ryanolf

I am looking for new wheels for my 2005 Novara Randonee. I have done some long distance (loaded) touring, and I plan to do more, so I want sturdy, reliable wheels. The stock wheels have suffered a lot of broken spokes lately. I'm going to have them custom built (any suggestions? I'm in the SF bay area, or I can order online).

My main question is regarding hubs. I don't need fancy hubs, but I want something sturdy and moderately priced, like an XT or XTR, or maybe something more expensive if it's worth it. However, the Randonee has 130mm spacing, and all of the hubs I see suggested for touring wheels are 130mm OLD. The frame is steel, so I understand that there is a chance I could cold set the frame to be a bit wider, and then take it to the shop to get the dropouts re-aligned. However, are there any sturdy (for loaded touring) 130mm hubs out there that would make this unnecessary?

Has anyone out there stretched a 130mm steel frame to 135mm? How risky is this procedure?

Thanks a lot!

well biked

To spread the frame just 5mm, it's usually possible by simply flexing the stays apart by hand. And cold setting, using Sheldon's method, is another possibility, it's not a big deal and in going from 130 to 135 you really shouldn't have to worry about dropout alignment, it's a very, very small change.

One wheelset I'll mention that's available stock with either 130mm or 135mm hubs is the Velocity Dyad wheelset. It's supposed to be a nice touring wheelset with a Shimano-compatible freehub, cartridge bearings, and it's available with different spoke counts. I'm not sure how expensive it is-

https://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=528

well biked

One other thing, if the frame is aluminum, don't attempt to cold set (permanently bend) it. That's for steel only.

Scooper

Phil Wood has touring hubs in both 130 and 135 available for 36, 40, or 48 spokes and set up for either freewheels (threaded) or Shimano cassettes.

They're not cheap.

cs1

10 years ago, I would have said to buy MTB hubs because they were better sealed. Now, almost all decent hubs come with sealed bearings. A set of Ultegra 36 hole hubs laced to some decent rims should work well. Good luck


Tim

Banzai

I'd use 105 hubs at 36 spoke laced to some sturdy rims.

105 hubs are relatively inexpensive and are some of the best you can get.

HillRider

I agree that Shimano's mid-line road hubs (105 or Ultegra) are quite suited as the basis for sturdy wheels if laced to appropriate rims.

As noted, your frame could be easily spread to 135 mm and any of Shimano's MTB hubs would also be a good choice but really have little advantage over the road versions except the wheel could be built with a bit less dish.

If you thing XTR is "moderately priced" than you must be considering some of the really boutique hubs like Chris King, Phil Wood or DT. There is no benefit to them and Shimano hubs are easily serviced at any LBS when they (very rarely) need it.

Metaluna

I'm curious if anyone has a practical feel for how much this affects the strength of the wheel. In theory, less dish yields more balanced spoke tension which should yield a stronger wheel (both radially and laterally), but I couldn't say if we're talking 5% or 50% stronger.

For my money, XT hubs are a pretty darn good value (also LX, though the price difference between LX and XT is much less than XT vs XTR vs boutique). I don't know if XTR really buys you anything in terms of durability. I'm sure they weigh a little less though.

Grand Bois

Cold setting the frame to 135mm is a 10 minute job that anyone can do. Just follow Sheldon Brown's instructions to the letter.

They say that wheels built with 135mm hubs are stronger, but there's really no way to measure that.

I'd go with XT rear and Ultegra front hubs, some sturdy rims like Sun CR-18's and butted spokes. I have a set like that and I love 'em. An XT front hub would have worked just as well, but the Ultegra is prettier and it matches other components on the bike.

If you're looking for a Bay Area wheel builder, I can recommend the Pedaler in El Sobrante. They do nice work, they only charge $30 labor per wheel and they don't overcharge for parts.

BigBlueToe

The Randonee is steel, right? If so, and if it was me, I'd do the Sheldon Brown cold-setting procedure. I did it on an old Schwinn that I built up for my wife as a project, and it was easy. The Schwinn went from the even smaller size (125?) to 135. Spreading and squeezing the frame was no problem. Getting it aligned perfectly (using Sheldon's string method) took a bit of time, but it was also easy. For loaded touring I'd want the least amount of dish possible on my rear wheel. I've had a tour ruined by broken spokes (when I was new and inexperienced) so I guess I'm a little paranoid. I've also had tours where I've ridden for weeks, on gravel and dirt, over big potholes (accidently, of course - you can't always be paying attention, can you?) and NOT broken spokes. A tour with no mechanical issues is a way better tour!

Booger1

I've had Shimano 600 hubs(105 now) for almost 30 years on my bike.I ride it everyday,tour 1-2 times a year.I would say they have well over 150,000 miles on them,still going strong.

I'm getting ready to build some new 700 wheels and I'm going to use either Tiagra or 105 hubs with double wall Sun or Alex rims.They'll last till the day I die.

Michel Gagnon

I had a frame that had a 126-mm 7-speed hub. When that wheel was toast, I decided to replace it with a 135-mm 9-speed hub that I had. I spread the frame to 135 mm. The bike has now much more lateral stability; whereas it behaved like a wet noodle when loaded with 50 kg of groceries, it is now steady enough to allow off-the-saddle climbing.

I can't say how much increased lateral stiffness is due to widening the frame and how much is due to less dish. Both much be contributing factors.

tacomee

Get a steel ruler and measure the rear dropouts--- most newer Randonees have 132 mm dropouts so you can slide a MTB hub in with no problem.

But wheels made with good road hubs (105 or up) aren't and weaker or stronger wheels made with MTB hubs. 5mm just isn't enough to make any difference in real life cycling.

HillRider

Wow!

cyccommute 

Beat me to it. Even if the Radonee is a 130mm spacing, 5mm is 0.19". Hardly worth the effort of cold setting the frame for 135mm hubs.