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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 01-14-08, 11:12 PM   #1
wroomwroomoops
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Threadless fork STUCK!

I wanted to remove the fork and headset from this frame in order to store or sell them. Anyway...

I removed the headset cap. I removed the stem. And... nothing. The fork remained in place. I see that there is the plastic ring keeping the fork tube in the top headset cup/race, and the fork would not move no matter what I did. I tried to tap the top of the fork, but that didn't help. I would like to avoid anything destructive. Any ideas?
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Old 01-15-08, 01:57 AM   #2
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When I went to replace the fork on my MTB, the same thing happened (or didn't happen, that is). It looked like the plastic ring was wedged too tight between the steerer and headset. Tried tapping it with a rubber mallet, nothing. I too was afraid of damaging something. But then I got over my worry, lifted the front end, placed a piece of wood over the steerer tube and gave it a big whack with a hammer and it came out easily. This would usually be bad advice, but in this case, just hit it a little harder. Edit: If you clamp a stem near the top of the steerer before hitting it (obviously remove spacers and make sure there's at least an inch or so between the headset and stem), it will keep the fork from falling all the way out and possibly hitting the ground when it gets loose.
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Old 01-15-08, 02:26 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by JiveTurkey View Post
When I went to replace the fork on my MTB, the same thing happened (or didn't happen, that is). It looked like the plastic ring was wedged too tight between the steerer and headset. Tried tapping it with a rubber mallet, nothing. I too was afraid of damaging something. But then I got over my worry, lifted the front end, placed a piece of wood over the steerer tube and gave it a big whack with a hammer and it came out easily. This would usually be bad advice, but in this case, just hit it a little harder. Edit: If you clamp a stem near the top of the steerer before hitting it (obviously remove spacers and make sure there's at least an inch or so between the headset and stem), it will keep the fork from falling all the way out and possibly hitting the ground when it gets loose.
I used a bit of penetrative oil and let it go where the sun don't shine, if you know what I mean, and then I did the big whack-over-wood thingie, and it worked! HA! I am filled with an incredible feeling of satisfaction.

Thanks!
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Old 01-15-08, 02:30 AM   #4
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Same feeling I got, right after surprise and relief that I didn't break something.
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Old 01-15-08, 05:18 AM   #5
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I used a bit of penetrative oil and let it go where the sun don't shine, if you know what I mean, and then I did the big whack-over-wood thingie, and it worked! HA! I am filled with an incredible feeling of satisfaction.

Thanks!
You are teh auzomnez!
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Old 01-15-08, 07:48 AM   #6
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I've seen some fork drop right out after loosening the clamp bolts on the stem, and then other seem to be a little tight like yours. Myself, I would rather see it a little tight than a little loose. Some of the wedge spacers pop out with little effort. I try and give them a little waterproof grease like Phils during my assembly process.

I have a plastic mallet that I use for wacking the head tube. Usually doesn't take too much of a hit. Just make SURE you have your other hand ready to catch the fork when it drops!
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Old 01-15-08, 11:52 AM   #7
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I once had one that refused to budge with the amount of hammer force that I was willing to use. I emptied a 16 gram CO2 cartridge onto the steerer tube and immediately knocked it loose with a only tiny tap from my plastic headed mallet.
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Old 01-15-08, 06:04 PM   #8
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I love it! Thermodynamics.
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