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Old 11-12-07, 02:31 PM   #1
dr.raleigh
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Headset/Fork Questions?

To start off I have a 2004 Raleigh M20 bike that I would like to replace the headset and forks on. They both have a noticeable amount of play. I know it has a threaded 1 1/8 headset. These are the parts I would like to install, Headset
and Forks
Will these parts work on my bike. Also I think I'll have to cut the steerer on the fork, right? Also are there any other parts I need to make it work? Are there any things I should know? Thanks
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Old 11-12-07, 02:55 PM   #2
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You say that you have a threaded headset, but the link to the one you want to replace it with is a threadless. Is that what you want to do? You are going to have to make sure that the threadless will be able to be pressed into your head tube. See this link for more information. http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127 If you really want to do this you might want to have it done by an experienced mech.
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Old 11-12-07, 03:35 PM   #3
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Yes, I would like to install a thread less headset. What do they have to press into the frame?
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Old 11-12-07, 03:56 PM   #4
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I read the article and understand that the races will need to be pressed in. Couldn't I use a rubber mallet?
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Old 11-12-07, 03:59 PM   #5
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When you switch headsets you need to press the cups of the headset into the headtube of the frame. This is usually done with a special headset press but most people do it with a hammer and a couple of blocks of wood. I am not a fan of doing this way and would recommend you take you frame and new headset to you LBS and have them just press the cups in, everything else you can do yourself.

You will also need to change the stem if your going from a threaded steerer tube to a threadless, as they both use different styles of stems.
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Old 11-12-07, 05:04 PM   #6
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Ok, I think I tap it in, just like when I change wheel bearings on my dirt bike. Do I need any kind of headset spacer, also I don't understand how a thread less headset works, could you give me a link to an article on how it works. I'll get a new stem also because I trying to make my bike more comfy. So if I buy the headset, forks, and stem is that all I need. Also can I cut the fork steerer to length or does the LBS have to do that? thanks
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Old 11-12-07, 05:09 PM   #7
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http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech/fix/...fix_threadless
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Old 11-12-07, 05:33 PM   #8
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Ok, I understand how it works. Will I need headset spacers and will the fork steerer need to be cut?
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Old 11-12-07, 05:34 PM   #9
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yes and yes and you will need a star nut pressed into the steerer tube.
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Old 11-12-07, 05:41 PM   #10
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How do I press a star nut into the steerer tube and how big of a spacer will I need? Also how do I cut the steerer?
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Old 11-12-07, 05:48 PM   #11
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easiest way is with a star nut setter. This tool allows u to set it in straight which will have you a lot of headaches in later on. If i'm home i use a top cap bolt and a hammer and drive it in about 1/4" below my cut.

The spacers you use are all a personal preference on how high or how low you want your bars to be. It's a good idea to set up your front end first(new headset, fork, stem, bars, and wheel) to get an idea of where your bars to be. That will give you an idea of how many spacers you will use. It's also a good idea to get a couple spacers of different widths, this was you can play around with the length of your steerer tube.
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Old 11-12-07, 06:02 PM   #12
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You better be darned sure of the ID of your head tube and the OD of the headset before you go pounding away (since this frame was originally intended to be used with a threaded headset). If it is even a tiny bit off you will be very sorry.
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Old 11-12-07, 06:16 PM   #13
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I don't see why it would be different because its a 1 1/8, or is it likely to be different?
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Old 11-12-07, 06:22 PM   #14
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I'm actually quite surprised that a 2004 Raleigh MTB would have a threaded headset.
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Old 11-12-07, 06:25 PM   #15
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There are still quite a large amount of inexpensive MTB today which are produced with a threaded headset. Parts are inexpensive to keep the cost of production down.
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Old 11-12-07, 06:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.raleigh View Post
I don't see why it would be different because its a 1 1/8, or is it likely to be different?
Probably not but measure anyway. Here's a pretty good DIY headset press. Remove the cups...carefully...with a long screw driver or a drift. Go slow and work evenly around the old set.

You can set the race on the fork with a piece of 1 1/4" copper waste pipe.
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Old 11-12-07, 06:42 PM   #17
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I'm definitely replacing it now. I looked at it and the steerer tube is bent enough for the bearing race to only touch half the ball bearings. Thanks for all your help.
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Old 11-12-07, 07:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.raleigh View Post
I don't see why it would be different because its a 1 1/8, or is it likely to be different?
could be. Your orginal head tube was built to have a threaded head set upper race pressed on the outside of the tube. There is no sure way to see how close to tolerances the inside diameter of the tube is without measuring. If it is a bit too big the threadless headset will not stay in place, if it is bit too small you will ruin the headtube if you try to hammer it in there.
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Old 11-12-07, 07:55 PM   #19
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What do I do if its to big or to small?
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Old 11-12-07, 09:55 PM   #20
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If the tube is too big you might be able to shim the headset. Too small; not sure if you could have it machined out or not without weakening the tube.
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