Which is better for a fixie: 1/8" or 3/32" chain?
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Which is better for a fixie: 1/8" or 3/32" chain?
Advantages of each?
What do track riders use?
What do track riders use?
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Track riders use 1/8". 3/32" is usually quieter and more efficient. My advise is to make the decision based on what cranks you are using. If your cranks have a 130bcd or smaller, it will be a lot easier to find good, inexpensive chainrings in 3/32". If your cranks are 144bcd, 1/8" chainrings are easier to find.
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The advantage for a 1/8 chain on my drivetrain is simple. It actually fits on my chainring. They're cheap (SRAM single-speed chains) and easily replaceable. I pretty much destroyed one within 5 months, but for $15 I got a new one. Woopdy doo.
Or, go to Surlyblog. And since Surly doesn't even make a chainring suitable for a 1/8 chain, they MIGHT be a little bit bias.
Or, go to Surlyblog. And since Surly doesn't even make a chainring suitable for a 1/8 chain, they MIGHT be a little bit bias.
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I use 1/8" chains because they're cheap and you can run anything with it, as my fixies are built up with combinations of 1/8 & 3/32 rings and cogs.
Last edited by roadfix; 10-14-07 at 02:15 PM.
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If you are using 1/8" chainrings or cogs, use 1/8" chains. If you are using 3/32" chainrings and cogs, use either 1/8" or 3/32" chains. Using a 1/8" chain on 3/32" chainring and cog will be a little noisier, but not much.
Track riders generally use 1/8" cogs, chainrings, and chains.
Track riders generally use 1/8" cogs, chainrings, and chains.
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3/32 is what I would use unless I happened to have a 1/8 cog. I've heard arguments that 1/8" is stronger, but we all use 3/32" on our mountain bikes and climbing hills puts a hell of a lot more torque on your drive train than skidding a track wheel does. So I would choose 3/32 (aside from the cog issue) because your chain will be lighter and you will have a much wider selection in terms of quality (less selection in terms of colour though
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Sheldon likes 3/32" because there is a lot more development put into 3/32" chains, so you can get a really good quality, 3/32" chain for pretty cheap. Since a lot of 1/8" chains are sold for the low end cruiser market, you have to go for an expensive, high end chain to get the same quality in 1/8".
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The advantage for a 1/8 chain on my drivetrain is simple. It actually fits on my chainring. They're cheap (SRAM single-speed chains) and easily replaceable. I pretty much destroyed one within 5 months, but for $15 I got a new one. Woopdy doo.
Or, go to Surlyblog. And since Surly doesn't even make a chainring suitable for a 1/8 chain, they MIGHT be a little bit bias.
Or, go to Surlyblog. And since Surly doesn't even make a chainring suitable for a 1/8 chain, they MIGHT be a little bit bias.
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Sheldon likes 3/32" because there is a lot more development put into 3/32" chains, so you can get a really good quality, 3/32" chain for pretty cheap. Since a lot of 1/8" chains are sold for the low end cruiser market, you have to go for an expensive, high end chain to get the same quality in 1/8".
To the OP: my experience shows that 1/8" chainrings outlive their 3/32" counterparts by AT LEAST 3 TIMES! Hence, you save a boatload of moneyz if you go 1/8". Chainrings cost a lot.
Reason: it's not so much the difference in tooth width (1/8" vs. 3/32") as much as the fact that 3/32" chainrings have their teeth extremely thinned down at the tip. 1/8" have them nice and burly all the way to the top. This makes a huge difference. I mean, HEWGE! My estimate of 1:3 is very much on the conservative side - I am still using that 1/8" chainring with which my whole love affair with 1/8" drivetrains started. Let's see how long it lasts.
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The advantage for a 1/8 chain on my drivetrain is simple. It actually fits on my chainring. They're cheap (SRAM single-speed chains) and easily replaceable. I pretty much destroyed one within 5 months, but for $15 I got a new one. Woopdy doo.
Or, go to Surlyblog. And since Surly doesn't even make a chainring suitable for a 1/8 chain, they MIGHT be a little bit bias.
Or, go to Surlyblog. And since Surly doesn't even make a chainring suitable for a 1/8 chain, they MIGHT be a little bit bias.
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If you actually read what the Surly guys say about chain size, you'll find that the reason they recommend 3/32 over 1/8 on their chainrings is due to tolerance stack up issues. You might still get a 1/2 to work on their rings. Regardless, I run 3/32 8 speed SRAM chains on my single speed mountain bike and on my fixed gear bike. Never had any problems.
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Anyhow - why do you think track cyclists use 1/8" chains? Because they're stronger. Much stronger than 3/32". And having a 1/8" drivetrain will save you lots of money in the medium/long run, because chainring and cog will last much longer than 3/32" chainrings and cogs. Do I have to post pictures of two aluminum chainrings which I put the same amount of miles onto, one 3/32" the other 1/8"? You'll see on them that the 1/8" shows no signs of deformation (just the anodizing is a bit worn), while the 3/32" has its teeth deformed.
As I said, the problem is not as much the 3/32" to 1/8" difference in width, as much as the 3/32" teeth have those tiny-ass tips. They are designed to not last.
As I said, the problem is not as much the 3/32" to 1/8" difference in width, as much as the 3/32" teeth have those tiny-ass tips. They are designed to not last.
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I think the point is, a high quality 1/8th track chain might be stronger than an equivalent 3/32nd chain, but a cheap, low end 1/8th chain is NOT likely to be as good as an inexpensive 3/32 chain. If you buy a chain at your LBS, the 3/32 is likely to be reasonably good, but the 1/8th, if you're not at a track specific shop, is probably cheapie intended to be adequate on a kids bike.
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I think the point is, a high quality 1/8th track chain might be stronger than an equivalent 3/32nd chain, but a cheap, low end 1/8th chain is NOT likely to be as good as an inexpensive 3/32 chain. If you buy a chain at your LBS, the 3/32 is likely to be reasonably good, but the 1/8th, if you're not at a track specific shop, is probably cheapie intended to be adequate on a kids bike.
I think we'll have to live with our disagreement on this issue. Because I know I'm right
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The strength of a chain is in the roller part and in the side plates. Not the width of the gap. I don't have a 1/8" anywhere, so I can't check, but does it actually have thicker plates? Even if they are thicker, the choice of metal quality and treatment probably outweighs a slight difference in plate thickness.
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Yes, they are thicker. Yes, the choice of metal quality and treatment outweiths a slight difference in plate thickness, but at parity of metal quality and treatment, the plate thickness determines the strength of the chain. And the difference is usually not slight anyway.
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I'm not sure we really have a disagreement. Why not go into your LBS, and by ask for one 1/8th chain, and one 3/32 chain, and see which is better. I quite agree that if you deliberately buy the crappiest you can, both will be appalling.