Removing crank without a crank puller
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Removing crank without a crank puller
Has anyone been able to do this. I am thinking of using a candle to heat the crank so the metal of the arm expands and then hammer it off. It is a square taper.
#2
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A crank puller is like 10 bucks.
I don't think a candle's gonna cut it. Perhaps a torch?
Either way, you might as well use a hack saw - you're gonna ruin the crank or bottom bracket or both anyway......
I don't think a candle's gonna cut it. Perhaps a torch?
Either way, you might as well use a hack saw - you're gonna ruin the crank or bottom bracket or both anyway......
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Hammer it off? Do you live in the third world? Maybe you should price a set of replacement cranks before you resort to percussive maintenance.
Today, Nashbar will sell you their house brand crank puller for $7.39 with free shipping. Depending on your state, you might not even pay sales tax.
Today, Nashbar will sell you their house brand crank puller for $7.39 with free shipping. Depending on your state, you might not even pay sales tax.
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Get a puller, any LBS will have one for $13 or less.
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If you're really broke a lot of car parts shops (Autozone, Advance, Checker, Pep Boys, etc.) will lone you tools for free. You just have to put down a deposit. Maybe a two-jaw gear puller might do the trick? Might still ruin the crank but ya never know.
That being said, the deposit will be more than a crank puller costs.
That being said, the deposit will be more than a crank puller costs.
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Using a set of pry bars would work. I've even taken crank arms off with a big screwdriver and a block of wood. You could also use a couple of large chisels (the kind that are wedge shaped) to get them off. The amount of damage you do is up to you though, but take my advice and just get a crank puller. You go prying crankarms off and you can easily damage the square taper interface of the crankarm, which is designed to be a tight fit when its bolted down.
The crank puller pulls the crankarm straight off, without any side to side forces ruining the square taper.
The crank puller pulls the crankarm straight off, without any side to side forces ruining the square taper.
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Hammer it off? Do you live in the third world? Maybe you should price a set of replacement cranks before you resort to percussive maintenance.
Today, Nashbar will sell you their house brand crank puller for $7.39 with free shipping. Depending on your state, you might not even pay sales tax.
Today, Nashbar will sell you their house brand crank puller for $7.39 with free shipping. Depending on your state, you might not even pay sales tax.
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This is the way I do it.
This will work with tapered spindles. Remove the nut or bolt out of the non drive side arm, now ride the bike and the arm will start to loosen within a few hundred revolutions. To speed things up youcan repeatedly hop up and down on the pedals alternating right and left foot forward. This has worked 3 times on different cranks Alivio, 300ex and Stronglights. Yes I once tried pry bars and yes they were a stupid idea.
Good Luck mm
This will work with tapered spindles. Remove the nut or bolt out of the non drive side arm, now ride the bike and the arm will start to loosen within a few hundred revolutions. To speed things up youcan repeatedly hop up and down on the pedals alternating right and left foot forward. This has worked 3 times on different cranks Alivio, 300ex and Stronglights. Yes I once tried pry bars and yes they were a stupid idea.
Good Luck mm
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It will get them off, but there's a good chance it will deform (i.e. ruin) the cranks. Also a fair chance of hurting yourself.
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This is completely ********. Spend the $10, get the proper tool instead of wasting time on some home hack job.
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Buy the puller but if some reason you insist on doing it with out one get a "pickle fork" Used to pop the ball joints loose on cars. Place the forks flat side towards the bb tapered side toward crank arm. Add some wood strips behind the flat side to protect the various bits on the bb. Then use a hard rubber mallet to hit the end of the pickle forks handle. Its the only other tool that you can use to pull a crank with out trashing something. FYI pickle fork = 15+ and hard rubber mallet another 10 crank tool 10 to 15.
The only time i used the pickle fork was when the crank arms threads for the puller were stripped out on a old bike i bought.
The only time i used the pickle fork was when the crank arms threads for the puller were stripped out on a old bike i bought.
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Thanks
Thanks for your advice. I figured that the amount of time it would take me to do the job without the proper tool was far more valuable then the tool itself and the bike I risk damaging. I got the puller at bike nashbar for under $8. I learned from working in an auto shop that doing a job without the right tools is a disaster.
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In the process of banking and crowbaring, you are likely to damage the bottom bracket or at least get it out of whack.
You can get a crank puller for under $15.00. Consider that the $15.00 is cheaper than having it done by a bike shop and it is a lot cheaper than any repair you might have done on a car.
Also, you might be glad to know that a standard crank puller will fit very nearly all cranks with just a couple of exceptions
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I stripped the threads yesterday off an old crank by using the large pin head as opposed to the small one. I almost went nuts, i tried almost everything like using a screwdriver as a chisel and hammering away, the only thing that worked was to get on the bike and ride it with the crank bolt off, it came off in less than a block. Thanks manman.
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I also recently stripped the threads trying to take off a crank to try to tighten a loose bb. I have tried almost every single method I could find on the internet, including a gear puller, to no avail. Sigh.
#19
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Come on, Monkeys - just buy the right tool. Here's one variety:
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...26&item=CCP-22
And here's what I think is the better variety:
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=26&item=CWP-7
To those who already have the CWP-6, this CWP-7 is much beefier. It's worth upgrading. You can always donate your old -6 to your local bike-collective, etc.
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...26&item=CCP-22
And here's what I think is the better variety:
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=26&item=CWP-7
To those who already have the CWP-6, this CWP-7 is much beefier. It's worth upgrading. You can always donate your old -6 to your local bike-collective, etc.
#21
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Take it to a bike-shop and see if they can get it out and cut new threads. Or buy a new crank-arm. Resolve to use grease on the threads the next time.
#22
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
If the proper bb tool does not work you can use a gear puller... riding it off is not a suggested practice as it can damage an otherwise decent crank arm.
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I'd "ride it off" as that is least likely to damage the bottom bracket or frame. All of the pry and beat techniques have a strong likelihood of doing collateral damage.
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If the threads are stripped, I would think it is no longer "an otherwise decent crankarm".
I'd "ride it off" as that is least likely to damage the bottom bracket or frame. All of the pry and beat techniques have a strong likelihood of doing collateral damage.
I'd "ride it off" as that is least likely to damage the bottom bracket or frame. All of the pry and beat techniques have a strong likelihood of doing collateral damage.
#25
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