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  1. #1
    Senior Member jnvw's Avatar
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    Tips on removing Drive side Pedal

    It removes counter clockwise correct? Left side came off rather easy, but drive side is giving me a headache.

    Any ideas, tips? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Senior Member tobydeemer's Avatar
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    If it's at all modern, then both pedals turn in the same direction for installation and removal. Turn them forward towards the front of the bike to put them on, and turn them backwards to the back of the bike to get them off. You can put the pedal wrench on so that it's slightly above parallel to the cranks, and then pull up on the opposite crank while pushing down on the wrench. Spray some Tri-Flow into the threads from the inner side of the crank arm.

    And then swear at it a little, and you should be good to go.
    ------------------------------
    I'm probably slower than you.

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    Best way is to do it on the ground with wheels and tires on. Put wrench on so it is behind the BB and the pedal is forward and use your foot to push down. No pedal can resist unless it has been welded there.

  4. #4
    WNG
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    Spin Forest! Spin! WNG's Avatar
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    If the threads weren't first coated with an anti-seize compound before installation, then try spraying some PB Blaster on the area and let it soak in for a 1/2 hour. You can use WD40 but it's not as effective.

    A small can of PB Blaster and jar of Permatex Anti-Seize should be part of every home mechanic's list of must-haves.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnvw View Post
    Any ideas, tips? Thanks in advance.
    I have a tip. Put the chain onto the big chainring before you start. That way if the wrench slips you won't injure yourself quite so much.

  6. #6
    Senior Member MudPie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dvs cycles View Post
    Best way is to do it on the ground with wheels and tires on. Put wrench on so it is behind the BB and the pedal is forward and use your foot to push down. No pedal can resist unless it has been welded there.
    Remember, leverage (not whacking with a hammer) is your best friend. Since you have one pedal off, you can slip a large diam pipe over the crank arm. Wrap the crank arm with a rag to protect it. Likewise, you can slip another pipe over the wrench. (I hope you are using a pedal wrench or standard wrench against the flats of the pedal spindle, and not using a hex key (Allen) on the backside of the pedal spindle.)

    When it cracks loose, that be a very satisfying feeling.

    Finally, when you install the pedals, there is no need to use gorilla strength to install it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
    I have a tip. Put the chain onto the big chainring before you start. That way if the wrench slips you won't injure yourself quite so much.
    Forgot to mention that one. Learned that lesson 20 years ago the HARD WAY.

  8. #8
    Senior Member jnvw's Avatar
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    Thanks for the ideas/help. I ended up using some penetrating oil and submerged the bottom of the crank and pedal’s threads without submerging the entire pedal. I did this ‘soak’ for about 14 hours and what do you know, the pedal came right off with normal effort.

  9. #9
    Senior Member dstrong's Avatar
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    Dang...and I was gettin' ready for the "stick of dynamite" suggestion!

    2014 Specialized RoubaixOOOOOO 2003 Interloc ImpalaOOOOOO 2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)


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