Chain Tightness
#1
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Chain Tightness
Would it be advisable to have the bike chain on a fixed-gear just so tight that a) it wont fall off and b) you need one of those chain-pin taker-outers in order to take the chain off?
#2
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Are you talking true track dropouts? For convenience's sake, I'd want to have enough space in the drops to get the wheel off without breaking the chain.
You want it tight enough not to bind (especially if there's any irregularity in your chainring), but not so loose that you feel a big difference when you start to backpedal. You'll need to experiment to get it right.
You want it tight enough not to bind (especially if there's any irregularity in your chainring), but not so loose that you feel a big difference when you start to backpedal. You'll need to experiment to get it right.
#3
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You have to have the chain tight enough that it won't fall off, because if it does, it can lead to a catastrophic crash and expensive repairs. The idea is to make sure it is tight but not binding.
To check the chain for minimum tightness, stand on one side of bike, reach over the bike, grab seat tube or down tube near the BB with one hand, raise the bike so it is horizontal and use yout other hand to turn the cranks. If the chain stays on, you are ok.
To check the chain for minimum tightness, stand on one side of bike, reach over the bike, grab seat tube or down tube near the BB with one hand, raise the bike so it is horizontal and use yout other hand to turn the cranks. If the chain stays on, you are ok.
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
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Just as a sanity check - even if you have a fixie, surely you want a front brake around for such a situation?
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When the chain drops on the rear cog and jams into the hub, your front brake will be the least of you worries - you'll have a major rear brake in action you'll be trying to get rid of. Brakes will be something you have too much of.