Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northfield, MN
Bikes: 1997, stumpjumper S-works hardtail, Medici, Giant allegre (track dropouts and fixed gear), Columbia twosome, schwinn twinn, '67 raleigh 5 speed internal hub, Old triumph 3 speed, old BSA 3-speed, schwinn Racer 2spd kickback, Broken raysport criteriu
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The way that seems to make sense to me is..
First true your wheel if necessary.
then adjust your pads, so they will hit your rim where you want them to, and so they're toed the way you want. NO matter how you adjust your cable tension your pads will hit the rim where you have adjusted them. But if you adjust your pads later, then that may mess up the way your tension feels to you, and you'll end up redoing them.
Then adjust the link wire (if adjustable) the way you want it. and you can pull on the brake lever and adjust the left right pull of the brakes using that little set screw on the side of one (or sometimes both) brake. This may make one pad hit earlier than the other side of the rim, you're aiming for simultaneous contact on both sides of the rim. If they hit at different times (left then right) it allows the first one to push the rim away and it may dive beneath the rim and cause the late pad to hit the tire instead of the rim. Again, you're aiming for simultaneous contact with the rim.
then adjust your cable tension. Squeeze your pads onto your rim with your hand while pulling break cable and finger tightening your bolt/nut on that cable. This usually allows enough slack to release the pads off the rim when you let go of the brake pads. If you have a 3rd or 4th hand tool this becomes much easier but it's also easy to get the brakes too tight, so just don't pull as hard on the cable.
Last edited by orange leader; 08-27-07 at 12:54 PM.