At first i thought my parents moved my bike and some how got it snagged with my other bikes but today when i was doing my laundry in the garage, i heard a crack i thought i was some type of glass... when i noticed that one of my spokes broke. the bike didnt even move anywhere nor was anything near it nor did i ride the bike in 2 weeks.
This is the 3rd spoke that i have had to replace.
This is a 06 Gary Fisher Tassajara and the rim is completely stock. Shimano M525 disc-compatible hubs + Bontrager Camino rims + 14G Stainless Steel spokes.
Your spoke tension is way off. You bent your rim somehow. Either that, or your spoke spontaneously combusted.
You need to re-tension the whole wheel and then true it. Unless you have a tensiometer ask you LBS to do it for you. On the other hand, if a LBS changed your broken spokes you probably need to change LBS because they are doing a poor job of it.
I had this happen to me on a rear wheel, Performance hub, Mavic MA3 rim, 32h, 14/15g spokes built by Performance (machine built actually) that I bought because I needed a quick pair of wheels. After 6 months of riding I had spokes break while riding, with the wheel in the truing stand and with just the bike sitting there. I rebuilt it with 14g spokes (I have built over a dozen wheels over the years with never a problem) and still had the same issue. The spokes were breaking a few millimeters above the bend. The problem with my rear hub was the spoke holes were to big. You could see gaps which would cause the spokes to move while riding causing it to bend and fatigue then break. I found this out by talking to some expert wheel builders. So look at the rear hub and if you see daylight in any of the spoke holes get it replaced and always stay away from machine built wheels. Hand built is the only way to go, Good Luck.
2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Would have more bikes if I had time to ride them all. Previous bikes: 1968 Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fav), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
If all the spokes that broke were the same type (such as drive side pulling, replace any that have not already broken after detensioning but before tension and true on the wheel. There's no way to tell which of the remaining ones have been fatigued.