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Old 11-07-07, 10:53 PM   #1
mebo
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Tubular Repairs

Has anyone tried to repair the new Continental sprinter tubular?
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Old 11-09-07, 11:35 AM   #2
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Has anyone tried to repair the new Continental sprinter tubular?
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I haven't; have you found a problem compared to other tubulars? Is it new Sprinters v. old ones?

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Old 11-09-07, 07:50 PM   #3
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The new sprinters are just like the old sprinters. The casing and tread are just updated. Its still sewn at the bottom.

The new GP4000 tubulars are like tufos. They are in a seamless carcass and supposedly can't be repaired
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Old 11-10-07, 04:10 PM   #4
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The new sprinters are just like the old sprinters. The casing and tread are just updated. Its still sewn at the bottom.

The new GP4000 tubulars are like tufos. They are in a seamless carcass and supposedly can't be repaired
So, Mebo, based onwhat Nitro says, you repair it the same way as any other sew-up. That said, one recollection i have of early Sprinters is difficulty in getting the seam tape off. I can't say if it's easier now!

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Old 11-10-07, 08:51 PM   #5
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HEY GET THIS-
Try using the white liquid tufo tire sealer that works like slime, it's a helluva lot easier than fixing them and if if it won't seal the hole you probably will have cut/damaged cords anyway. I've salvaged tires I had laying around for years that I didn't want to fix (I hate doing it) and it's sealed flats while I was riding too!!, bad thing is- you need to use tires with removable valves and it won't work for latex tubes, only butyl but...
I now have a pressurized can of sealer made by Vittoria, that blows up the tire (with the valve in place) when you get a flat as well as sealing it and works for latex tubes. I haven't used it yet, my local most trusted expert Steve Loveland says it does work, and you don' tneed to remove the valve ( www.twowheeltransit.com - if you can't find it)

Last edited by pat5319; 11-11-07 at 05:24 PM. Reason: added content
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Old 11-10-07, 10:59 PM   #6
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Why do u ask? there is something not normal in them? Just open it, patch it and sew it back.



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Has anyone tried to repair the new Continental sprinter tubular?
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Old 11-11-07, 09:12 AM   #7
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HEY GET THIS-
Try using the white liquid tufo tire sealer that works like slime, it's a helluva lot easier than fixing them and if if it won't seal the hole you probably will have cut/damaged cords anyway. I've salvaged tires I had laying around for years that I didn't want to fix (I hate doing it) and it's sealed flats while I was riding too!!, bad thing is- it won't work for latex tubes, only butyl but...
I now have a pressurized can of sealer made by Vittoria, that blows up the tire (with the valve in place) when you get a flat as well as sealing it and works for latex tubes. I haven't used it yet, my local most trusted expert Steve Loveland says it does work. ( www.twowheeltransit.com - if you can't find it)
I didn't find it to work, and it clogged the Presta valves.
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Old 11-11-07, 05:22 PM   #8
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Sorry, I forgot to mention you need to use tires that have removeable valves
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Old 11-11-07, 07:49 PM   #9
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Sorry, I forgot to mention you need to use tires that have removeable valves

I had the problem with Tufo tires!!

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Old 11-12-07, 09:46 AM   #10
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more repair details

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Originally Posted by nitropowered View Post
The new sprinters are just like the old sprinters. The casing and tread are just updated. Its still sewn at the bottom.

The new GP4000 tubulars are like tufos. They are in a seamless carcass and supposedly can't be repaired
I guess i didn"t provide enough info on my post.I've been riding tubulars for the past 35 years. I never had a problem with the base tape before.The new sprinter casing has a different type of material.It feels like a rubber material.The older version was a cotton polymide blend. If you hold the older version next to the newer version{the all black tire, including the base tape]you'll see what I mean. There is small cross hatching(like tiny dimples)In the area of the casing where the base tape adheres to. Continental didn"t reply to my emails and Bike tires Direct was of no help. If you google 3m fast tack you'll find that it eats away at latex. The Roberts carpet latex i"ve used before does not adhere to this tire.I am old school, buy quality and repair things till they can't be repaired anymore
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Old 11-12-07, 10:15 PM   #11
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NO clue. but the xtra data helped a lot
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Old 11-13-07, 06:55 AM   #12
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I guess i didn"t provide enough info on my post.I've been riding tubulars for the past 35 years. I never had a problem with the base tape before.The new sprinter casing has a different type of material.It feels like a rubber material.The older version was a cotton polymide blend. If you hold the older version next to the newer version{the all black tire, including the base tape]you'll see what I mean. There is small cross hatching(like tiny dimples)In the area of the casing where the base tape adheres to. Continental didn"t reply to my emails and Bike tires Direct was of no help. If you google 3m fast tack you'll find that it eats away at latex. The Roberts carpet latex i"ve used before does not adhere to this tire.I am old school, buy quality and repair things till they can't be repaired anymore
Thanks, Mebo! I recall having trouble re-attaching the base tape on early Sprinters. Sounds like Conti just made it worse!

That's one reason I embraced the Giro.

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Old 11-14-07, 04:03 PM   #13
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I'm still mad because they discontinued the Triathlon. I've used the old model Sprinters for years for training, but was recently annoyed while trying to mount the new Sprinter. I've seen 2 addtional Sprinter designs in the last year (mostly cosmetics). I struggled getting it on even w/ using the standard warming, stretching tricks. The construction seems heavier and a little stiffer than the older version. I haven't tried to patch one yet.

I've finally switched to Velomax (in the $80 range) even for training. They are easily repaired but are more expensive than the Sprinter (retail from my LBS for about $60).

Good luck and keep us advised on the repair.

p.s. I've been riding sewups since 72 (right about your vintage).
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Old 11-19-07, 10:47 PM   #14
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I'm still mad because they discontinued the Triathlon. I've used the old model Sprinters for years for training, but was recently annoyed while trying to mount the new Sprinter. I've seen 2 addtional Sprinter designs in the last year (mostly cosmetics). I struggled getting it on even w/ using the standard warming, stretching tricks. The construction seems heavier and a little stiffer than the older version. I haven't tried to patch one yet.

I've finally switched to Velomax (in the $80 range) even for training. They are easily repaired but are more expensive than the Sprinter (retail from my LBS for about $60).

Good luck and keep us advised on the repair.

p.s. I've been riding sewups since 72 (right about your vintage).
The way I mount tubulars is as follows: Put two feet on the inside of the tires while standing; pull up with two hands as hard as you can to stretch the casing. Mount it on a spare rim and pump it up to 150 lbs (Conti max is170) Let it sit overnight. Take it off next day,apply rim cement to base tape and rim,wait 8 hours. Then apply a light coat to the rim. Take your shoes off,And with rim valve hole facing up put even pressure down on both sides of the tire while working your way down. When you reach the point where you can't force more of the tire on the rim,flip the rim now so the valve is now down. Put your toes around the nipples and on the rim. Pull the remainder of the tire up and on the rim.Be sure your wearing gloves or baggies on your hands.The latest Conti instructions shows that streching the tires is advised. When changing a tire during a ride i sometimes take my shoes off to mount difficult tires. I've never had a tubular that I couldn't mount. A warning though,some manufacturers may not advise streching. Anyway,I'm still working on the base tape adhesive fix
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Old 11-24-07, 06:59 PM   #15
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The way I mount tubulars is as follows: Put two feet on the inside of the tires while standing; pull up with two hands as hard as you can to stretch the casing. Mount it on a spare rim and pump it up to 150 lbs (Conti max is170) Let it sit overnight. Take it off next day,apply rim cement to base tape and rim,wait 8 hours. Then apply a light coat to the rim. Take your shoes off,And with rim valve hole facing up put even pressure down on both sides of the tire while working your way down. When you reach the point where you can't force more of the tire on the rim,flip the rim now so the valve is now down. Put your toes around the nipples and on the rim. Pull the remainder of the tire up and on the rim.Be sure your wearing gloves or baggies on your hands.The latest Conti instructions shows that streching the tires is advised. When changing a tire during a ride i sometimes take my shoes off to mount difficult tires. I've never had a tubular that I couldn't mount. A warning though,some manufacturers may not advise streching. Anyway,I'm still working on the base tape adhesive fix
I haven't had a tire that tight for a while!

If Jevelot Tire Life won't work for base tape re-attachment, what about contact cement?

My first bike with tubulars was from late in my junior year of high school, early in 1970. They were 250 g latex D'Allessandro Mondiale, on Nisi Mercurio d'Oro rims, if I recall right! The whole bike was said to be NOS from the early-60s, a Rossignoli with FB cranks and a Magistroni bottom bracket - loved it!

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