DIY frame painting
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DIY frame painting
I have a older steel frame I want to repaint. I am currently building it up as a fixed gear. I thought that as a winter project I could repaint it. I was looking for a few tips.
I know i need to sand/ remove all the paint from the frame. Than I was thinking that I could use a coat or two of spray paint primer, and than a coat of two paint and a coat or two of clear coat.
I know I will have to take care around the BB and head set. Is there any thing I am missing??
Thanks for the help
Chris
I know i need to sand/ remove all the paint from the frame. Than I was thinking that I could use a coat or two of spray paint primer, and than a coat of two paint and a coat or two of clear coat.
I know I will have to take care around the BB and head set. Is there any thing I am missing??
Thanks for the help
Chris
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Check the link below to see how the pro's do it.
https://www.campyonly.com/joebell/painting_steps.html
https://www.campyonly.com/joebell/painting_steps.html
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Originally Posted by bigchris603
I know i need to sand/ remove all the paint from the frame. Than I was thinking that I could use a coat or two of spray paint primer, and than a coat of two paint and a coat or two of clear coat.
Oh, and I used masking tape to cover the head tube badge, headset cups, and BB shell. Hope that helps!
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Originally Posted by bigchris603
I know i need to sand/ remove all the paint from the frame. Than I was thinking that I could use a coat or two of spray paint primer, and than a coat of two paint and a coat or two of clear coat.
I'm planning on painting my frame over the winter as well, but I'm going to use auto paint for a vastly more durable finish. Specifically, I'm planning on using PPG Omni AU paints, which is a cheap, two-part auto body urethane (that is, you have to mix the paint with the hardening agent before you spray it). I don't have a spray gun/compressor, so I'm going to use a Preval paint sprayer, which is basically an aerosol paint sprayer that you can put your own paint in. I'm still looking into how dangerous the fumes are and deciding what type of respiration system I'll need - this info should be available on the MSDS or from the paint store. 3M makes a NIOSH-approved carbon-filter respirator for $15 that may be suitable. You may also want to consider this route if you want a tougher finish.
Originally Posted by bigchris603
I know I will have to take care around the BB and head set. Is there any thing I am missing??
Good luck!
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for stuff like this ive found that engine enamels (in a spray can) work great. still sand everything down really good, remember a good paint job 90% prep work and 10% actually painting it. also if this is a winter project watch the temperatures of where you are painting, cold weather isnt the best for painting something. i hope any of this helped
oh yeah, the engine enamel paint you can get at any walmart or any auto store place
oh yeah, the engine enamel paint you can get at any walmart or any auto store place
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Good advice. Also: Is Wal-Mart Good For America?
https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/shows/walmart/
https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/shows/walmart/
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Here is another good link that you should look at https://www.nonlintec.com/carlton/
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I have to paint my bike fork, but the weather here just got pretty cold (in the 20s and 30s Fahrenheit). The primer and paint I'm using suggests having the temperature between 50 and 90 degrees. Is the only downside to painting in the cold that it will take longer to dry? Thanks for any help.
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Good advice. Also: Is Wal-Mart Good For America?
https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/shows/walmart/
https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/shows/walmart/
I must have missed something. Who said anything about wally world? Who cares anything about Wally World?
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there is a lot of info here also https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/301459-frame-painters.html
C&V, sticky
C&V, sticky
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No, the downside is that it WON'T dry!
At 20-30 degrees, it'll just become mush...and stay that way. At least until the ambient temp is above 60or so. And then you will have closed the paint and that means scuffing or sanding before continueing.
And catalysed paints that stay mushy for too long tend to lose their adhesiveness once dry.
Too many things can go wrong when it's colder than 55 degrees. Not worth the risk IMHO.
An auto body shop can spray in winter, because they use heated booths that can warm the substrate and then dry it after spraying. They often use dryers for the air that goes to the spray gun as well.
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