Confused on Stress Relieving Spokes
#1
that bike nut
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Confused on Stress Relieving Spokes
I have a quick question on Stress relieving. I know you are supposed to "grab pairs of parallel spokes and squeeze them together hard." Does that mean parallel spokes on the same side of the hub and squeeze them towards each other , ie squeeze parallel to the rim, or parallel spoke on opposite sides of the wheel and squeeze them towards each other,ie squeeze parallel to the axle?
#4
Senior Member
Lay the wheel on the ground, step on one side of rim, with the other foot, apply pressure slowly to the other side of the wheel until the rim just starts to flex. Be gentle. You will hear pings and pops.
Rotate wheel 90 degress and repeat.
Flip wheel over and repeat above.
Retrue wheel.
Repeat the truing and stressing until you can stand on the wheel and it doesn't go out of true. A wheel stressed like this will last for years of normal riding without re-truing.
Rotate wheel 90 degress and repeat.
Flip wheel over and repeat above.
Retrue wheel.
Repeat the truing and stressing until you can stand on the wheel and it doesn't go out of true. A wheel stressed like this will last for years of normal riding without re-truing.
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
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1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#5
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Lay the wheel on the ground, step on one side of rim, with the other foot, apply pressure slowly to the other side of the wheel until the rim just starts to flex. Be gentle. You will hear pings and pops.
Rotate wheel 90 degress and repeat.
Flip wheel over and repeat above.
Retrue wheel.
Repeat the truing and stressing until you can stand on the wheel and it doesn't go out of true. A wheel stressed like this will last for years of normal riding without re-truing.
Rotate wheel 90 degress and repeat.
Flip wheel over and repeat above.
Retrue wheel.
Repeat the truing and stressing until you can stand on the wheel and it doesn't go out of true. A wheel stressed like this will last for years of normal riding without re-truing.
Repeating till it doesn't go out of true, like you said, that's the key and the telling truth of successful stress relieving.
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#6
Senior Member
The whole key is to apply force firmly but slowly until the rim just starts to flex laterally.
I tried the squeezing method and it didn't work very well and left my hands very sore.
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#7
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I am a bit heavy I'd worry about damaging the wheel. I prefer the squeeze method I got pretty strong hands.
#8
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besides if you lie the wheel on the ground like that wouldn't you damage the ends of the axle?
#9
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Here's a copy of another post I made about the method I use for stress relieving:
+1 on stressing/stress relieving. I don't do it on the ground like San Rensho, I have a wooden stool in the shop with a hole for the axle in the middle of the seat, same thing - I apply gentle pressure, then turn 90deg. and so on, then flip wheel over and do the other side. While it's in the stand I also go around the wheel and squeeze spokes together real hard (at least until they're digging into your hands good).
Also for stress relieving, when you're doing a new wheel build, use the plastic handle end of a screwdriver and, while in the stand, push on the spoke crossings all around.
Sidenote: I once met a husband and wife team who built wheels as a living, wheelbuilding was ALL they did. Well, I work as a carpenter and I have rough calloused hands, but these folks' were totally unbelievable.
+1 on stressing/stress relieving. I don't do it on the ground like San Rensho, I have a wooden stool in the shop with a hole for the axle in the middle of the seat, same thing - I apply gentle pressure, then turn 90deg. and so on, then flip wheel over and do the other side. While it's in the stand I also go around the wheel and squeeze spokes together real hard (at least until they're digging into your hands good).
Also for stress relieving, when you're doing a new wheel build, use the plastic handle end of a screwdriver and, while in the stand, push on the spoke crossings all around.
Sidenote: I once met a husband and wife team who built wheels as a living, wheelbuilding was ALL they did. Well, I work as a carpenter and I have rough calloused hands, but these folks' were totally unbelievable.
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#10
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Do it on a piece of plywood or carpet or whatever.
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#11
Senior Member
If you are timid about my method, use kenhill's. Both our methods are essentially the same and mimick the forces put on a wheel when you actually ride.
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#13
Senior Member
The goal here is to improve (shorten) the path the spoke takes from the hub to the rim. With a good fit between hub and spoke, there will be a bend near the hub. When the wheel is untensioned, the rubber hammer trick above is a good one, but just bending with thumb pressure should do it. Next best is the parallel spoke squeeze, suitable for tensioned wheels and for finishing after the untensioned bend. The "lay it on its side" method is at best an indirect method, as it involves the rim and axle, and there is unnecessary risk to the hub and rim. It does look impressive to the customer, especially if you get a good 'ploink' from the wheel.
Yes on the leather gloves, especially when building with aero spokes! I had wicked callouses when I worked in the biz, and if I had a busy week of wheel builds my forearms would be on fire.
Yes on the leather gloves, especially when building with aero spokes! I had wicked callouses when I worked in the biz, and if I had a busy week of wheel builds my forearms would be on fire.
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But yeah, pairs of spokes on the same side of the hub.
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I have a quick question on Stress relieving. I know you are supposed to "grab pairs of parallel spokes and squeeze them together hard." Does that mean parallel spokes on the same side of the hub and squeeze them towards each other , ie squeeze parallel to the rim, or parallel spoke on opposite sides of the wheel and squeeze them towards each other,ie squeeze parallel to the axle?
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating