Proper Spoke Tension with Tensiometer?
I have a Park TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter. I'm wondering what are some ballpark numbers for a properly tensioned wheel. What are some good numbers for the front wheel? Rear wheel left side? Rear wheel right side?
Do you have to know the rim, hub, and spoke types?
I laced my first wheels on my new LHT. I used Sheldon's instructions. To set tension I checked the wheels on my other touring bike. It worked okay, but I don't want to load it up and take it on tour until I'm more sure of what I've done.
Any tips would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Making a kilometer blurry
You need to contact the manufacturer to find out what they recommend for tension on a given build. Velocity told me 100kgf front and 110kgf rear for my build. I think that range is pretty good in general.
The recommended spoke tension supposedly varies depending on the rim, and most manufacturers don't seem to publish them, at least not on public websites. My impression from reading various forums is that 100 kgf is a reasonable starting point for the front and rear drive-side spokes, with the non-drive side ending up at whatever it needs to be to make a true and dished wheel (and it can be significantly lower...sometimes close to half the drive-side tension). Having uniform tension all the way around on a side is important too. I try to get the spoke tension readings within about 10% all the way around.
The Park TM-1 comes with a chart that will help you interpret the readings from the tensiometer into actual tension for any given spoke.
The tension reading for a DB 2.0/1.8/2.0 stainless spoke and a 1.8mm aluminium spoke will be very different.
Have a look at that chart first. Balance out the tension around the wheel and then move to final tension.
Final tension will vary from wheel to wheel. Hopefully someone can chime in with some useful numbers for you.
Yes, 100 seems to be a common number, or you can infer the "average" ("average" because I don't use the average tension of the whole wheel as calculated by the Park spreadsheet) tension and use that one. Regardless of how screed up the tension on a wheel is, there is always a common tension reading that repeats itself a lot.
Originally Posted by Metaluna
Not as good a using the recommended tension from the manufacturer but it works fine and is faster, specially if you are doing multiple bikes.
I have seen on some of the spoc calc programs a percentage tension left/right for rear wheels... My intepretation is that if L= 48% of right....if the right drive side is 110 then the left is roughly 53. Does this sound about right?
I am sure I'm going to be really happy when wheel build is done.....but it is a long trip....looking at this thread it seems I put probably way too much tension on initially....finally got a tension meter and am backing off (from 150) and starting again.
The difference depends on the dish of the wheel. The left and right on a front wheel, for example should be pretty balanced. A 9 speed rear wheel will be something like you mentioned but I have never used a formula. The ratio will depend on the amount of dish. I just tensioned a friends 29er front disc wheel last night and it averaged 110 on the disc or left side and 65 on the right due to the dishing to make space for the disc.
Originally Posted by squirtdad
i think it depends on your rim.
i have some light tubular rims and they seem to be at the limit with readings around 18-19 with 2.0/1.8 spokes. i can see where the nipples are starting to bulge the rim just a tiny amount...
Originally Posted by Malibu Police Chief