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  1. #1
    Air
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    Destroyer of Wheels Air's Avatar
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    Rear gears - does the brand matter when used with friction shifters?

    I'm sorry if this is a noob question but I keep seeing references to having to change the whole group when changing hubs and want to double check before I get in over my head.

    I have three bikes, none of exceptional quality but they get me where I have to go (when they work) faster than walking, great exercise and cheaper than any transportation method. One mtb (6 sp, bad weather and backup), one Nishiki Sport road bike (6 sp, longer distances & exercise), and one Downtube folding bike (9 sp, quick jaunts).

    Been having problems with the rear wheels (I'm a Clyde at 280#) of all three and will probably have one or more rear wheels built. I'm debating about going over to cassettes (2/3 have freewheels). If so I'd keep them Shimano compatible - seems cheaper with more flexibility in parts. Also would keep it at 8 speeds or less to avoid moving over to a thinner chain (which I seem to keep breaking).

    I use friction shifters on all three. If I move over to cassettes on the mtb and Nishiki do I need to worry about anything with the rear deraileurs or shifters? Personally, out of the three I dislike the way the cassette shifts the most but I keep reading about how cassettes are better especially because they support the rear axle better than freewheels and shift better. I do like how much easier it is to get the cassette off than the freewheel though.

  2. #2
    cab horn
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    Friction shifters will shift everything. Don't need new derailleurs.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  3. #3
    Air
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    That's what I thought, danka! Like I said, noob but everyone kept talking about changing groups with hubs and wanted to make sure there wasn't something I was missing.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Friction shifters will shift everything. Don't need new derailleurs.
    Not quite. It's safer to stick with Shimano derailleurs. Your friction shifters will not have enough throw to move a SRAM derailleur through all the cogs. Different actuation

    - and don't feel bad asking "newb" questions, that's what the forum is for...

  5. #5
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    I'm sure he was assuming that the shifter and RD are correctly matched.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

  6. #6
    Air
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    Well - no, that's actually really useful to know. I was thinking of getting a different deraileur for the folding bike since I read about others who noticed a remarkable change in shifting - I know what to keep my eyes open for.

    Thanks!

  7. #7
    如果你能讀了這個你講中文 genericbikedude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiver View Post
    Not quite. It's safer to stick with Shimano derailleurs. Your friction shifters will not have enough throw to move a SRAM derailleur through all the cogs. Different actuation

    - and don't feel bad asking "newb" questions, that's what the forum is for...
    I actually have direct experience using suntour bar-end shifters with a SRAM MTB derailler. it shifted all the gears and continues to work fine. different actuation, but not enough to matter.

  8. #8
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    MTB RDs aren't the issue. SRAM road uses a 1:1 pull ratio.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by genericbikedude View Post
    I actually have direct experience using suntour bar-end shifters with a SRAM MTB derailler. it shifted all the gears and continues to work fine. different actuation, but not enough to matter.
    Sorry. I was assuming Shimano barcons since they are currently available. I have never used the Suntour barcons with a Sram derailleur, but it's good to know they're compatible.

  10. #10
    njm
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    One other advantage of friction shifters, as quoted from CV NOTD: they're clickless!

    Quote Originally Posted by cmdr View Post
    [...]

    "Also available in a 'special' FRICTION-ONLY version where any and all clicks of any sort have been eliminated ....allowing you to run ANY rear wheel you may desire with 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 or 10 cogs ! ....Rivendell riders really love this 'special click-less' version ! ....simply let me know that you wish to have "friction-only" and I will ship these to you upon your winning bid ...."

    HEE HEE!

  11. #11
    Get on your bikes & ride! xB_Nutt's Avatar
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    FYI: 7 Speed Suntour Accushift Barcons set on friction will only pull an XT derailler across an 8 speed cassette. I couldn't get it to work with 9 speed.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by xB_Nutt View Post
    FYI: 7 Speed Suntour Accushift Barcons set on friction will only pull an XT derailler across an 8 speed cassette. I couldn't get it to work with 9 speed.
    That's odd since 8 and 9-speed (and 10 for that matter) Shimano cassettes are the same width and fit on the same width freehub.

  13. #13
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    That's odd since 8 and 9-speed (and 10 for that matter) Shimano cassettes are the same width and fit on the same width freehub.

    I was thinking the same thing, and I went to Sheldon's site to check the center to center spacing between Shimano 8sp and 9sp cogs, added it all up, and it does turn out that 9sp is just barely (1.12mm) wider than 8sp from the center of the largest cog to the center of the smallest cog.
    Last edited by well biked; 10-16-07 at 07:23 AM.

  14. #14
    Bikaholic blamp28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMF View Post
    MTB RDs aren't the issue. SRAM road uses a 1:1 pull ratio.
    SRAM X.7, X.9 and X.0 MTB rear derailleurs also use a 1:1 ratio. All others use the same ratio as Shimano
    Last edited by blamp28; 10-16-07 at 07:33 AM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by well biked View Post
    I was thinking the same thing, and I went to Sheldon's site to check the center to center spacing between Shimano 8sp and 9sp cogs, added it all up, and it does turn out that 9sp is just barely (1.12mm) wider than 8sp from the center of the largest cog to the center of the smallest cog.
    That's not much difference. I wonder if adjusting the limit screws would help or just being sure ALL of the slack is out of the shift cable when in the smallest cog would make it work.

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