes the primer adhere better.
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Old 07-30-07, 11:50 AM   #12
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To correct the information I was given, it is called Circa 1850 (not 1830) Heavy Body Paint and Varnish Remover. sorry for the misinformation.
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Old 07-30-07, 11:53 AM   #13
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So, to continue this thread, anyone try just removing all paint from the frame and leaving it bare metal? Once I got it down to bare metal, I thought is looked kinda cool once I took some thin steel wool to polish it. I'm sure I would need some sort of coating to stop future rusting and this so called 'oxidization'. Haven't seen any of that happening yet.
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Old 07-30-07, 12:26 PM   #14
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Buddy of mine just re-did his frame. Had it sandblasted and then powder coated. Total was about $150 and it came out sweet looking.
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Old 07-30-07, 12:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
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So, to continue this thread, anyone try just removing all paint from the frame and leaving it bare metal? Once I got it down to bare metal, I thought is looked kinda cool once I took some thin steel wool to polish it. I'm sure I would need some sort of coating to stop future rusting and this so called 'oxidization'. Haven't seen any of that happening yet.
You might want to try many coats of Clear Coat.....

As I recall Nova Scotia is pretty near salt water (I once did a ocean swim as part of the Pictou Lobster Carnival/celbrartion/fest) so I think you would want to get some thing on it fast.
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Old 07-30-07, 02:16 PM   #16
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yeah true. Did you enjoy Nova Scotia?
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Old 07-30-07, 04:16 PM   #17
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yeah true. Did you enjoy Nova Scotia?
It was a short time, a long time ago, but it was beautiful and great people., and local lass took a shine to me (and I like the traditional music I grew up listening to I think it was Don Tremaine on CBC (got canadian tv better than US tv ))

I've actually spent a lot more time in Newfoundland (looking for icebergs with the Coast Guard...Ice Patrol)
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Old 07-30-07, 04:24 PM   #18
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thats cool, I am actually from Newfoundland.
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Old 07-30-07, 04:30 PM   #19
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Dr. Deltron says he has the frames he paints blasted with #60 mesh sand. He's been painting bikes for 30 years, so I think he knows what he's talking about.
Thanks DirtDrop!
Just to clarify, I use a combination of chemical stripper & #60 mesh sand blasting.
First the chemical to get rid of the brunt of the old paint. Then blast the rusty spots and all the nooks & crannies. The lightly blast the rest of the frame to give the paint some "tooth".
Just like ceratin PX10 is going through right now.

Powdercoating should ONLY be removed with chemical stripper. Then detailed with sandblasting.
If you try to JUST sandblast powdercoat, you WILL damage your frame!~

As for the powdercoater not wanting the frame blasted is because it starts to rust almost immediately.
So by the time you go from the blaster to the powdercoater, rust has already started forming. And that makes for a lousy PC job.
They may do it for you, so that the frame goes from the blasting cabinet to the powder app to the oven.
Or they may have some other treatment that they use, that is complicated by blasting.
But you'll have to ask the PCer.
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Old 08-01-07, 10:11 AM   #20
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great info, thanks for the replies.
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Old 08-01-07, 10:33 AM   #21
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On thin walled tubing in either Aluminum or Steel, It is possible to damage the material by using sand as a media. Most decent shops use either glass bead or walnut shell. This will completely remove all of the old finish without changing the temper of the metal.
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Old 08-01-07, 12:41 PM   #22
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On thin walled tubing in either Aluminum or Steel, It is possible to damage the material by using sand as a media. Most decent shops use either glass bead or walnut shell. This will completely remove all of the old finish without changing the temper of the metal.
I guess I should have sent my PX10 to a decent shop.
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Old 08-01-07, 01:37 PM   #23
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That's your call. I'm just telling you what I would do. No offense was intended. Media blasting has come a long way from just "sand" and uses materials that remove paint without being abrasive to the substrate or causing heat damage resulting from the friction created by sand. I have heard of Aluminum bikes being ruined due to thinning of the tubes - careless blast technician. Some people say "sand blasting" as a generic term for media blasting. I was just trying to clarify - and caution others that sand can damage thin walled tubing. A little care can prevent a nasty outcome.
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Old 08-01-07, 02:15 PM   #24
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You insulted Dr. Deltron, not me.
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Old 08-01-07, 02:48 PM   #25
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I've insulted no-one and explained myself clearly. You are free to disagree and obvioulsy do. Fair enough. When my frame gets stripped and repainted this fall, I don't mind taking the extra precautions. I was just trying to share a little information that I thought would be helpfull to those considering this.
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