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Old 08-02-07, 10:28 AM   #1
Toastytofu
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chain slap on a road bike.

so i'm thinking about shortening my road bike chain due to excessive slap-age. does anyone think this is a bad idea?

oh and while im here, the guy i ride with uses wd-40 as chain lube... i say bad idea, but i don't know why. anybody agree with me?
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Old 08-02-07, 11:37 AM   #2
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I don't know anything about changing the length of chains, so hopefully someone else with chime in about that...

As for WD-40, if I'm not mistaken (and if I am, someone will correct me), it can be used in a pinch as a degreaser, but is not a lubricant. Do a search of this forum, I think there has been a lot of debate on using WD-40 on chains...
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Old 08-02-07, 11:50 AM   #3
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No debate. WD-40 sucks as a chain lube.
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Old 08-02-07, 11:53 AM   #4
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Less bunny hopping would reduce your chain slappage, but you could try removing one link as long as you NEVER EVER cross chain. I don't think that would be all that much help, though, unless your chain is too long at the moment.
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Old 08-02-07, 11:54 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toastytofu View Post
so i'm thinking about shortening my road bike chain due to excessive slap-age. does anyone think this is a bad idea?

oh and while im here, the guy i ride with uses wd-40 as chain lube... i say bad idea, but i don't know why. anybody agree with me?
Wd-40 is not a chain lube.

And if you're thinking of shortening the chain. Just make sure it isn't the right size already. Do procedure below.

Quote:
The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that they could be connected (outer link meets inner link), then make the chain one complete link (one inch) longer than that. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length.
You'll have to accept chain slap on some gear combos, especially on triples. Solution is to not stop pedalling.
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Old 08-02-07, 12:13 PM   #6
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Make sure the B screw is adjusted properly to add tension to the chain.
Buy a stick-on chain stay protector
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Old 08-02-07, 02:01 PM   #7
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The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that they could be connected (outer link meets inner link), then make the chain one complete link (one inch) longer than that. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length.


I've gone and checked the length of chain that came with two new major brand bikes (Cannondale, Felt), both chains were several links longer than this method would dictate.

-Sheldon "rather trust the manufacturer" Brown

Last edited by Cyclologist; 08-02-07 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 08-02-07, 02:15 PM   #8
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thanks, alot.
the procedure above almost elminated chain-slappage and nothing else was harmed.

as for wd-40... it's his bike. not my problem. =)
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Old 08-02-07, 02:59 PM   #9
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I've gone and checked the length of chain that came with two new major brand bikes (Cannondale, Felt), both chains were several links longer than this method would dictate.

-Sheldon "rather trust the manufacturer" Brown
There are a couple of "manufacturer suggested" methods out there: SRAM (road) states the "big + big + 1" method above, but then adds 2 links (they actually call it "big + big + 2"); Shimano states vertical RD gear position (i.e. the 2 rollers aligned on top of each other) for big chainring + small cog combo. The SRAM method will of course give you longer than the straight big+big method; the Shimano method may or may not give longer, depending on what the largest cog looks like.
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