Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Threadless forks and stems....???

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Threadless forks and stems....???

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-09-07, 08:49 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
CrossChain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,023
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Threadless forks and stems....???

I'm looking to buy at a nice, never built-up frame & fork. Steel frame, 1 inch threadless fork, takes a 1 inch conventional headset. Will I be able to use a "traditional", one-piece quilled stem (Nitto Technomic in this case)? Thanks.
CrossChain is offline  
Old 08-09-07, 08:51 PM
  #2  
Roadie
 
ninjaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 934
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
nope!
ninjaman is offline  
Old 08-09-07, 08:53 PM
  #3  
Roadie
 
ninjaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 934
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
quill stems are also commonly referred to as "threaded"
ninjaman is offline  
Old 08-10-07, 06:29 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times in 742 Posts
The above answers are correct. You have to use a threadless stem.

There have been questions in the past about threading the steerer on a threadless fork and the overwhelming consensus is DON'T do it. Starting threads (not just extending existing ones) is very difficult to do properly and many threadless steerers don't have enough wall thickness to safely take threading.
HillRider is offline  
Old 08-10-07, 07:17 AM
  #5  
A little North of Hell
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,892
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 71 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by CrossChain
I'm looking to buy at a nice, never built-up frame & fork. Steel frame, 1 inch threadless fork, takes a 1 inch conventional headset. Will I be able to use a "traditional", one-piece quilled stem (Nitto Technomic in this case)? Thanks.
You could, but why would you want to?
These are very hard to find in 1"
https://www.bikeparts.com/search_resu...p?ID=BPC312020
Easton makes something similar, called the "BearTrap".
Soil_Sampler is offline  
Old 08-10-07, 09:11 AM
  #6  
Light Makes Right
 
GV27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Green Mountain, Colorado
Posts: 1,520

Bikes: Gianni Motta Criterium, Dean Hardtail

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
All answers above are correct.

Contrary to popular belief, it's not the cap and star-nut that holds the headset together in a threadless setup. It's actually the stem. The cap and star nut are really just used to set the pre-load and as a safety device - if the stem loosens up the cap backs it up and keeps the bars coming off in your hands. I've actually seen serious weight-weenies take off the cap and drive the star nut down and out after setting it up. Works just fine. Not very smart, but it works.

OTOH, if you used a quill step you wouldn't have the cap or the stem holding things together.
GV27 is offline  
Old 08-16-07, 04:18 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Iowegian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Boulder, Colo
Posts: 1,801
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked 14 Times in 12 Posts
I was going to ask the same thing and yes, I understand how a fork is held with a threadless setup.

To answer the obvious question, my problem is that I bought a nice frame with threadless fork for cheap (or so I thought...) only to find the fork had been cut too short. There is almost room for the stem but either I need to find a 'shorter' stem and/or shorter stack height headset or take my chances that the stem will hold with the steerer cut 1 cm too short.

Then I thought of the myriad of quill stems I have lying around. Assuming I used a separate collar for the headset, would the quill stem fit and would the steerer be strong enough for the expansion bolt? I'm pretty sure Sheldon has a bike with an ad-hoc collar so the stem can be adjusted independently of the headset. Unfortunately, the site seems to be down at the moment.
Iowegian is offline  
Old 08-16-07, 05:33 PM
  #8  
Technoweenie
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 35

Bikes: Giant CFR1, KHS Team Soft-tail, Peugot frankenstein psycho-cross

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I did "sucessfully" mate a quill stem to a threadless fork and headset system. I'm not sure I should admit to it, though, because it probably wasn't as safe as it needed to be and it was on my father-in-law's bike. Like Iowegian, I was trying to use parts I already had (threadless fork and headset) and he wanted one of those funky suspension stems. So I gave it a shot. I used a seat collar clamp on the steer tube.

I cut the steerer down to fit the clamp like you would when measuring for the typical threadless system, leaving space between the top of the steerer tube and the bottom of the lip of the clamp. I used the star nut and cap to set the headset bearing tension and then knocked the star nut out the bottom of the steer tube so I could put the quill stem in. When I got the headset tensioned, I tighten the seat clamp to the steer tube just like you'd tighten a threadless stem. The quill stem fit and held very nicely to steer tube, which I put in as far as I could.

I figured that even if the seat clamp came loose, the fork would get loosy-goosy but my F-I-L would still be able to steer and control the bike. he and I both rode that bike regularly for a year without a problem. But I decided it was too questionable a setup, and I knew his local LBS wouldn't touch the thing should he need an adjustment if I wasn't available, so I switched to a conventional threaded fork. And honestly, if I had had a two bolt clamp like a threadless stem, or simply a wider clamp to grab more of the steer tube, it would probably still be that way.

And no, I wasn't trying to off my F-I-L; I kinda like the guy.
Jack's mate is offline  
Old 08-16-07, 05:40 PM
  #9  
Mr. Dopolina
 
Bob Dopolina's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Taiwan
Posts: 10,217

Bikes: KUUPAS, Simpson VR

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Liked 117 Times in 41 Posts
Originally Posted by Iowegian
To answer the obvious question, my problem is that I bought a nice frame with threadless fork for cheap (or so I thought...) only to find the fork had been cut too short. There is almost room for the stem but either I need to find a 'shorter' stem and/or shorter stack height headset or take my chances that the stem will hold with the steerer cut 1 cm too short.
The 1" to 1/1/8" converter might be of use here. Are you familiar with these? It is basically a quill set-up for threadless that slides into the 1" steerer and then flares out to 1 1/8" at the top, allowing you to use a 1 1/8" stem. This would also give you the extra 1cm you are looking for.

Anyone have any thought on this?
Bob Dopolina is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.