Proper Spoke Tension with Tensiometer?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central Coast, CA
Posts: 3,392
Bikes: Surly LHT, Specialized Rockhopper, Nashbar Touring (old), Specialized Stumpjumper (older), Nishiki Tourer (model unknown)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Proper Spoke Tension with Tensiometer?
I have a Park TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter. I'm wondering what are some ballpark numbers for a properly tensioned wheel. What are some good numbers for the front wheel? Rear wheel left side? Rear wheel right side?
Do you have to know the rim, hub, and spoke types?
I laced my first wheels on my new LHT. I used Sheldon's instructions. To set tension I checked the wheels on my other touring bike. It worked okay, but I don't want to load it up and take it on tour until I'm more sure of what I've done.
Any tips would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Do you have to know the rim, hub, and spoke types?
I laced my first wheels on my new LHT. I used Sheldon's instructions. To set tension I checked the wheels on my other touring bike. It worked okay, but I don't want to load it up and take it on tour until I'm more sure of what I've done.
Any tips would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance!
#2
Bikaholic
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Western, Michigan
Posts: 1,461
Bikes: Trek Fuel 90, Giant OCR, Rans Screamer Tandem
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
It usually comes in the box with this chart. https://www.parktool.com/products/big...6228_78140.jpg But you can download another one here. https://www.parktool.com/products/doc...05912_4301.pdf
#3
Making a kilometer blurry
You need to contact the manufacturer to find out what they recommend for tension on a given build. Velocity told me 100kgf front and 110kgf rear for my build. I think that range is pretty good in general.
#4
Senior Member
The recommended spoke tension supposedly varies depending on the rim, and most manufacturers don't seem to publish them, at least not on public websites. My impression from reading various forums is that 100 kgf is a reasonable starting point for the front and rear drive-side spokes, with the non-drive side ending up at whatever it needs to be to make a true and dished wheel (and it can be significantly lower...sometimes close to half the drive-side tension). Having uniform tension all the way around on a side is important too. I try to get the spoke tension readings within about 10% all the way around.
#5
Mr. Dopolina
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Taiwan
Posts: 10,217
Bikes: KUUPAS, Simpson VR
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Liked 117 Times
in
41 Posts
The Park TM-1 comes with a chart that will help you interpret the readings from the tensiometer into actual tension for any given spoke.
The tension reading for a DB 2.0/1.8/2.0 stainless spoke and a 1.8mm aluminium spoke will be very different.
Have a look at that chart first. Balance out the tension around the wheel and then move to final tension.
Final tension will vary from wheel to wheel. Hopefully someone can chime in with some useful numbers for you.
The tension reading for a DB 2.0/1.8/2.0 stainless spoke and a 1.8mm aluminium spoke will be very different.
Have a look at that chart first. Balance out the tension around the wheel and then move to final tension.
Final tension will vary from wheel to wheel. Hopefully someone can chime in with some useful numbers for you.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 253
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The recommended spoke tension supposedly varies depending on the rim, and most manufacturers don't seem to publish them, at least not on public websites. My impression from reading various forums is that 100 kgf is a reasonable starting point for the front and rear drive-side spokes, with the non-drive side ending up at whatever it needs to be to make a true and dished wheel (and it can be significantly lower...sometimes close to half the drive-side tension). Having uniform tension all the way around on a side is important too. I try to get the spoke tension readings within about 10% all the way around.
Not as good a using the recommended tension from the manufacturer but it works fine and is faster, specially if you are doing multiple bikes.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,834
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2337 Post(s)
Liked 2,809 Times
in
1,534 Posts
I have seen on some of the spoc calc programs a percentage tension left/right for rear wheels... My intepretation is that if L= 48% of right....if the right drive side is 110 then the left is roughly 53. Does this sound about right?
I am sure I'm going to be really happy when wheel build is done.....but it is a long trip....looking at this thread it seems I put probably way too much tension on initially....finally got a tension meter and am backing off (from 150) and starting again.
I am sure I'm going to be really happy when wheel build is done.....but it is a long trip....looking at this thread it seems I put probably way too much tension on initially....finally got a tension meter and am backing off (from 150) and starting again.
#8
Bikaholic
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Western, Michigan
Posts: 1,461
Bikes: Trek Fuel 90, Giant OCR, Rans Screamer Tandem
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have seen on some of the spoc calc programs a percentage tension left/right for rear wheels... My intepretation is that if L= 48% of right....if the right drive side is 110 then the left is roughly 53. Does this sound about right?
I am sure I'm going to be really happy when wheel build is done.....but it is a long trip....looking at this thread it seems I put probably way too much tension on initially....finally got a tension meter and am backing off (from 150) and starting again.
I am sure I'm going to be really happy when wheel build is done.....but it is a long trip....looking at this thread it seems I put probably way too much tension on initially....finally got a tension meter and am backing off (from 150) and starting again.
#9
park ranger
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: mars
Posts: 1,794
Bikes: recumbents
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
i think it depends on your rim.
i have some light tubular rims and they seem to be at the limit with readings around 18-19 with 2.0/1.8 spokes. i can see where the nipples are starting to bulge the rim just a tiny amount...
i have some light tubular rims and they seem to be at the limit with readings around 18-19 with 2.0/1.8 spokes. i can see where the nipples are starting to bulge the rim just a tiny amount...