Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,819
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Powdercoating-What exactly should be masked?

    Sorry, I've given up searching here and other forums. Powdercoat/powder coat has been a frequent topic, but not what needs to be masked. I've gleaned a few items, but maybe comprehensive list would be better for reference. I'm going to have an old steel frame repainted (single color) and am in the process of stripping of the old paint now.

    Background: 80's US made Raleigh, lugged steel road frame, forged drop outs, and threaded stem. Will convert it to a fixed gear.

    ----

    Head tube and bottom bracket: Protect just the threading and/or the facing? Or is it better to re-tap and re-face? (I doubt this last part, but I don't know)

    Seat tube: I've read that it's got to be masked or good luck getting your seat post in, but what about the little slit by the clamping part?

    Small braze-ons and mounting brackets for water bottle, fender, rack, and front wheel lock: I have no idea, but I do have a tap for these.

    Break bosses: Not applicable in my case, but maybe some one down the road might want to know.

    Fork tube thread: I guess it has to be masked cause there was no paint on that part to start with.

    Shifter bosses on down tube: I've get two square projections that the shifters connected to. I plan to use it as a fixie, but should that be masked to give me options later on?

    ----

    Whether I'll do the masking or the powdercoaters will, I don't know yet. But in either case, I want to make sure what needs to get masked gets masked. Any other thoughts will be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    5,434
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I don't think you need to mask anything if you have all the threads chased, BB and headtube faced and seat tube reamed, which is what you should do after any re-paint. The powdercoater is not going to paint the threads, although there will be some overspray, which will easily get cleaned up with the frame prep after powdercoating.

    Also suggest bead blasting to avoid rust.
    Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace

    1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
    1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
    1988 Ducati 750 F1

  3. #3
    Senior Member tradtimbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Monterey, California
    My Bikes
    1982 Fuji Team, 1979 Raleigh Team Record, 1984 Raleigh Team USA, Japanese Raleigh Super Course, 2000 LeMond Buenos Aires, 90's Schwinn High Plains, 1978? Austro Daimler Inter 10
    Posts
    547
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by San Rensho View Post
    I don't think you need to mask anything if you have all the threads chased, BB and headtube faced and seat tube reamed, which is what you should do after any re-paint. The powdercoater is not going to paint the threads, although there will be some overspray, which will easily get cleaned up with the frame prep after powdercoating.
    its also a good idea to grind the powdercoating off your clamping surfaces on the dropouts. front and rear. for a fixed gear, especially the rear because you want those track nuts to bear down on steel not powdercoat. both sides, and on the inside surface where the axle sits. On the front, both sides and the inner surface so your fork stays true. powdercoating will "round-off" at sharp edges, so if there is a build up in the drops, your axles won't sit correct.

    Also suggest bead blasting to avoid rust.[/QUOTE]
    +1
    Can anyone give me a ride from Monterey to Big Bear on Wednesday or Thursday?

    The Sustainable Cyclist

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,819
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for the replies. I just wanted to make sure what needs to get done, gets done before. It goes in Monday and I should get it back in about a week. I opted for the bead blasting, seems to be universally recommended.

    Apart from using Frame Saver, I didn't think much about the post painting work.

  5. #5
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,295
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Powdercoating is not easy to remove. If the person doing the coating sprays anything into threads, faces or dropouts, you will have one hell of a difficult time removing it.

    Make sure they know what to plug/mask before it gets powdercoated.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  6. #6
    tinker madman451's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA
    My Bikes
    Schwinn World, MOAB, Varsity; Trek 820, Miyata Five-Twelve rebuild
    Posts
    64
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    !!! Mask the whole steerer tube and crown race/where the crown race sits.
    I did not and the tool to re-face where tht crown race fits would not fit around the steerer tube (powder coats are thicker than paint - about 0.1mm or so) and I was forced to remove the powder coat by grinding with a dremel tool in order to press the crown race back on.
    Reduce. Reuse. Recycle. In that order.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    68
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Powdercoating is not easy to remove. If the person doing the coating sprays anything into threads, faces or dropouts, you will have one hell of a difficult time removing it.
    wrong.

  8. #8
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,295
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by nickj6 View Post
    wrong.
    Yes, you are.

    Any other insightful comments?
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    52
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    re:

    I powder coat frames for friends and such....

    You need to purchase some special tape used for masking powder coating. It is typically greenish in color. It is heat resistant and will withstand the temp. of the bake oven. All other tapes will melt in the oven.

    Mask all braze-on's. Mask the inner 3/4" inch of the head tube openings and seat post. Buy the needed screws and insert them into any exposed threads that you need. Any exposed threaded opening will be coated with powder and the only way they will be usable again is to have them tapped.

    A typical powder coating will vary from 1.5-3 mil's. Be sure to mask the race on the fork. Mask off the opening to the BB. I have an extra set of cups that I screw into the BB to cover them because it is difficult to mask that area.

    I also insert an extra rear derailer bolt to protect those threads. Make sure that when you put the bolt in the rear derailer thread only run it in until the end of the bolt is flush with the other side. If you have some exposed threads poking out they will get coated with powder and be a bear to unscrew.

    I also run a bolt through the seat clamp bolts to make sure no powder gets into those threads.

    If you have any questions let me know.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    68
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Yes, you are.

    Any other insightful comments?
    (mod edited) You don't know very much, do you?

    I just had a frame powdercoated and I needed to remove some powdercoat on the dropouts which came off very easily using a file. You could use razor and sandpaper just as easy, but if you really want to make it simple you can use a special kind of paint stripper from a hardware store. I forgot the exact name of it.


  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,819
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Wardrive View Post
    I also insert an extra rear derailer bolt to protect those threads. Make sure that when you put the bolt in the rear derailer thread only run it in until the end of the bolt is flush with the other side. If you have some exposed threads poking out they will get coated with powder and be a bear to unscrew.
    Ahhh, being a pack rat just paid off. I've saved practically every salvageable part from old bikes that I worked on, cleaned, sorted and stored in zip lock bags. So if I partially screw a bolt in every hole after the bead blasting, I've got most of it covered. I even saved old BB cups who's races were trashed. They all have a use now. Far out. This was just the kind of information I was looking for. Thanks.

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    52
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    re

    Cool,

    Concerning the BB cups; After you screw them into the housing remember to also mask off the center opening of the cups, you do not want the powder to get inside. I also will thread the cups into the housing maybe 3-4 threads then use the PC tape and cover the remaining exposed threads on the cups so that I can use them over again on the next powder coating job.

    This is the type of tape you need to acquire:


    ebay search for "Heat tape Powder Coating" will give what you need.

    In a reply someone mentioned a solvent that will "cut" powder coating, it is called "MEK" and yes, it will soften up the powder coat, but beware, the stuff is pretty strong and you really don't want to mess with it.

    Important: I am sure the shop you are using will know this..but ask just the same...make sure they are NOT using an "epoxy" powder. You want them to use a "hybrid mix or "polyester" powder. The Epoxy variety will break down under the suns UV rays and chalk over with time. The Hybrid and Polyester variety will not. Some shops will just shoot whatever powder they have in the color you want regardless of variety so be sure to ask.

    Powder is awesome, you will love it.

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Knoxville TN
    My Bikes
    Surley Crosscheck, 1988 Rockhopper Commuter
    Posts
    137
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I assume the BB cups need to be the metal variety, since the plastic might melt?
    Eric
    2001 631 CrossCheck
    1988 Rockhopper

  14. #14
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,295
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by nickj6 View Post
    You don't know very much, do you?
    Yeah, you don't.

    Good thing I don't need to do much, you proved how much you know about powdercoating in exactly 2 posts in this thread for all to see.

    How about powdercoating your bb threads? Seat tube? Headtube? Downtube braze-ons? Bottle cage braze ons? Are you going to remove the powder out of that as well?

    You are doing the community a great disservice with your ignorance.

    Quote Originally Posted by nickj6 View Post
    Are you ********?
    Also for future refrence, name calling is against the forum guidelines. Guess I was hoping for too much for someone that spends all their time in the BMX forum.
    Last edited by operator; 01-19-08 at 07:20 PM.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  15. #15
    Senior Member jaxgtr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    My Bikes
    Cannondale Synapse , Cannondale SuperSix, Trek CrossRip
    Posts
    3,979
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Try to keep it civil folks.
    Brian | 2015 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 3 | 2014 Trek CrossRip Comp | 2013 Cannondale SuperSix (for sale)
    Quote Originally Posted by AEO View Post
    you should learn to embrace change, and mock it's failings every step of the way.

  16. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    68
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Yeah, you don't.

    Good thing I don't need to do much, you proved how much you know about powdercoating in exactly 2 posts in this thread for all to see.

    How about powdercoating your bb threads? Seat tube? Headtube? Downtube braze-ons? Bottle cage braze ons? Are you going to remove the powder out of that as well?

    You are doing the community a great disservice with your ignorance.
    How about no? It doesn't have any BB threads, and no water bottle cage, it's a BMX bike...

    Also everything fit just fine without me needing to remove any powdercoat. Like I said the only powdercoat i removed was on the dropouts, that needed to be slighty filed down because I milled the 14mm axles down to 3/8 and they weren't fitting all the way in.



    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Also for future refrence, name calling is against the forum guidelines. Guess I was hoping for too much for someone that spends all their time in the BMX forum.
    Cry me a river.

    BTW you are still wrong, powdercoat is easy to remove.

  17. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    52
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yes, no platic anywhere, it will melt like a mother.

    I recently powdercoated some Shimano cranks for guy. He left some old pedals in the cranks to protect the threads....well the pedals were some older plastic variety, very hard and durable looking so I figured they would hold up...wrong.

    They were in the over for 18 mim. at 400 degrees....melted them completely off, nothing remaining but the metal bearings and stem.

    Live and learn....

  18. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,819
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Wardrive View Post
    Yes, no platic anywhere, it will melt like a mother.
    Yeah, the powder coat guy on the phone stress that there should be no plastic or rubber. He asked twice about rubber, so me thinks he just had a recent incident on his mind.

    Next time I'm going to have them sand blast the paint off. It's take all day today and I'm still not done. I knew the threading of the braze ons would be tough, but I didn't plan on the decals and then there is like a wax on the chain stays that repels the paint remover.

  19. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    52
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    re

    Sandblasting is the way to go. IT is cheap, usually around 25.00 to have the bike stripped clean and ready to paint.

    some have stressed that you need to use "media" but in general the sandblast is fine. It may leave the surface of the tube just a bit more rough but the powder lays down very nicely over it.

  20. #20
    Tom (ex)Builder twahl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Manassas, VA
    My Bikes
    Specialized Allez
    Posts
    2,814
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by nickj6 View Post
    BTW you are still wrong, powdercoat is easy to remove.
    Your powder coating dude sucks.
    Tom

    "It hurts so good..."

  21. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    68
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by twahl View Post
    Your powder coating dude sucks.
    why? because I didn't tell him to mask certain things off?

  22. #22
    Senior Member lighthorse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    My Bikes
    LeMond Buenos Aires, Trek 7500, Scattante CFR, Burley Hudson
    Posts
    498
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    unkchunk,
    I have had one frame powdercoated. In the end it was worth it. But....

    The powdercoater also did the bead blasting to clean/prepare the frame and I assumed that he would mask it properly as he said he had done a lot of bike frames. He was also recommended by a LBS.
    I was not present for any of the process.

    The bottom bracket was impossible for me to deal with since the overspray had covered the threads. I had to take it to a LBS to have the threads chased. Then all was okay.

    Head tubes and seat tubes came through okay without masking.

    Several other instances of overspray were such that I could fix them fine.

    This is just my one experience.
    Suntree, Fl.
    Burley Hudson (n+3)
    Scattante CFR (n+2)
    LeMond Buenos Aries (steel)(n+1)
    Trek 7500 (n)

    crazyguyonabike.com/lighthorse

  23. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,819
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Just to update. I finally got the frame back on Friday. Framesaver'ed it when I got home. Spent some of the weekend putting the bike together. Still have a little more to do and to get a brake cable for the front. But this is basically how she will look. I'm happy with it. Thanks for all your help.

    Edit: Oh, and Wardrive's spare BB cups idea to protect the threads worked very well. Also used spare bolts to protect all the smaller braze-on threads. Almost too easy.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by unkchunk; 02-19-08 at 12:08 AM.

  24. #24
    Si Senior dbg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Naperville, Illinois
    My Bikes
    Too Numerous (not)
    Posts
    2,429
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by unkchunk View Post
    Ahhh, being a pack rat just paid off. I've saved practically every salvageable part from old bikes that I worked on, cleaned, sorted and stored in zip lock bags. So if I partially screw a bolt in every hole after the bead blasting, I've got most of it covered. I even saved old BB cups who's races were trashed. They all have a use now. Far out. This was just the kind of information I was looking for. Thanks.
    +1

    I did the same. Worked great. The items you've used to cover areas might get "sealed in" by the powdercoat. Don't just yank them off. Cut/score around the edges where you want the covering to make a clean break. Otherwise you risk some amount of over-flaking that might look bad. I also ended up filing off the rear drops. The original fit was tight and the powdercoat made the axles no longer fit. I like the recommendation to grind off the clamping areas outside the drops also.
    David Green, Naperville, IL USA "The older I get, the better I used to be" --Lee Trevino

  25. #25
    Si Senior dbg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Naperville, Illinois
    My Bikes
    Too Numerous (not)
    Posts
    2,429
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    And I WOULD cover any brake posts and downtube shifter bosses. Otherwise you'll have to file them clean later.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •