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  1. #1
    Senior Member Plainsman's Avatar
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    Basic question - swapping a cassette

    This is my frist time swapping a cassette. Old one is off, new one is on. Lockring says 40 n-m. I have no idea how that should feel, so is the torque critical, or do I just hand tighten it and ride?
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  2. #2
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    The torque isn't critical but 40 N-m is 29 ft-lb which is quite a lot. It's way more than hand tight so bear down rather firmly on the locknut tool.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Plainsman's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help HillRider!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plainsman View Post
    This is my frist time swapping a cassette. Old one is off, new one is on. Lockring says 40 n-m. I have no idea how that should feel, so is the torque critical, or do I just hand tighten it and ride?
    It is critical as far as not overtightening. if you under tighten you will probably have the lock ring come loose eventually.
    Get a torque wrench.

  5. #5
    Call me The Breeze I_bRAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dvs cycles View Post
    Get a torque wrench.
    "Good and tight" is just fine for a cassette lockring.

  6. #6
    Your mom
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    Torque wrench is totally unnecessary. Whoops, I shouldn't have said that. Just crank it down.

  7. #7
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dvs cycles View Post
    It is critical as far as not overtightening. if you under tighten you will probably have the lock ring come loose eventually.
    Get a torque wrench.
    The lockring probably won't come loose under normal working conditions unless it's really loose to begin with. I put mine on and tighten so that I hear two or three clicks as it engages with the cassette. You can get it on too tight...trust me
    Stuart Black
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  8. #8
    we are 138 Philatio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
    The lockring probably won't come loose under normal working conditions unless it's really loose to begin with. I put mine on and tighten so that I hear two or three clicks as it engages with the cassette. You can get it on too tight...trust me
    two or three? Is that all? Now I'm worried I've been over tightening....

  9. #9
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    I think it depends on the particular cassette and lockring but I know for sure that 2 or 3 clicks would not be enough on any of my cassettes, not even close.

    For my old arm "quite a bit" is the right answer. And be sure that the smallest cog is properly aligned with the splines.

    Al

  10. #10
    we are 138 Philatio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al1943 View Post
    I think it depends on the particular cassette and lockring but I know for sure that 2 or 3 clicks would not be enough on any of my cassettes, not even close.

    For my old arm "quite a bit" is the right answer. And be sure that the smallest cog is properly aligned with the splines.

    Al
    that makes me feel better. I have an SRAM, and 2 or 3 clicks would be extremely loose. I would estimate that when I tighten it to feel snug enough, roughly 45lb (with 8 in wrench), I hear 20-30 clicks.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philatio View Post
    that makes me feel better. I have an SRAM, and 2 or 3 clicks would be extremely loose. I would estimate that when I tighten it to feel snug enough, roughly 45lb (with 8 in wrench), I hear 20-30 clicks.
    +1
    Mine starts clicking a good 1/2 turn before it gets snug. Maybe 3-4 clicks after "tight".

  12. #12
    vasracer
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    You really can't go by clicks because every cassette is different. We usually put the cassette tool in a vise and spin the wheel on that and continue until it's tight. Maybe it's just me but you get a feeling in your wrist and know when to stop.

  13. #13
    * vpiuva's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    +1
    Mine starts clicking a good 1/2 turn before it gets snug. Maybe 3-4 clicks after "tight".
    +1 Hope this is what cyc intended

  14. #14
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philatio View Post
    that makes me feel better. I have an SRAM, and 2 or 3 clicks would be extremely loose. I would estimate that when I tighten it to feel snug enough, roughly 45lb (with 8 in wrench), I hear 20-30 clicks.
    That's a whole bunch. It doesn't need to be that tight. I keep it on the loose side so that I can remove it in the field if I have to. I have Sram 9 speed too and never found I had to do much more then just snug it up. I never have had one work loose.
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  15. #15
    vasracer
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    The problem with having the cassette loose is 1. the lockring can come off unexpectedly and 2. the cogs can shift slightly and gouge the hub body. These two thing might or might not happen its all a matter of hub body material and cassette combination. But having the lockring loose is never a good idea.

  16. #16
    we are 138 Philatio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
    That's a whole bunch. It doesn't need to be that tight. I keep it on the loose side so that I can remove it in the field if I have to. I have Sram 9 speed too and never found I had to do much more then just snug it up. I never have had one work loose.
    Alright, I'm going to loosen it up. Thanks alot

    edit: I loosened fully and reinstalled. I took it 1/2 a turn after the clicking started. I think I must've been off with the "20-30" clicks - it was roughly the same spot I had it before.

    Anyways, thanks again. Glad to know my stuff is right.
    Last edited by Philatio; 11-13-07 at 03:38 PM.

  17. #17
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by vasracer View Post
    the cogs can shift slightly and gouge the hub body.
    +1

    Loose cogs can damage aluminum freehub bodies as well as rattle annoyingly.

    Al

  18. #18
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vasracer View Post
    The problem with having the cassette loose is 1. the lockring can come off unexpectedly and 2. the cogs can shift slightly and gouge the hub body. These two thing might or might not happen its all a matter of hub body material and cassette combination. But having the lockring loose is never a good idea.
    My lockring isn't loose. But it's doesn't have to be on as tight as you can get on a vise. Once it is threaded on and makes contact with the cassette, I don't find you need to tighten it past about a 1/8 to 1/4 turn. If the cassette rattles or is loose, then certainly it needs to be tightened further. But if the cassette isn't moving, I find you don't need to over do it.
    Stuart Black
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  19. #19
    vasracer
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    I'm no saying your wrong, but you must take into account that a chain puts alot more pressure and tension, side to side, than your hand can ever exert. If the lock ring is just snug and the cassette does not move with a light tug of your hand that does not mean that the chain with not move the cogs on your hub body and tear it apart. It's better to tighten it slightly more and be sure that the cassette will not move at all.

  20. #20
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    What's so hard about getting a torque wrench and using it?
    If you plan on working on your own bike at least be professional about it.
    The old days you could just crank on things and not worry but todays components
    are more fragile and should be torqued properly.
    If you dis agree, I'm sorry. It's your bike and sometimes body that can be damaged.
    Do what you like but a torque wrench IS GOOD ADVICE.

  21. #21
    use your best eye kenhill3's Avatar
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    Hey all- 40 nanometers is indeed 'pretty damn tight'. I use a good torque wrench when really necessary but for this I just don't bother. I've wrenched bikes for like 14 years. Put the spline tool in and secure with a skewer, put a 15" crescent on it and tighten 'pretty damn tight', which usually is about 1/2 turn maximum after hand tight. Done. All parts greased and NEVER an issue with removal.
    "I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." - Kurt Vonnegut jr.

  22. #22
    that bike nut BikingGrad80's Avatar
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    remember to grease the locknut.

  23. #23
    Whatever artemidorus's Avatar
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    I agree with those posters maintaining that 40Nm is much too tight. I use 5-10 Nm routinely and have never had a lockring loosen. I find that if I've had a rear wheel worked on by a mechanic, the next time I go to loosen the lockring, I need to fasten the cassette tool onto the lockring with a skewer to allow me to wield enough force to crack the lockring. 40Nm seems just so unnecessary with steel freehubs. (My comments are not necessarily applicable to alloy freehubs, as I've never used one.)

  24. #24
    use your best eye kenhill3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by artemidorus View Post
    I agree with those posters maintaining that 40Nm is much too tight. I use 5-10 Nm routinely and have never had a lockring loosen. I find that if I've had a rear wheel worked on by a mechanic, the next time I go to loosen the lockring, I need to fasten the cassette tool onto the lockring with a skewer to allow me to wield enough force to crack the lockring. 40Nm seems just so unnecessary with steel freehubs. (My comments are not necessarily applicable to alloy freehubs, as I've never used one.)
    Thanks. You & others have convinced me to back off on the amt. of torque. 40 nm is definitely overkill.
    "I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." - Kurt Vonnegut jr.

  25. #25
    Senior Member Joshua A.C. New's Avatar
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    Kenhill, that's Newton-Meters. N-M. Nm is a terribly small measure of distance.
    Joshua A.C. Newman,
    Passionate lover of construction

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