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  1. #1
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    Integrated Headset (again)

    Hi,

    I'm putting together a rather inexpensive (Performance Scatante on sale)frameset which includes a 1 1/8
    integrated headset. I'm trying to confirm how to assemble it. It's dustcover
    says Cane Creek ...Aheadset. It is a cup, cone and caged ball bearing type.

    The outer cups are a drop fit into the 41mm ID flared headtube seats. Then the
    caged ball bearing is inserted. Next the inner cone ring. There is also a formed
    rubber ring that acts as a dirt/dust/water seal to the bearings.

    The headset parts also include the dust cap, the stem cap, star nut, Allen head screw, 2- .010 (.254mm) thick spacers 1 1/8 ID 1.357 inch OD, a fork crown race, and a split flanged ring.

    Since I have the inner bearing cup, do I need the Fork Crown Race installed?
    The crown race does not contact any bearings, but contacts the lower inner
    bearing cup. The flange on the crown race appears to mate well with the inner
    surface of the cone bearing cup?

    The fork seems to trial assemble w/o hitting the lower part of the headtube
    without the crown race. The crown race would appear to insure the fork crown would
    never rub aqainst the headtube. The crown race is definitely a press fit onto
    the machined lower section of the steerer.

    Question 2: What are the two 1 1/8 ID .010 thick shim spacers for?

    Question 3: What is the split flanged ring for? I suspect it is placed inside the
    top end bearing cone cup (it is a good fit like the fork crown race), on top of which goes the dust cap with the Cane
    Creek lettering. It's function could be to provide more clearance between
    the dust cap and the outer bearing cup.

    Any response would be appreciated. I could take a photo of the parts if it would
    be more helpful. I searched previous threads on the subject and the link to the Park Tools explanation of the different integrated headsets is helpful.

    Thanks,
    Sinchi

  2. #2
    Senior Member RockyMtnMerlin's Avatar
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    Try this link to see if there is a manual for the headset that you have. http://www.canecreek.com/headset-manuals.html If there is it will tell you what you need to know. If there isn't call Cane Creek, You get to talk to a real person. Lastly, ask Performance Bicycle guys IF there is a store locally.
    p.s. There is also a FAQ section on the Cane Creek website.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Hi RockyMtnMerlin,

    Thanks for the suggestions. I found the answers to my questions although the
    manual for my particular headset model was not listed. (The crown race ring is always used and is press fit onto the steerer at the fork crown; the split ring is called a compression ring and goes on top of the upper bearing assembly; the shim spacer is placed above the compression ring)

    The FAQ section gave helpful information for setting the starnut depth.
    It also stated the Cane Creek Aheadset headset that I have was the first
    integrated headset that Cane Creek offered; all the latest headsets use cartridge
    bearings which contain the outer race, balls, inner race, seal, lubricant in
    one unit, instead of 4 separate parts as in my headset.

    Is the starnet easy to set alligned properly without a special tool?

    Thanks,
    Sinchi

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by stonooka View Post
    Is the starnet easy to set alligned properly without a special tool?
    Sinchi
    What is your fork steerer tube made of? If it's carbon you must not use a starnut. Use a compression plug.

    If the steerer is steel or aluminum, the starnut is ok but they may use different starnuts as Al steerer tubes usually have thicker walls. Park makes a specific starnut setting tool but they can be placed with out one.

    Thread a suitable 50 mm long or so bolt into the starnut (the flanges must point up) and hold it centered over the steerer with the fork padded and supported. Hammer on the bolt head to start the nut into the steerer, being careful to keep it centered. When the top flange is just below flush with the steerer top, remove the bolt, add the headset's top cap as a centering guide and thread the bolt back throught the top cap and into the starnut again. Then drive the bolt down the additional distance to locate the satarnut properly. The usual recommendation is 15 mm below flush.

  5. #5
    Senior Member RockyMtnMerlin's Avatar
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    Once again HillRider is the man. I could not have answered this though, as I went directly from a quill set up to a full carbon steerer (Basso fork to Ozou fork). I now have a Look HSC 5 SL fork.

  6. #6
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    Integrated headset again

    Thanks Hillrider,

    Your method for installing the starnut makes good sense. Yes, I have an aluminum steerer so your method applies.

    I'm coming from a heavy somewhat vintage steel lugged cross bike with a 1" threaded quill headset. Its a great all around bike but at 27 pounds a little much for the more challenging hills in our area. This new aluminum frameset will be, coincidentally, my "hillrider".

    Sinchi

  7. #7
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
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    Look at the Park Tool site on the page about headsets.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

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