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  1. #1
    Senior Member keraba's Avatar
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    Loose back wheel

    I recently noticed that my back wheel is loose, and getting more loose quickly. I tried taking it off and tightening the cone nuts, but it doesn't appear to have those. Are there press fit cones ? Is this something simple to fix ?

    It's a 2000-ish low spoke Rolf hub.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    B-b-b-b-b-b-bicicle Rider orange leader's Avatar
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    1997, stumpjumper S-works hardtail, Medici, Giant allegre (track dropouts and fixed gear), Columbia twosome, schwinn twinn, '67 raleigh 5 speed internal hub, Old triumph 3 speed, old BSA 3-speed, schwinn Racer 2spd kickback, Broken raysport criteriu
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    If you don't have cones then your hubs must be cartidge bearing hubs. I looked at rolf on the web and they seem to like using cartridge bearings. so that's probably what you have.

    If cartridge bearing hubs feel loose (side to side) you have a bad cartridge (or 2). THese are generally not serviceable, but are relatively cheap to replace. You should probably replace both as long as you're in there. Last time I looked at these, they were around $4.00 per side ($8 per wheel). They may have gone up (as everything seems to), or have gone down due to their being more widely used, and readily available.

    To remove cartridge bearings, remove the axle, then you can usually just slip the bent end of an allen wrench into the hole in the middle of the cartridge bearing and pull out. It may take some effort, as they dont' always come out as easily as they are meant to, but the idea is not complicated.

    then just slide in the new ones, the new ones almost always go in easier than the old ones came out.
    Last edited by orange leader; 08-27-07 at 12:42 PM. Reason: grammer and more details
    Rudimentum mendum menda
    Iudicium mendiosus
    Judicium per erratum
    Judicium et erratum!

  3. #3
    Senior Member keraba's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply. The only place I've found the bearings is bocabearings.com and they seem to want $48 or $78 (depending on SS or ceramic, I think.) I'll see what the bike shop says.

    Thanks again

  4. #4
    B-b-b-b-b-b-bicicle Rider orange leader's Avatar
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    I'd get the specs on those bearings. you may be able to get them from a hardware store for a LOT less. I had different hubs, and they were fairly standard bearings, but I still bought them through a bike shop, in a 10 pack for like $40 or $50. I think those were for Paul hubs, but like I said, it's been a while, and I still have 6 left.
    Rudimentum mendum menda
    Iudicium mendiosus
    Judicium per erratum
    Judicium et erratum!

  5. #5
    Senior Member MudPie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by orange leader View Post
    I'd get the specs on those bearings. you may be able to get them from a hardware store for a LOT less. I had different hubs, and they were fairly standard bearings, but I still bought them through a bike shop, in a 10 pack for like $40 or $50. I think those were for Paul hubs, but like I said, it's been a while, and I still have 6 left.
    If you have a caliper or micrometer, measure the outside diam, inside diam, and thickness of the bearing. 99-44/100% sure they will match up to an existing industrial bearing. Also, look around the seal for numbers - chances are, those numbers match up to an existing bearing. Numbers may look like "60012RS".

    See this general article on removing and replacing bearings: http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadin.../bearings.html

    See this for typical bicycle bearing numbers and sizes: http://www.abiindustries.com/enduro/endurobearings.html

    Finally, if ABI doesn't have what you need or you want to know more about bearings, see:
    http://www.mcmaster.com/ (type in "abec bearing" into the search function)

    (A friend had bought a set of bearings for the various suspension pivots on his bike for about $100. I looked at the bearings and figured I could get the same bearings for about $15 at McMasterCarr)

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