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  1. #1
    Membar subcultro's Avatar
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    Bottom Bracket Help

    If anyone would be so kind as to telling me how to remove this piece of @$!# bottom bracket I'd be much obliged. It would make my Christmas. Here are the pictures of it. Drive train side first, then the other side second. The 2nd side used to have a washer on it that just screwed off. Am I suppose to just take the washer off the drive train side? Thanks.




  2. #2
    cab horn
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    You need a park pin tool for the left. And the right a vice. Let's hope none of those cups are seized.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  3. #3
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    Also the right side is left hand threaded. Roger

  4. #4
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    The "washer" you removed is a lock ring, which secures the adjustable cup after the preload on the bearings is adjusted correctly. The other side is the fixed cup, they're typically more difficult to remove than the adjustable cup unless the corrosion is so bad that everything is frozen up. And even though it's already been said in the above post, I'll say again: don't forget that the fixed cup side is reverse threaded.

    Here's the tool that's needed for the adjustable cup (the other end is for the fixed cup, but there are better ways to loosen the fixed cup, such as a vice as mentioned above):
    http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...racket%2FPedal

    If the fixed cup is really stuck, I'd recommend the homeade tool Sheldon describes here (scroll down to the section titled "fixed cup tools"):
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

    That tool just plain works for the most stubborn fixed cups. I've found that carefully placed hammer blows to the end of the wrench are sometimes necessary
    to break the cup loose, however.

    I would highly recommend using a penetrating oil such as PB Blaster for this, also. I've soaked badly stuck fixed cups for as much as a week before I could break them loose-
    Last edited by well biked; 12-24-07 at 08:03 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bikedued's Avatar
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    As old as that frame looks, wouldn't there be a possibility of an opposite threaded fixed cup? It's rare but it happens. It also looks like a heavy dose of penetrating oil would be in order here. I'd let it soak a couple of days with some PB Blaster on it. That stuff will almost remove the parts for you.,,,,BD

    What make is the frame?
    The one good thing about black cork wrap is that it's better than nothing.

  6. #6
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    One way to tell for sure if it's English threaded (reverse thread driveside, standard thread on the other) is if the numbers 1.37 x 24 are stamped on the cups anywhere.

  7. #7
    Membar subcultro's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the replies everyone. For those that are curious, its a Fuji Gran Tourer. Not sure of the year. It's a buddy's fixed gear conversion that I'm doing an overhaul of. I've never taken a bike completely apart and reassembled it, so this is quite the learning process. I might just ask the LBS to take the BB apart for me... I don't know if I want to spend money on a tool I'll just probably use once considering none of my bikes have this type of bottom bracket.

    On another note, once I remove this BB can I easily just put in a more modern ISIS BB? Thanks.

  8. #8
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by subcultro View Post
    On another note, once I remove this BB can I easily just put in a more modern ISIS BB? Thanks.
    Yes. Since you say the bike is a Fuji, that confirms it's an English threaded bottom bracket. So for the new bb, you'll need a 68mm bb with the appropriate spindle length for the crankset you use-

  9. #9
    Senior Member Deanster04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikedued View Post
    As old as that frame looks, wouldn't there be a possibility of an opposite threaded fixed cup? It's rare but it happens. It also looks like a heavy dose of penetrating oil would be in order here. I'd let it soak a couple of days with some PB Blaster on it. That stuff will almost remove the parts for you.,,,,BD

    What make is the frame?
    Penetrating oil...a good dose and it might take more than a couple of days. Good luck.

  10. #10
    A little North of Hell
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    diy

    Quote Originally Posted by subcultro View Post
    I might just ask the LBS to take the BB apart for me... I don't know if I want to spend money on a tool I'll just probably use once considering none of my bikes have this type of bottom bracket.
    Use a vise like operator said for the drive side and nut/bolt/washer deal
    like well biked indicated.
    =free, no tools to be purchased+money saved not going to the LBS.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    XXXI

  11. #11
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soil_Sampler View Post
    Use a vise like operator said for the drive side and nut/bolt/washer deal
    like well biked indicated.
    =free, no tools to be purchased+money saved not going to the LBS.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

    That's a very good suggestion. I should have mentioned in my earlier post that the bottom bracket tool Sheldon describes can be used for the adjustable cup as well as the fixed cup-

  12. #12
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by subcultro View Post
    Thanks for all the replies everyone. For those that are curious, its a Fuji Gran Tourer. Not sure of the year. It's a buddy's fixed gear conversion that I'm doing an overhaul of. I've never taken a bike completely apart and reassembled it, so this is quite the learning process. I might just ask the LBS to take the BB apart for me... I don't know if I want to spend money on a tool I'll just probably use once considering none of my bikes have this type of bottom bracket.

    On another note, once I remove this BB can I easily just put in a more modern ISIS BB? Thanks.
    I might be totally off base here, but the frame condition doesn't look like it warrants a spending money on upgrading it to modern parts - if that is the case.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Bikedued's Avatar
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    Cosmetic problem only, in my opinion. Stripped to bare metal and repainted, it's really not an issue. Unless of course the frame strength is compromised, and it doesn't look that bad.,,,,BD
    The one good thing about black cork wrap is that it's better than nothing.

  14. #14
    barnfullagts
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    BB cup removal

    On the drive side it works best to put the wrench on the cup and than stack enough washers over the spindle so you can get the nut/bolt back onto the spindle to hold the wrench in place tightly. Then use a 4' piece of pipe for added leverage on the wrench when torquing it off. if all else fails and it's seized you may need to heat it up the cups with a torch to aid in braking down the oxidation before trying it again. Used these methods in a bike shop for years. Never had one we couldn't get out.
    GT's in the barn: 67 and counting.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    IF you aren't concerned about saving the parts, you could probably (after soaking in penetrating oil for a few hours) remove-
    the adjustable cup by using a hammer and small chisel (nail?). Engage the "pin holes" and start lightly tapping in the direction of removal. Alternate sides.
    On the drive side, a big crescent wrench or water pump pliers might work.

  16. #16
    rebmeM roineS JanMM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    IF you aren't concerned about saving the parts, you could probably (after soaking in penetrating oil for a few hours) remove-
    the adjustable cup by using a hammer and small chisel (nail?). Engage the "pin holes" and start lightly tapping in the direction of removal. Alternate sides.
    On the drive side, a big crescent wrench or water pump pliers might work.
    A nail set and hammer will work on the adjustable cup. Tends to ruin the holes, as suggested.

  17. #17
    Your mom
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    Be careful with the Sheldon tool if you want to reuse the bb cups. Which it looks like you don't. So I'll shut up.

    I like to use a 25" breaker bar with the Sheldon tool. Frame upright on ground, foot on chainstays, Bar @ ~45 degrees from vertical, and crank. You can even stomp on it.

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