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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 01-13-08, 06:26 AM   #1
sumguy
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pedal rant

I'm a terrible mechanic. I lose stuff, break stuff, or injure myself all the time. I watched the videos and read the pedal chapter (thats how bad I am) and was warned it might be tough. The left pedal wasn't too bad. The right pedal was sprayed with WD40 and heated to no avail. I put my weight into it while the left crank was blocked from moving by the kickstand and my other foot. It finally broke free after multiple slips and bangs. I noticed the top 2-3 threads have blue stuff on them. Do bikes come preassembled or do bike shops put them together?? I can assume the bike shop used LocTite?? Anyway, will clean the crank threads, grease the new spindles and reassemble.
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Old 01-13-08, 08:32 AM   #2
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Has anyone else (non-LBS) worked on this bike since new? Loctite is not needed on pedals, and I don't know why a shop would have done this unless there is an issue with the threads on that crankarm.
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Old 01-13-08, 08:44 AM   #3
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Even if it was blue loctite on the first couple threads, doesn't make it really hard to get off with good leverage and a pedal wrench.

Blue is meant to be removeable and from what it sounds like, wasn't being overdone on the threads either. That being said, I don't think any bike shop would loctite pedals - not needed as #2 said.
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Old 01-13-08, 08:47 AM   #4
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What kind of pedal wrench are you using? It is all about the size of the lever on the tough ones.
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Old 01-13-08, 11:40 AM   #5
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I put my weight into it while the left crank was blocked from moving by the kickstand and my other foot.
Leverage is key. If I can't get a pedal off with one or two tries while still on the bike, I remove the crank and chainring so I can brace it on the bench or floor for leverage.
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Old 01-13-08, 12:15 PM   #6
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Leverage is key. If I can't get a pedal off with one or two tries while still on the bike, I remove the crank and chainring so I can brace it on the bench or floor for leverage.
If the non-stuck pedal is already removed from the crankarm, the park klingon tool or a pipe over it will yield much more leverage then you can bracing it against the floor or a bench.

Long breaker bars on each side will pretty much guarantee the pedals off.
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Old 01-13-08, 01:58 PM   #7
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Has anyone else (non-LBS) worked on this bike since new? Loctite is not needed on pedals, and I don't know why a shop would have done this unless there is an issue with the threads on that crankarm.
the bike was supposed to be new at the LBS and the only other maintenance was me changing the tires. the left pedal had blue on the top 3 threads, the right pedal had it on maybe 3/4 of the threads - didn't realize it until I cleaned it better. The new pedals installed ok, so the threads weren't messed up.

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What kind of pedal wrench are you using? It is all about the size of the lever on the tough ones.
the pedal wrench is the Park model PW-5 and was surprisingly $13 at closest LBS. normally they have good bike prices and outrageous accessory prices. If they didn't have anything on hand, I was going to get the kit Harbor Freight has on clearance.

I was already planning to take it to a buddies house and decided to give it one more try.
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Old 01-13-08, 02:23 PM   #8
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When you install the pedals, use grease on the threads. And the pedals need not be put on gorilla tight. Snug it down, then maybe 1/4 turn more. The threads are in the "self tightening" direction when pedalled.
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Old 01-13-08, 03:55 PM   #9
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When you install the pedals, use grease on the threads. And the pedals need not be put on gorilla tight.
Absolutely right and I never understand why so many shops put them on with what appears to be an impact wrench or a 3' cheater bar. Pedals need to be on snug but that's plenty. They will not come off by themselves.
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Old 01-13-08, 06:04 PM   #10
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You are turning it the right way, correct? Both loosen toward the rear of the bike.
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Old 01-13-08, 07:20 PM   #11
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If the non-stuck pedal is already removed from the crankarm, the park klingon tool or a pipe over it will yield much more leverage then you can bracing it against the floor or a bench.

Long breaker bars on each side will pretty much guarantee the pedals off.
That'll work too. I have Time pedals and sometimes you need one hand to keep the Allen key in place and the other to push down with.
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Old 01-14-08, 10:59 AM   #12
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You are turning it the right way, correct? Both loosen toward the rear of the bike.
got them loose and cleaned. lubricated and installed new clipless/platform pedals without problem. even triple checked left pedal in left crank arm, right in right. not happy, will try clipless again in better weather. didn't unclip at a stop and did a slow mo fall into the street, plus right foot hurt so may need to experiment with cleat adjustment
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Old 01-14-08, 01:22 PM   #13
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got them loose and cleaned. lubricated and installed new clipless/platform pedals without problem. even triple checked left pedal in left crank arm, right in right. not happy, will try clipless again in better weather. didn't unclip at a stop and did a slow mo fall into the street, plus right foot hurt so may need to experiment with cleat adjustment
Welcome to the club! I think I had three before I grew a clipless brain
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Old 01-14-08, 01:40 PM   #14
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Just be careful using to much leverage.You may damage the bottom bracket.
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