Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Senior Member Spokes man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Memphis
    My Bikes
    2008 Specialized Roubaix Elite Compact, 2004 Giant Cypress, 1981 Specialized Sequoia
    Posts
    246
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Old Sequoia -- Higher stem

    I just bought an old Specialized Sequoia as a project bike . . . It's got the shifters in the drop-bar ends, so that's how old it is.

    I throught maybe I could bring the bar height up some by raising the stem but I can't get the stem to budge. I've loosened the threaded collar as well as the hex bolt in the top of the stem. No go.

    I realize there may be no more height to this stem once I budge it loose, so how do I determine what size it is before I seek a replacement, longer (higher) stem?

  2. #2
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Dallas
    My Bikes
    03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
    Posts
    6,896
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Use Liquid Wrench around the base of the stem and let it soak for a day. Then rap the hex bolt with a hammer until it frees up.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

  3. #3
    biked well well biked's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    6,799
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Spokes man View Post
    I just bought an old Specialized Sequoia as a project bike . . . It's got the shifters in the drop-bar ends, so that's how old it is.

    I throught maybe I could bring the bar height up some by raising the stem but I can't get the stem to budge. I've loosened the threaded collar as well as the hex bolt in the top of the stem. No go.

    I realize there may be no more height to this stem once I budge it loose, so how do I determine what size it is before I seek a replacement, longer (higher) stem?

    You may very well be fighting against galvanic corrosion, which means the aluminum stem may be bonded to the steel steerer tube. If this is the case, you may be in for a tough fight. Suggested remedies range anywhere from brute force to amonia to lye. I would try what DMF suggested first, and if it doesn't work use an oak dowel inserted into the bottom of the steerer tube to try and drive the stem loose from below. If you're not concerned with saving the stem, use a metal rod or pipe of the appropriate size in place of the dowel. Beyond that, one of the chemical solutions is probably your only hope-

  4. #4
    Senior Member Spokes man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Memphis
    My Bikes
    2008 Specialized Roubaix Elite Compact, 2004 Giant Cypress, 1981 Specialized Sequoia
    Posts
    246
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Great, got it loose! I nosed around on Sheldon Brown's site and he suggested the same rubber-mallet rap on the loosened hex bolt that you guys did (saw Sheldon's tip before I saw your posts) and the stem came right out. I was able to raise the stem to the "minimum insertion point" marked on it, so I bought about an inch or so. I think I still might want it a bit higher for touring, so I'm going to explore a new stem.

    So . . . I'll have to figure out what new stems will fit. Any clues about this will be much appreciated, too.

    Also trying to figure out just how old this bike is . . . the bike I had back in the 70s had the down-tube shifters . . . I guess I missed the end-of-the-bars shifters . . . When were they popular?

  5. #5
    biked well well biked's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    6,799
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    For a REALLY high, traditional quill stem, the Nitto Technomic stem is the ticket. Harris Cyclery (go to Sheldon's site) carries them. You'll need to determine your handlebar clamp diameter (25.4 or 26.0), and how long you want the forward extension to be.

    As for the bar-end shifter question, they've been around a long time, since at least the '70's. They're still pretty popular on touring bikes-

  6. #6
    Senior Member Spokes man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Memphis
    My Bikes
    2008 Specialized Roubaix Elite Compact, 2004 Giant Cypress, 1981 Specialized Sequoia
    Posts
    246
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for the info, wb.

  7. #7
    biked well well biked's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    6,799
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Spokes man View Post
    Thanks for the info, wb.
    No problemo. If you want to determine the date of the components on your bike, go to the vintage trek site, and check out the section titled "component dates." You'll need to find date codes on your cranks, derailleurs, etc., and assuming they're original equipment on the bike, you can figure out how old the bike is-

    www.vintage-trek.com

  8. #8
    just keep riding BluesDawg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Milledgeville, Georgia
    My Bikes
    2014 Specialized Crave Pro 29, 2014 Specialized Crux EVO Carbon Disc, 2012 Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross, 2011 Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert Compact, 2009 Salsa Casseroll, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB
    Posts
    12,732
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    +1 for the Nitto Technomic or Technomic Deluxe. Bar end shifters are still popular on my bikes. (and not just touring bikes)
    The more you ride your bike, the less your ass will hurt.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •