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  1. #1
    Senior Member BikeManDan's Avatar
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    Automotive/marine wheel bearing grease isn't cutting it for me

    Have used this stuff for a while, really cheap, but it is just too viscous. Its meant for high temperature application where it melts but in a bike its always going to stay viscous.

    Any other cheap alternatives that flow a little better?

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    I like park grease. 11/tub at jensonusa.com

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...1000+1+Lb.aspx

    Its worth it!

  3. #3
    Senior Member Deanster04's Avatar
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    Agree with PolyLube but a 1lb container will last you and your friends a lifetime. Buy the 4 oz tube instead.

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    There are a lot of good bike greases. Park's PolyLube and Phil Grease are two well known ones.

    Why the emphasis on cheap? How much of any grease are you going to use? I bought Phil Grease in a 22-oz tub for about $20 and it will last for years even though I maintain 6 bikes. Buy a Duelco grease *** and refill it from the tub to keep the remaining grease clean.

    If you insist on cheap, get a tub of white lithium grease at any auto supply store.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dwoloz View Post
    Have used this stuff for a while, really cheap, but it is just too viscous. Its meant for high temperature application where it melts but in a bike its always going to stay viscous.

    Any other cheap alternatives that flow a little better?
    How do you know it is not working? Bearing wear? Not waterproof enough?

  6. #6
    Senior Member erader's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwoloz View Post
    Have used this stuff for a while, really cheap, but it is just too viscous. Its meant for high temperature application where it melts but in a bike its always going to stay viscous.

    Any other cheap alternatives that flow a little better?

    i use shimano grease....which is designed for bikes...not tugboats .

    ed rader

  7. #7
    Small Member maddmaxx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwoloz View Post
    Have used this stuff for a while, really cheap, but it is just too viscous. Its meant for high temperature application where it melts but in a bike its always going to stay viscous.

    Any other cheap alternatives that flow a little better?
    If your using it in the hubs, you can get a performance improvement (less drag) with the Park Tools grease or the Finish line white grease.

  8. #8
    Senior Member smurf hunter's Avatar
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    I like Phil Wood in the tube. Too much crud can get into grease that comes in tub containers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by maddmaxx View Post
    If your using it in the hubs, you can get a performance improvement (less drag) with the Park Tools grease or the Finish line white grease.
    Have you seen this quantified by an independent source? Maybe this is why I am so slow!
    So Shimano has its own refinery and lubrication engineers where it makes this very special grease?
    (I have a tube of this stuff and it is nice grease, BTW)
    Many people have commented on the close similarity between the highly regarded Phil Wood's grease and the boat trailer stuff.

  10. #10
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    CV joint grease. Flows easily, comes in a tube, not a tub, cheap.
    Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace

    1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
    1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
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  11. #11
    The Improbable Bulk Little Darwin's Avatar
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    I strongly suspect that the viscosity of the grease detracts little from efficiency...

    The bearings don't go zinging through the races, they roll through them... If the viscosity of the grease was a significant issue for friction in hubs and bottom brackets we wouldn't be using grease at all, we would be using thin oil, and oiling them after every ride. Because all the pros would be doing it, and then of course, the rest of us would have to as well because we all have to be like them...

    If you really like bicycle specific grease, then it may provide some minor benefit of some type. At a minimum it helps the bottom line of our favorite companies.
    Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA

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  12. #12
    Senior Member Sci-Fi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwoloz View Post
    Have used this stuff for a while, really cheap, but it is just too viscous. Its meant for high temperature application where it melts but in a bike its always going to stay viscous.

    Any other cheap alternatives that flow a little better?
    You don't need a Hi-Temp grease. Just buy Mystik JT-6 (green label not red) or Slick 50 One Grease. Slick 50 acts more like a 1.5 grade grease, which many skaters and board riders use. OR look for a #1 or #1.5 NLGI grade grease. Bike grease are all #2 NLGI rated...just look at their MSDS. A good White Lithium grease is Jet Lube 50350 White Lithium Grease with PTFE.

    Mystik JT-6 can be found at Wal*Mart, Slick 50 at local auto parts stores, and Jet Lube at marine or motorcycle shops.

  13. #13
    Road warrior tzwsp4's Avatar
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    I read a book by Forrester that advocated running on oil. He recommended drilling the hubs and bottom bracket and installing oil ports. Anybody actually doing this? I used to work for a company that made oil seals for truck wheels. One of the selling points was that oil in the bearings was more fuel efficient but the biggest selling point was elimination of the need to repack bearings every so many miles.

    Quote Originally Posted by Little Darwin View Post
    I strongly suspect that the viscosity of the grease detracts little from efficiency...

    The bearings don't go zinging through the races, they roll through them... If the viscosity of the grease was a significant issue for friction in hubs and bottom brackets we wouldn't be using grease at all, we would be using thin oil, and oiling them after every ride. Because all the pros would be doing it, and then of course, the rest of us would have to as well because we all have to be like them...

    If you really like bicycle specific grease, then it may provide some minor benefit of some type. At a minimum it helps the bottom line of our favorite companies.

  14. #14
    One speed: FAST ! fordfasterr's Avatar
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    Full synthetic Valvoline bearing grease FTW !
    Florida Velodrome Association.
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    CAT-2. Road Bike: 2011 Specialized Allez SRAM Apex. .. and yes, I am vegan.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by tzwsp4 View Post
    I read a book by Forrester that advocated running on oil. He recommended drilling the hubs and bottom bracket and installing oil ports. Anybody actually doing this? I used to work for a company that made oil seals for truck wheels. One of the selling points was that oil in the bearings was more fuel efficient but the biggest selling point was elimination of the need to repack bearings every so many miles.
    I can't get the cottered cranks off my 3 spd, so about once a year I just squirt oil down the top tube till it runs out the cup opening at the spindle. BB is perfectly smooth. Some early, very high end campy hubs were oil lubed rather than grease.

    Oil is more than sufficient lubriction for any bearing on a bike since bicycle bearings have essentially no load, no speed, no heat.
    Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace

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  16. #16
    Sometimes knows stuff. rmfnla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tzwsp4 View Post
    I read a book by Forrester that advocated running on oil. He recommended drilling the hubs and bottom bracket and installing oil ports. Anybody actually doing this? I used to work for a company that made oil seals for truck wheels. One of the selling points was that oil in the bearings was more fuel efficient but the biggest selling point was elimination of the need to repack bearings every so many miles.
    Ever see older Campy hubs with those black spring clips in the middle? Those clips were oil port covers for exactly this type of thing.

    Most cyclist got tired of cleaning the oil off their hubs & spokes, however, and started using grease; after a while the oil ports were dropped.

    The more things change the more they stay the same.
    Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tzwsp4 View Post
    I read a book by Forrester that advocated running on oil. He recommended drilling the hubs and bottom bracket and installing oil ports. Anybody actually doing this? I used to work for a company that made oil seals for truck wheels. One of the selling points was that oil in the bearings was more fuel efficient but the biggest selling point was elimination of the need to repack bearings every so many miles.
    Not good advice, really. Might be ok on a track bike, but for road or mountain, forget it.

  18. #18
    Senior Member BikeManDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jemoryl View Post
    How do you know it is not working? Bearing wear? Not waterproof enough?
    It is working, I did not say that it wasn't. I am merely unhappy with the needless drag heavy greases introduce. The one thing they do have going for them is that they are more waterproof. I'd consider a marine grease for a winter bike and a lighter grease for others.

    I found a tub of Park grease for 8 bucks, didn't realize it was that inexpensive, going to pick that up.

  19. #19
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    i think you overestimate the "extra drag".

    remember the ball bearing is rolling in the race. It's not pushing through the grease. The grease largely stays put. In fact, it is the action of the grease staying put, and in contact with the ball bearings so it can rub off some lube from time to time that makes it a good lubricant for that purpose.

    When you just take a bearing and spin it in your hand it has virtually no momentum behind it. This feeling of being "tight" does not translate to an appreciable amount of drag when you have something with the mass and leverage of a wheel or a crankset turning it. That's not the purpose of the lube anyway.

    I would recommend reading up on some of Jobst Brand's writings about lubricants for bicycles, especially grease. Man there's a lot of hype out there.

  20. #20
    Senior Member BikeManDan's Avatar
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    I appreciate the input and do agree to an extent that any drag is rather negligible. However, using the thick stuff I'm using now, it just doesn't feel right to me. Headset doesn't turn smoothly, wheels don't spin as well.
    I find that the BBs do move about, they don't stay in place. Don't know why but thats at least what I've seen

  21. #21
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    you mean the BB cups & threads move around or the bearing races have lateral slack?

    If the former, well I hate BB service and despise creaking, discovered quite by accident that the Loctite-like substance (thread locker? anti-seize?) that comes pre-coated on Race Face BB cups results in a no-creak, no-need-for-service-until-the-bearings-go-out BB installation so I have taken to cleaning oil & grease off of BB cups, frame threads and crank bolts and using blue Loctite with success so far. Zero creaking and I don't have to re-torque the BB shell, cup, and crank bolts every 1K miles like I do with Shimano BB's installed old school style with grease. I have been fighting this problem for a decade!

    If the latter, the bearings are shot. They should not have any lateral play.

    Either way I don't think grease is causing your drag... maybe bearing tension or wrong tolerance or something. The drag caused by the grease is so close to zero that there's no way you'd discover it by riding a bicycle.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by smurf hunter View Post
    I like Phil Wood in the tube. Too much crud can get into grease that comes in tub containers.
    I like Phil Grease in a tub because I get 7+ times as much for only 3 times the cost.

    That's why I recommended the Duelco refillable grease *** in my earlier post. You refill it from the tub. The Duelco lets you control the amount and placement of the grease very accurately so waste is reduced and the rest of the tub stays clean and untouched.

  23. #23
    Senior Member taylor p's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fordfasterr View Post
    Full synthetic Valvoline bearing grease FTW !
    +1, I like it better than park grease

  24. #24
    B-b-b-b-b-b-bicicle Rider orange leader's Avatar
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    I use slick 50 marine grease, and haven't noticed being super slowed down.

    Perhaps you're putting too much grease in there, so the bearings are having to push through it. You really only need enough to coat stuff, not submerge stuff.
    Rudimentum mendum menda
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  25. #25
    Senior Member BikeManDan's Avatar
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    I am rather liberal with my amounts
    I'll have to experiment with scaling back the amount

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