Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-22-07, 08:12 AM   #1
Air
Destroyer of Wheels
Thread Starter
 
Air's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Creating some FA-Qs
Bikes: Nishiki Sport, Downtube IXNS, 1950's MMB3 Russian Folding Bike, MTB
Posts: 3,598
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Rear Hub less than $100 for a Clydesdale?

What do Clydes need to worry about with rear hubs? Any good picks under $100 that should be fine for a 280# 6-1" Clydesdale? What do more expensive hubs really do? Is the rolling resistance different on mtb hubs than road hubs?

It'll be going on a Nishiki Sport that had 27" wheels (plenty of clearance for the brakes so going down to 700c shouldn't be a problem). I'd like to go with Shimano compatible, 36 holes up to 8 speed (but realize I could get different cassettes on with spacers). I'm using friction shifters so I'm not all that concerned with groups and types and so forth. I'll probably have Peter White or Harris Cyclery build up the wheel with DB spokes on Deep Vs since I've had wheel trouble all summer and really want to be done with it after this. I'm in NYC so while I don't go offroad with my roadie some of the roads are less than perfectly paved (mildly put!).

For example, how's the Tiagra 4500 vs the Shimano XT M-760 vs Shimano LX M-580 ? Is the XT really worth an extra $20, if so why? I know that the latter are mtb spacing (135) while I'm guessing I have 130 but found this this bit on dealing with that.

I took my friend's bike for a quick spin yesterday - he had 23mm tires on Deep Vs and Deore hubs with disc brakes. It felt like I was riding through pudding, lots of resistance which I thought was odd for skinny tires. (I was on my beater mtb with a shot rear hub and 2" tires so I should have felt like I was flying). Is that characteristic of mtb hubs - stronger but more resistance?

Backstory Threads:

http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=253192 - First Roadie
http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=262759 - Dialing in a Roadie
http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=294905 - How many broken spokes are dangerous
http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=298310 - Rear deraileur rubbing - bad tension?
http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=342373 - Bombproof 27" Rims
http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=349283 - Shot Rims and Clyde Recommendations?
http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=349519 - Deep V vs Dyad vs Mavic Opens
http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=352240 - Friction Shifters

Thanks - you guys have been so helpful as I work out this whole wheel thing, hopefully this'll be the last 'installment' of questions
__________________
The Almighty Clyde FAQ || Northeast Index
eTrex Vista References || Road Reference


It's the year of the enema!
Air is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-07, 08:34 AM   #2
waterrockets 
Making a kilometer blurry
 
waterrockets's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Austin (near TX)
Bikes: rkwaki's porn collection
Posts: 26,130
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Best value out there is a Tiagra, for $28. It's barely 5g heavier than an Ultegra rear, and it's available in 36h. If you want to really do it right, spend another $5 on new ball bearings for it out of the box, to get the full-hardness bearings.

A tandem hub would be cool too, if it could be re-spaced for your frame, or your frame cold-set for the hub. The Shimano HF08 is $115, and is a really stout hub.
waterrockets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-07, 08:58 AM   #3
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 29,109
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 174 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Air View Post
It'll be going on a Nishiki Sport that had 27" wheels (plenty of clearance for the brakes so going down to 700c shouldn't be a problem)...... I know that the latter are mtb spacing (135) while I'm guessing I have 130.....
If your Nishiki had 27" wheels, I expect your rear spacing is more likely to be 126 mm. What "speed" rear freehub or freewheel does it have? If it's 6/7-speed, then it's probably 126 mm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Air View Post
I took my friend's bike for a quick spin yesterday - he had 23mm tires on Deep Vs and Deore hubs with disc brakes. It felt like I was riding through pudding, lots of resistance which I thought was odd for skinny tires. (I was on my beater mtb with a shot rear hub and 2" tires so I should have felt like I was flying). Is that characteristic of mtb hubs - stronger but more resistance?
No, MTB hubs have very nearly the same smoothness as road hubs. Their seals may be a little tighter but the rolling resistance difference should be insignificant. I expect either your friend's bike has a serious mis-adjustment or you were in a much higher gear ratio and that's why it felt harder. Any chance his brakes were mis-aligned and dragging?
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-07, 10:17 AM   #4
Sheldon Brown
Gone, but not forgotten
 
Sheldon Brown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newtonville, Massachusetts
Bikes: See: http://sheldonbrown.org/bicycles
Posts: 2,301
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Air View Post
What do Clydes need to worry about with rear hubs?
Basically, nothing. Hubs don't generally fail due to rider weight. Any good picks under $100 that should be fine for a 280# 6-1" Clydesdale?[/QUOTE]Any genuine Shimano hub will work fine for you. (By the way, your height has nothing to do with this issue.)

I do strongly advise staying away from off brand or "boutique" hubs. In my opinion, the only hubs that are better than Shimano are Phil Wood, which are super 'spensive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Air View Post
What do more expensive hubs really do? Is the rolling resistance different on mtb hubs than road hubs?
More expensive Shimano hubs are typically a wee bit lighter, and may be slightly better sealed. However, even the bottom of the line Shimano models are better than anything else.

Where weight is an issue, I would advise going for one of the so-called "mountain" models due to the 135 mm spacing. This will make for a stronger wheel. When heavy riders have wheel trouble, it's generally spoke issues that end their rides early. 135 mm hubs use less asymmetry in dish, so the resulting wheels are significantly less likely to suffer spoke failures.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Air View Post
What do Clydes need to worry about with rear hubs?
Basically, nothing. Hubs don't generally fail due to rider weight. Any good picks under $100 that should be fine for a 280# 6-1" Clydesdale?[/QUOTE]Any genuine Shimano hub will work fine for you. (By the way, your height has nothing to do with this issue.)

I do strongly advise staying away from off brand or "boutique" hubs. In my opinion, the only hubs that are better than Shimano are Phil Wood, which are super 'spensive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Air View Post
I'd like to go with Shimano compatible, 36 holes up to 8 speed (but realize I could get different cassettes on with spacers).
Right. Don't pay any attention to the "n-speed" designation when buying a new hub. All current models work with any number of sprockets from 7 to 10 (excepting the silly Dura-Ace 10-speed version.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Air View Post
I took my friend's bike for a quick spin yesterday - he had 23mm tires on Deep Vs and Deore hubs with disc brakes. It felt like I was riding through pudding, lots of resistance which I thought was odd for skinny tires. (I was on my beater mtb with a shot rear hub and 2" tires so I should have felt like I was flying). Is that characteristic of mtb hubs - stronger but more resistance?
No. Assuming the hub was properly adjusted, there should be no significant difference in frictional resistance.

If you search around the Web you'll find lots of folks ranking on the lower-end models, but some of this is driven by snobbery and ignorance, and some of it is driven by the fact that bike shops sometimes tend to skimp on assembly of lower end bikes, so the less expensive hubs are often supplied with incorrect cone adjustment.

The bike you rode may also have had a dragging brake...not uncommon with disc brakes.

Sheldon "It's The Tires, Not The Hubs" Brown
Sheldon Brown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-07, 03:44 PM   #5
Air
Destroyer of Wheels
Thread Starter
 
Air's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Creating some FA-Qs
Bikes: Nishiki Sport, Downtube IXNS, 1950's MMB3 Russian Folding Bike, MTB
Posts: 3,598
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
If your Nishiki had 27" wheels, I expect your rear spacing is more likely to be 126 mm. What "speed" rear freehub or freewheel does it have? If it's 6/7-speed, then it's probably 126 mm.
Ahh - you're right, I checked again (and it was a 6 speed freewheel) and it's closer to 126 than 130. (I swear one day I'll get a ruler in mms...)

Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
No, MTB hubs have very nearly the same smoothness as road hubs. Their seals may be a little tighter but the rolling resistance difference should be insignificant. I expect either your friend's bike has a serious mis-adjustment or you were in a much higher gear ratio and that's why it felt harder. Any chance his brakes were mis-aligned and dragging?
It didn't sound like the brakes were rubbing (this was even just rolling on a level surface) but it's possible. Could have been air pressure too I guess - just wanted to make sure it had nothing to do with the hub. Next time I see him I'll check to make sure they aren't rubbing - or maybe not to make sure he doesn't drop me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown View Post
Basically, nothing. Hubs don't generally fail due to rider weight. Any good picks under $100 that should be fine for a 280# 6-1" Clydesdale. Any genuine Shimano hub will work fine for you. (By the way, your height has nothing to do with this issue.)
That's what I hoped for - awesome [I figured the height didn't have anything to do with it but I've gotten used to giving my 'stats' whenever I describe an issue ]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown View Post
Where weight is an issue, I would advise going for one of the so-called "mountain" models due to the 135 mm spacing. This will make for a stronger wheel. When heavy riders have wheel trouble, it's generally spoke issues that end their rides early.
Yes, yes it does...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown View Post
135 mm hubs use less asymmetry in dish, so the resulting wheels are significantly less likely to suffer spoke failures.
I always wondered what made them 'stronger' but never would have thought it had to do more with the spacing than construction. Sounds like at this point I'll probably go with the mtb hub for the rear.

[Edit - I've read this page a dozen times over the last year before posting but never saw or I guess fully understood that one sentence where you said this - DoH! ]

Thanks for the replies!

-----------------------

One more question: a friend gave me a Campagnolo Record road hub (from the 70's - has the grease cover on it) with a tubular Fiamme rim. I'm thinking of using that hub and building (or having built) the the front wheel (also 36 spoke Deep Vs). I was pretty set on doing that until I read about the Tiagra - is this still a good idea or should I start with a new Tiagra instead?

Thanks again!
__________________
The Almighty Clyde FAQ || Northeast Index
eTrex Vista References || Road Reference


It's the year of the enema!

Last edited by Air; 10-23-07 at 07:52 AM.
Air is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-07, 04:31 PM   #6
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 29,109
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 174 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Air View Post
One more question: a friend gave me a Campagnolo Record road hub (from the 70's - has the grease cover on it) with a tubular Fiamme rim. I'm thinking of using that hub and building (or having built) the the front wheel (also 36 spoke Deep Vs). I was pretty set on doing that until I read about the Tiagra - is this still a good idea or should I start with a new Tiagra instead?

Thanks again!
As long as you are going to build a front wheel around an existing hub, the Campy Record is as good as they come. Just be sure the races and cones are in good shape before investing in the new rim, spokes and labor.

However, you will probably find that buying a complete new wheel is less expensive than having an existing hub built up.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-07, 09:46 PM   #7
ginsoakedboy
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 616
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown View Post
I do strongly advise staying away from off brand or "boutique" hubs. In my opinion, the only hubs that are better than Shimano are Phil Wood, which are super 'spensive.

Sheldon "It's The Tires, Not The Hubs" Brown
Really? So even the high-buck hubs from Chris King, White Industries, Velocity, DT Swiss -- not an improvement over Shimano? That's very helpful to know -- I almost plunked down the long green for some King hubs, and thought I was compromising when I went with XT. Now I feel better (and strangely smarter, somehow). Thanks once again to the great bearded oracle of bicycle knowledge.
ginsoakedboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 01:14 AM   #8
operator
cab horn
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Posts: 28,306
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
However, you will probably find that buying a complete new wheel is less expensive than having an existing hub built up.
Is that ever an option for clydesdale though?
operator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 01:53 AM   #9
wroomwroomoops
Sir Fallalot
 
wroomwroomoops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Bikes:
Posts: 5,276
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ginsoakedboy View Post
Really? So even the high-buck hubs from Chris King, White Industries, Velocity, DT Swiss -- not an improvement over Shimano? That's very helpful to know -- I almost plunked down the long green for some King hubs, and thought I was compromising when I went with XT. Now I feel better (and strangely smarter, somehow). Thanks once again to the great bearded oracle of bicycle knowledge.
Yeah, funny how that works: look at those DT Swiss hubs - $160, $350, $410, $540, $800 or more - and it doesn't matter. It's just a tax on those too rich and stupid to know better.

"ooohhh... but it has ceramic bearings!"

to which I say

"ooohhh... shiny!!"
wroomwroomoops is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 06:18 AM   #10
waterrockets 
Making a kilometer blurry
 
waterrockets's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Austin (near TX)
Bikes: rkwaki's porn collection
Posts: 26,130
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops View Post
Yeah, funny how that works: look at those DT Swiss hubs - $160, $350, $410, $540, $800 or more - and it doesn't matter. It's just a tax on those too rich and stupid to know better.

"ooohhh... but it has ceramic bearings!"

to which I say

"ooohhh... shiny!!"
Yeah, the only real argument is weight, as those White Ind F1s are some freaking light hubs. Then you go evaluate the benefit of light hubs, and it starts looking ******** again. Still, they are lighter, by 100% or more.
waterrockets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 07:27 AM   #11
Little Darwin
The Improbable Bulk
 
Little Darwin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA
Bikes: Many
Posts: 8,402
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterrockets View Post
Yeah, the only real argument is weight, as those White Ind F1s are some freaking light hubs. Then you go evaluate the benefit of light hubs, and it starts looking ******** again. Still, they are lighter, by 100% or more.
And saving half the weight of a hub is virtually useless to us clydesdales... Do the expensive hubs even come drilled for 36 spokes?
__________________
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA

People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Little Darwin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 07:36 AM   #12
waterrockets 
Making a kilometer blurry
 
waterrockets's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Austin (near TX)
Bikes: rkwaki's porn collection
Posts: 26,130
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Darwin View Post
And saving half the weight of a hub is virtually useless to us clydesdales... Do the expensive hubs even come drilled for 36 spokes?
hell noes! 32h max. I think a lightweight hub adds virtually no value for any adult
waterrockets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 07:44 AM   #13
Air
Destroyer of Wheels
Thread Starter
 
Air's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Creating some FA-Qs
Bikes: Nishiki Sport, Downtube IXNS, 1950's MMB3 Russian Folding Bike, MTB
Posts: 3,598
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
The spinning mass of a light vs heavy hub wouldn't even matter all that much, would it?

I'll lose the 235 grams off my arse and spend the rest on beer, thank you very much
__________________
The Almighty Clyde FAQ || Northeast Index
eTrex Vista References || Road Reference


It's the year of the enema!
Air is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 07:49 AM   #14
tellyho
Your mom
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 2,541
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
+1000. Take the $$ you were going to spend on a hub and get a bomber rim instead. That's what you're likely to kill as a Clyde.
tellyho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 07:52 AM   #15
Air
Destroyer of Wheels
Thread Starter
 
Air's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Creating some FA-Qs
Bikes: Nishiki Sport, Downtube IXNS, 1950's MMB3 Russian Folding Bike, MTB
Posts: 3,598
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Yup, think the Deep Vs are going to be bomb proof and I can go to narrower tires.
__________________
The Almighty Clyde FAQ || Northeast Index
eTrex Vista References || Road Reference


It's the year of the enema!
Air is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 09:37 AM   #16
Sheldon Brown
Gone, but not forgotten
 
Sheldon Brown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newtonville, Massachusetts
Bikes: See: http://sheldonbrown.org/bicycles
Posts: 2,301
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterrockets View Post
Yeah, the only real argument is weight, as those White Ind F1s are some freaking light hubs. Then you go evaluate the benefit of light hubs, and it starts looking ******** again. Still, they are lighter, by 100% or more.
Be careful...it's easy to get fooled. Boutique hubs are generally supplied (and weighed!) without skewers, while Shimano hubs include the skewers!

If you just look at the specs, it makes the weight difference appear considerably greater than it really is.

It also makes the cost difference appear less than it really is, since you still have to buy a skewer to go with your boutique hub.

Shimano makes the best skewers in the world, and they come included with the hubs!

See also: http://sheldonbrown.com/qr

Sheldon "Don't Get Skewered By Deceptive Marketing" Brown
Sheldon Brown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 10:17 AM   #17
krash
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Bikes:
Posts: 84
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
FWIW heavier riders break wheels due to improper spoke tension and spokes breaking at the elbow 99% of the time. You are unlikely to damage the hub from just riding it or even abuse offroad until you've nearly rebuilt the wheel's worth of spokes.

I would suggest straight 14ga spokes, get a good spoke to begin with (DT, Wheelsmith, Phil Wood), and IMHO, any hub with STRAIGHT PULL spokes is going to potentially result in a much more durable wheel.

In the past 6 or 7 years of my more serious cycling, through about 6 wheel sets, wheels I built, factory built, etc. the only wheels that didn't break spokes regularly were those without elbows in the spokes. I have broken exactly one elbowless spoke in this time period, and probably 30 or more regular spokes.

Given that, I think the benefits of a hub that accommodates straight pull spokes far outweighs whatever factors in hub weight, durability etc. may be present, for heavier riders.
krash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 11:01 AM   #18
waterrockets 
Making a kilometer blurry
 
waterrockets's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Austin (near TX)
Bikes: rkwaki's porn collection
Posts: 26,130
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown View Post
Be careful...it's easy to get fooled. Boutique hubs are generally supplied (and weighed!) without skewers, while Shimano hubs include the skewers!

If you just look at the specs, it makes the weight difference appear considerably greater than it really is.

It also makes the cost difference appear less than it really is, since you still have to buy a skewer to go with your boutique hub.

Shimano makes the best skewers in the world, and they come included with the hubs!

See also: http://sheldonbrown.com/qr

Sheldon "Don't Get Skewered By Deceptive Marketing" Brown
That's a very good point. An Ultegra rear weighs 350g w/out skewer. An F1 weighs 226g. The value of 124g is certainly overplayed though.

And I'll never use a skewer other than a Shimano Of course, I only have Shimano hubs at this point.
waterrockets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 11:04 AM   #19
barba
Senior Member
 
barba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 4,083
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown View Post
Shimano makes the best skewers in the world, and they come included with the hubs!
Shimano skewers are reason enough to buy the hub. They are also much quieter when coasting than many other hubs.
barba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 12:03 PM   #20
wroomwroomoops
Sir Fallalot
 
wroomwroomoops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Bikes:
Posts: 5,276
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
They may be good skewers, but I use bolt-on skewers almost exclusively, and mostly special-keyed, to lessen the likelyhood of theft. Or was it likelihood...
wroomwroomoops is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 02:54 PM   #21
WNG
Spin Forest! Spin!
 
WNG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Arrid Zone-a
Bikes: I used to have many. And I Will again.
Posts: 5,967
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops View Post
They may be good skewers, but I use bolt-on skewers almost exclusively, and mostly special-keyed, to lessen the likelyhood of theft. Or was it likelihood...
I also prefer security skewers for my urban bike. Makes for less hassles when simply running into a retailer to shop.

Too bad most aren't going to stop a determined professional thief. They should use security torx sockets instead of simply hex.
And the outer collar should be floating so that it rotates freely if a visegrip is applied.

Speaking of skewers, has any company thought of the idea of making the skewer lever double as a tire iron?
I know one company made their seatpost binder into a tire iron.
WNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 04:04 PM   #22
Hocam
Ho-Jahm
 
Hocam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Manchester, NH
Bikes:
Posts: 4,228
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
I've seen bolt on wheels stolen as well as quick release. QR has the added benefit of being able to take off your front and lock it with a U lock through the rear wheel inside the rear triangle of the frame, where as you need a wrench to accomplish the same task with the security torx (which are easily defeated by vice grips) or bolt on.
Hocam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 04:38 PM   #23
TimJ
Senior Member
 
TimJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 1,955
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown View Post
I do strongly advise staying away from off brand or "boutique" hubs. In my opinion, the only hubs that are better than Shimano are Phil Wood, which are super 'spensive.
I'm curious in what way(s) do you consider a shimano hub better than a king hub, for instance? Or is that something you'd not care to expand on for risk of coming to blows with Mr. King?

I have no opinion on king hubs myself, far too poor, I'm just curious.
__________________
fun facts: Psychopaths have trouble understanding abstract concepts.
"Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."
TimJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 05:20 PM   #24
halfspeed
Senior Member
 
halfspeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SE Minnesota
Bikes: are better than yours.
Posts: 12,276
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by krash View Post
FWIW heavier riders break wheels due to improper spoke tension and spokes breaking at the elbow 99% of the time. You are unlikely to damage the hub from just riding it or even abuse offroad until you've nearly rebuilt the wheel's worth of spokes.

I would suggest straight 14ga spokes, get a good spoke to begin with (DT, Wheelsmith, Phil Wood), and IMHO, any hub with STRAIGHT PULL spokes is going to potentially result in a much more durable wheel.

In the past 6 or 7 years of my more serious cycling, through about 6 wheel sets, wheels I built, factory built, etc. the only wheels that didn't break spokes regularly were those without elbows in the spokes. I have broken exactly one elbowless spoke in this time period, and probably 30 or more regular spokes.

Given that, I think the benefits of a hub that accommodates straight pull spokes far outweighs whatever factors in hub weight, durability etc. may be present, for heavier riders.
You probably wouldn't have so many problems at the elbows if you used butted spokes instead of straight guage.
halfspeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-07, 05:22 PM   #25
barba
Senior Member
 
barba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 4,083
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimJ View Post
I'm curious in what way(s) do you consider a shimano hub better than a king hub, for instance? Or is that something you'd not care to expand on for risk of coming to blows with Mr. King?

I have no opinion on king hubs myself, far too poor, I'm just curious.
The King hubs sound like a swarm of angry bees.
barba is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:17 PM.