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  1. #1
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    Seized Bottom Bracket

    Trying to remove a bottom bracket off a frame, however I could not get it off just with the tool and socket wrench. So I did what Park Tools says, I screwed the tool in to the axle with a bolt and attempted to remove it with a 12 inch adjustable spanner (it's on the drive side, so turned it clockwise). That didn't work so I mounted it a vice but it still wouldn't budge. Is there any other method of removing it (drilling, or any thing else) or is the frame a write off?

  2. #2
    Geek Extraordinaire sivat's Avatar
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    I apologize if you don't need this sort of advice, but just in case; Are you trying to unscrew it counterclockwise? The drive side cup is reverse threaded and needs be be unscrewed clockwise.
    I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

    Sintesi Conversion Serotta Track

  3. #3
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    Yes I'm unscrewing it clockwise. However before I was screwing it anti clockwise which doesn't help matters.

  4. #4
    vasracer
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    Spray the bottom bracket with a penetrating oil and let sit then repeat and lightly band with a hammer, this will allow the oil to seep into the threads and break the rust. Try getting a piece of pipe about 3 feet long that will fit over the handle fo the adjustable wrench. This combined with the length of the wrench will you enough leverage to turn the bottom bracket.

    Word of advice; don't put too much force in the beginning as this could lead you to strip the threads. Do a gentle bouncing up and down motion until you feel it give.

  5. #5
    Senior Member MudPie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyd49 View Post
    ...So I did what Park Tools says, I screwed the tool in to the axle with a bolt and attempted to remove it with a 12 inch adjustable spanner (it's on the drive side, so turned it clockwise). ?
    As vasracer suggested, penetrating oil might be your best friend in this situation. I've had good luck with Liquid Wrench Penetrating oil, but many swear by PB Blaster. I hope the bottom bracket wasn't installed with a threadlocking compound.

    Just to make sure, did you leave a little, visible gap between the bolt and bottom bracket tool? (I'm just thinking out of the box.) Need to provide a little room so the cup can back out.

    I assume if leverage isn't working, you can maybe try an automotive style impact driver. I've never used one on a bicylce, but if all else fails and before you deem the frame a total loss, it might be worth a shot.

  6. #6
    vasracer
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    Another mechanic and I did this once on a bike in which the owner HAD to save the frame. We had trouble keeping the bottom bracket tool in the splines from all the leverage we were putting on it. So, we welded a 28mm bolt(like $5 at hardware store) and used the method I described before. since the bottom bottom was garbage it did not matter and since the cup is steel it formed an incredibly strong weld between BB cup and bolt.

    If your do get the bottom bracket out, use some anti-seize on the threads to prevent this from happening in the future.
    Last edited by vasracer; 10-27-07 at 03:15 PM.

  7. #7
    cab horn
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    I think it would be more pertinent to ascertain that the drive side cup is actually reverse threaded.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  8. #8
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    The non drive side came off when turned anticlockwise so surely the drive side would have to be left threaded?

  9. #9
    vasracer
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    Yes or reverse thread meaning you will need to turn it to the right to unscrew it.

  10. #10
    Oil it! sfrider's Avatar
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    Is it an external cup? Pipe wrench.

  11. #11
    Senior Member biker128pedal's Avatar
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    I have used several applications of Power Blaster pentrating lube then I secured the tool in a vise and used the frame as leverage. Once this did not work and I had to cut and drill out the axle then cut the cups. This was a sealed bottom bracket. It was a pain and tool a few evenings but it came out.

    Then get a torque wrench and grease for the next installation.

    Good Fortune.
    Mike
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  12. #12
    * vpiuva's Avatar
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    No one has wondered if this is a French or Italian BB and RH on the DS?

  13. #13
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by vasracer View Post
    Yes
    Actually yeah, the correct answer is No.

    Quote Originally Posted by vpiuva View Post
    No one has wondered if this is a French or Italian BB and RH on the DS?
    Apparently that's what I said. Left side, right hand thread doesn't mean jack crap for the right side.

    It could be left hand or right hand on the right side.

    http://bayimg.com/hAHHOAaBm

    Italian/French = Right hand
    Swiss/Whitworth = Left hand

    All bb's have left hand thread on left side.
    Last edited by operator; 10-27-07 at 07:43 PM.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  14. #14
    Geek Extraordinaire sivat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudPie View Post
    Just to make sure, did you leave a little, visible gap between the bolt and bottom bracket tool? (I'm just thinking out of the box.) Need to provide a little room so the cup can back out.
    On the drive side, the cup doesn't move with respect to the spindle.
    I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

    Sintesi Conversion Serotta Track

  15. #15
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    OK here's my problem now:

    I've got the axle and the bearings out. But I'm confused as to what type of bottom bracket I've got. It's not cartridge, because the splines are not connected to the cup. But it can't be an adjustable cup either because it's got the 20 spline thing (however there was a lockring on the drive side). It's just at one end that the spline remain, and I can't get rid of them. Does any one know of a strategy to get it off?

  16. #16
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    Got pictures?
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

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