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  1. #1
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
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    need help setting up Avid Shorty 4 cantilevers

    Hi,
    I'm trying to put Avid Shorty 4 cantilever brakes on a Nashbar touring frame using aero brake levers (non shifting). I need a cable stop of some sort don't I? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated because I don't know what sort of cable stop to get or even where it would mount for both the front and rear of the bike?

    thanks in advance.

    Ian
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)
    --------------------------------------
    Training: '90 Bridgestone RB-1, '11 BMC SR02, '09 Kestrel Evoke, MTB: '89 SuperGo Access Comp (rigid), '07 Access (rigid), Touring: '10 Windsor, SS: 1942 BFG Victory coaster brake, 70s Zebrakenko, Muscle bike: '75 Huffy Stars&Stripes, Rats:, '41 Schwinn DX, '36 Westfield Seminole, '46 Monark Super Deluxe

  2. #2
    Senior Member kenshinvt's Avatar
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    Yes, you need cable stops where the cable exits the housing at a centered point above the yoke. On the front of the frame you will need to use a housing stop that mounts to the headset. On the rear of the frame you can use one that attaches to a seatpost bolt. If it is a touring frame, their may be a housing stop built into the frame. Here are an example of the two stops I've mentioned -
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/c...tml#centerpull

  3. #3
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
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    oh ok, i've seen those before. thanks much for the suggestion. i gotta say i'm a little bummed that i let my friend talk me out of v-brakes and into the cantis. it seems much more elegant and simple to not need the add-on cable stops. will the cantis be stronger than v-brakes? seems to me v-brakes would be plenty of power.
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)
    --------------------------------------
    Training: '90 Bridgestone RB-1, '11 BMC SR02, '09 Kestrel Evoke, MTB: '89 SuperGo Access Comp (rigid), '07 Access (rigid), Touring: '10 Windsor, SS: 1942 BFG Victory coaster brake, 70s Zebrakenko, Muscle bike: '75 Huffy Stars&Stripes, Rats:, '41 Schwinn DX, '36 Westfield Seminole, '46 Monark Super Deluxe

  4. #4
    Senior Member kenshinvt's Avatar
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    Yeah it's a little messy to have to use the stops but it's not that big of a deal. Make sure that you don't forget to buy some barrel adjusters (those stops are a good place to put them) if you don't have them already.

    I believe your friend was correct to talk you out of the V-brakes. They are not compatible with aero brake levers--you have to use mtb style brake levers because of the cable pull required. So for a touring bike, you would want to stick with cantis.

  5. #5
    use your best eye kenhill3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenshinvt View Post
    I believe your friend was correct to talk you out of the V-brakes. They are not compatible with aero brake levers--you have to use mtb style brake levers because of the cable pull required. So for a touring bike, you would want to stick with cantis.
    Not entirely true. You can use the road brake levers (aero levers) with v brakes with the addition of Travel Agents:

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...vel+Agent.aspx
    "I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." - Kurt Vonnegut jr.

  6. #6
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
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    thanks Kenshinvt... i'll suck it up and do what i have to do to make the cantis work if i know they will be worth it and are the wiser choice without using the adapter that kenhll3 suggests.
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)
    --------------------------------------
    Training: '90 Bridgestone RB-1, '11 BMC SR02, '09 Kestrel Evoke, MTB: '89 SuperGo Access Comp (rigid), '07 Access (rigid), Touring: '10 Windsor, SS: 1942 BFG Victory coaster brake, 70s Zebrakenko, Muscle bike: '75 Huffy Stars&Stripes, Rats:, '41 Schwinn DX, '36 Westfield Seminole, '46 Monark Super Deluxe

  7. #7
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
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    ok so here's what it looks like so far. the brake feel isn't great. i found a cable stop in my toolbox from an old mountain bike. I'm thinking about lengthing it to make the cable go more direct. My friend said I'm using too much cable housing but I did that to lessen the severity of the transitions and give a gentler arc. He said to shorten it anyway. Once I lengthen the cable stop I should be able to shorten and go more direct.



    also, check out this great and inexpensive ($9) cable cutter I found last night at a craft store (Michael's) while looking for jewelry making supplies. They work great, really clean cuts.


    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)
    --------------------------------------
    Training: '90 Bridgestone RB-1, '11 BMC SR02, '09 Kestrel Evoke, MTB: '89 SuperGo Access Comp (rigid), '07 Access (rigid), Touring: '10 Windsor, SS: 1942 BFG Victory coaster brake, 70s Zebrakenko, Muscle bike: '75 Huffy Stars&Stripes, Rats:, '41 Schwinn DX, '36 Westfield Seminole, '46 Monark Super Deluxe

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