Disc Brake adapter
08-22-07, 06:39 AM
#1
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Bikes: Cannondale's R2000, R-1000, RT1000 Tandem , Killer-V 900HT, Miyata Dupli/Cross Tandem , Specialized Ground Control A1 Comp , K2 5.0 Comp , Trek 820 , Giant Kronos lugged steel ,Raleigh M-60, Gary Fisher Pro-Caliber.
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Disc Brake adapter
Has anyone tried one of the rear disc brake adapters to convert a non disc frame? I am wanting to install disc's on one of my non disc tandems, and am thinking about one of these.
Are ther any problems that I should be aware of?
Thanks
Are ther any problems that I should be aware of?
Thanks
08-22-07, 09:42 AM
#2
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I am currently in the process of trying to convert 1988(?) Giant RS930 road bike. I purchased the A2Z disc brake DM-UNI adapter I found on ebay for like 30$. This was mainly an experiment, just because. I like to wrench and I scored most parts for free, or cheap.
-The frame re-spacing was not a big deal(I Used the all-thread bolt method, as opposed the the Sheldon Brown Method).
-Front wheel is no issue... new fork with disc tabs.
-I have a Trekking bar and I am re-using some V-brake levers, so if you have Drop bars then you'll need to get travel agents or Disc compatible levers.
Here are some of the problems that i am currently trying to resolve.
1. Frame spacing. The hub spacing is fine, however the rotor flange sticks out far enough so that the edge of the rotor is just barely making contact with the chainstay. I need to file the notch out of the rear dropouts, and hopefully this will give enough clearance for the Rotor. I checked a buddy's disc frame, and there isn't much space there, so i don't think there needs to be much space for it to work.
2. dropout angle. After bending the rear stays, the angle of the dropout is now slightly wider and i may have to do some tweaking for the caliper to line up properly. steel frame, not scared to bend a bit.
3. disc only wheels- I scored disc wheels on the real cheap from JensonUSA, but I should have bought a disc/rim compatible wheel for this project, as i now cannot ride the bike until I have resolved these issues. I don't want to go back to original wheel, because i either have to re-space again, or find a longer axle, plus no advantage of my new 9 spd cassette.
I figure if i can't get it to go, then I'll get a new rear wheel and sell the disc to someone who may want a spare or who doesn't have clearance issues. At least ill have the Disc in Front. I hope this helps and I'll keep anybody posted If they are interested.
-The frame re-spacing was not a big deal(I Used the all-thread bolt method, as opposed the the Sheldon Brown Method).
-Front wheel is no issue... new fork with disc tabs.
-I have a Trekking bar and I am re-using some V-brake levers, so if you have Drop bars then you'll need to get travel agents or Disc compatible levers.
Here are some of the problems that i am currently trying to resolve.
1. Frame spacing. The hub spacing is fine, however the rotor flange sticks out far enough so that the edge of the rotor is just barely making contact with the chainstay. I need to file the notch out of the rear dropouts, and hopefully this will give enough clearance for the Rotor. I checked a buddy's disc frame, and there isn't much space there, so i don't think there needs to be much space for it to work.
2. dropout angle. After bending the rear stays, the angle of the dropout is now slightly wider and i may have to do some tweaking for the caliper to line up properly. steel frame, not scared to bend a bit.
3. disc only wheels- I scored disc wheels on the real cheap from JensonUSA, but I should have bought a disc/rim compatible wheel for this project, as i now cannot ride the bike until I have resolved these issues. I don't want to go back to original wheel, because i either have to re-space again, or find a longer axle, plus no advantage of my new 9 spd cassette.
I figure if i can't get it to go, then I'll get a new rear wheel and sell the disc to someone who may want a spare or who doesn't have clearance issues. At least ill have the Disc in Front. I hope this helps and I'll keep anybody posted If they are interested.
08-22-07, 02:23 PM
#3
Full Member
I have the A2Z as well, for quite some time now. It works well, but has some drawbacks. The wheel is no longer 'quick release' as you have to undo the skewer. Also the wheel entry into the dropout changes to be slightly more difficult. Overall I'd recommend it.
10-02-07, 10:28 PM
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Here are some of the problems that i am currently trying to resolve.
1. Frame spacing. The hub spacing is fine, however the rotor flange sticks out far enough so that the edge of the rotor is just barely making contact with the chainstay. I need to file the notch out of the rear dropouts, and hopefully this will give enough clearance for the Rotor. I checked a buddy's disc frame, and there isn't much space there, so i don't think there needs to be much space for it to work.FIXED, after filing the notch, the wheel came back enough to fit, but had to bend a little further then re-align the dropouts. It wasnt that big of a deal, im sure a pro could have done it perfect, but i eyeballed it and used a big crescent wrench and got it done.
2. dropout angle. After bending the rear stays, the angle of the dropout is now slightly wider and i may have to do some tweaking for the caliper to line up properly. steel frame, not scared to bend a bit.FIXED see above
3. disc only wheels- I scored disc wheels on the real cheap from JensonUSA, but I should have bought a disc/rim compatible wheel for this project, as i now cannot ride the bike until I have resolved these issues. I don't want to go back to original wheel, because i either have to re-space again, or find a longer axle, plus no advantage of my new 9 spd cassette. no problem now, but got scary there for a moment. I still recommend the disc/rim brake compatibility.
I figure if i can't get it to go, then I'll get a new rear wheel and sell the disc to someone who may want a spare or who doesn't have clearance issues. At least ill have the Disc in Front. I hope this helps and I'll keep anybody posted If they are interested.
1. Frame spacing. The hub spacing is fine, however the rotor flange sticks out far enough so that the edge of the rotor is just barely making contact with the chainstay. I need to file the notch out of the rear dropouts, and hopefully this will give enough clearance for the Rotor. I checked a buddy's disc frame, and there isn't much space there, so i don't think there needs to be much space for it to work.FIXED, after filing the notch, the wheel came back enough to fit, but had to bend a little further then re-align the dropouts. It wasnt that big of a deal, im sure a pro could have done it perfect, but i eyeballed it and used a big crescent wrench and got it done.
2. dropout angle. After bending the rear stays, the angle of the dropout is now slightly wider and i may have to do some tweaking for the caliper to line up properly. steel frame, not scared to bend a bit.FIXED see above
3. disc only wheels- I scored disc wheels on the real cheap from JensonUSA, but I should have bought a disc/rim compatible wheel for this project, as i now cannot ride the bike until I have resolved these issues. I don't want to go back to original wheel, because i either have to re-space again, or find a longer axle, plus no advantage of my new 9 spd cassette. no problem now, but got scary there for a moment. I still recommend the disc/rim brake compatibility.
I figure if i can't get it to go, then I'll get a new rear wheel and sell the disc to someone who may want a spare or who doesn't have clearance issues. At least ill have the Disc in Front. I hope this helps and I'll keep anybody posted If they are interested.
10-03-07, 06:10 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Central Kansas
Posts: 154
Bikes: Cannondale's R2000, R-1000, RT1000 Tandem , Killer-V 900HT, Miyata Dupli/Cross Tandem , Specialized Ground Control A1 Comp , K2 5.0 Comp , Trek 820 , Giant Kronos lugged steel ,Raleigh M-60, Gary Fisher Pro-Caliber.
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Thanks for the info guys, It was very helpful!
