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Old 12-27-07, 07:43 PM   #1
HJR
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Campy Ultra Torque Crank Help Needed

Hello all,

I recently added a 2005 C50 to my little stable. I am looking to move my compenents over but am having trouble removing the Ultra Torque Crank. I am using a 10mm and turning counter clockwise. I had a reputable shop install it about a year and a half ago, so I am assuming they used a torque wrench and didn't over tighten it. I have been applying some serious pressure but no luck.

Is there a step I am missing?

Or do I just need to keep up with the old elbow grease?

Any suggestions on how to get this crank disassembled would be welcomed.

Thank you in advance for any and all assistance.
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Old 12-27-07, 08:06 PM   #2
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Are you turning from the correct side. The bolt goes in from the driveside
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Old 12-27-07, 08:38 PM   #3
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What i think it happened is that the LBS guys put osme super dupper thread lock compound to the bolt. Well if thats the case u'll need a big ass lever thing to take the bolt off.
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Old 12-27-07, 09:39 PM   #4
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What i think it happened is that the LBS guys put osme super dupper thread lock compound to the bolt. Well if thats the case u'll need a big ass lever thing to take the bolt off.
I hope the dumbass didn't add locktight. There is a thrust washer that goes on the bolt that adds 1300lbs of force once torqued to spec. If installed properly it will NEVER come loose.

There is only one way to take it apart and you seem to be doing it. Use a quality 10mm allen key and give'er.
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Old 12-28-07, 12:59 AM   #5
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In the Campy manual that comes with the cranks directly after where it talks about the 1300 lbs of force it states that Blue Loctite 222 can be used freely on that bolt to prevent oxidation.
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Old 12-28-07, 02:26 AM   #6
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In the Campy manual that comes with the cranks directly after where it talks about the 1300 lbs of force it states that Blue Loctite 222 can be used freely on that bolt to prevent oxidation.
Campagnolo has since recanted on that (driven by howls of protest from the engineers). This information was first passed on at the in-house product launch. I guess the manuals were already printed. There is certainly no harm in using Loctite 222 but anti-seize or grease is favoured by those who designed the system.
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Old 12-28-07, 08:50 AM   #7
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You're going to need more than just a long 10mm hex wrench. You'll need some leverage, I use a long beam torque wrench for extra leverage to loosen & tighten the bolt. It may be up to 60-70Nm installed.
'
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Old 12-28-07, 09:28 AM   #8
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You're going to need more than just a long 10mm hex wrench. You'll need some leverage, I use a long beam torque wrench for extra leverage to loosen & tighten the bolt. It may be up to 60-70Nm installed.
'
Is there something here that I don't understand? Why would someone tighten that fixing bolt to 60-70nm when the instructions say 42nm?
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Old 12-28-07, 09:57 AM   #9
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Loctite 222 is not enough to make this hard to remove and there is little to no difference in saying they suggest anti-seize, grease or 222. Blue loctite is used on bicycles to insure things don't come apart when you don't want them to but it also used so they will come apart when you need them to. It prevents corrosion between the materials and on something torqued to the spec of this bolt it is not what is keeping the OP from removing the bolt. That doesn't mean it isn't possible that the wrong loctite could have been used but I doubt it.

The spec for 222 is to break loose between 8-22Nm (on an M10 screw) which with a normal sized ratchet/wrench handle is not that much force. You will need some leverage though, a 10mm hex won't do it. A good torque wrench or if you have the campy UT removal tool then I think you could use a nice long ratchet or wrench. Still be careful around your frame its easy to slip and scratch something up with the big wrenches.
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Old 12-28-07, 11:50 AM   #10
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Thanks everyone. With a long wrench and whole lot of force and swearing I got it off this morning. Now unfortunately they did the same thing to the cups and they are now stripped.

I really hate the monkey who did this work right now.

I am going to buy some new cups for the C50 but I don't know how I will get the cups off the old frame.
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Old 12-28-07, 12:12 PM   #11
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At least the cups aren't that expensive, still don't blame you for being aggravated. So the "notches" on the cups themselves stripped out?

If I can think of a way to do that...

If they torqued the cups down hard then they did jam you pretty good and it makes it very clear to only hand tighten them and emphasizes not overtightening.
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Old 12-28-07, 01:48 PM   #12
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At least the cups aren't that expensive, still don't blame you for being aggravated. So the "notches" on the cups themselves stripped out?

If I can think of a way to do that...

If they torqued the cups down hard then they did jam you pretty good and it makes it very clear to only hand tighten them and emphasizes not overtightening.
To be exactly clear, Campy UT instructions say to hand tighten the cups only if you are using loctite 222. If you are not, the cups need to be torqued to 35nm. The notches hold up just fine. If you don't use the loctite and are afraid of scratching the cups with the tool, use a sandwich bag over nothces, slide the wrench on and tighten.

It sounds to me like the guys who installed this UT crankset did not even bother to read the isntructions when it came to torquing and you should be bringing it to their attention.
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Old 12-28-07, 02:09 PM   #13
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For that method is still says "when loctitie222 is not available" which to me is a way of saying that its not optimal.

I like your idea of using the bag to protect the teeth on the cups but if you are using one of the wrenches (what is it BBT-9 or the campy equivalent) how do you check the torque? My guess is park or somebody makes a tool that fits the teeth on the cups so that you could use a standard torque wrench. Still I think its cheaper in the long run to buy a tube of 222 squirt it on the threads and use the tools you already have (hands) to put it on.
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Old 12-28-07, 02:35 PM   #14
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I went with anti-sieze as I have a Ti frame. Addtionally, no one in my town had loctite 222. Ordering would have required a four day wait to get it.

Park tool BBT-19 is used on the cups which fits onto a 3/8 in drive torque wrench.

To OP, too late now but you did know that BOTH cups loosen by turning toward the front of the bike, right?
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Old 12-28-07, 02:44 PM   #15
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Have you had any trouble with using anti-seize on the UT cups?

I experimented using ti-prep (finish line brand) and also loctite on the old square taper campy BB's and both work but I found that especially when riding in the rain much I would need to service the bottom bracket more often, re-lube, re-torque etc. They are easier to remove with ti-prep though.

I guess by the design of the UT crank as long as the cups stay put ok you would be fine since its not much wear on the system to remove and re-install the cranks. With the square taper campy cranks I didn't like having to remove them much as I was concerned about deformation from being installed repeatedly (probably overly concerned).
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Old 12-28-07, 03:17 PM   #16
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No problems here.
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Old 12-28-07, 03:28 PM   #17
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Can buy a 16 oz can w/brush of Loctite (or any other brand) Nickel Anti-Seize for about $18.00. That's the anti-seize formula recommended for titanium and can be used for other anti-seize applications and alloys. That size should last you almost forever and it's a lot cheaper than Ti-Prep.
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Old 12-28-07, 09:27 PM   #18
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To OP, too late now but you did know that BOTH cups loosen by turning toward the front of the bike, right?
I appreicate the advice, but not for an italian bottom bracket.
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Old 12-28-07, 10:07 PM   #19
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Ah - had not thought of that.
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