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  1. #1
    Mr. Cellophane RainmanP's Avatar
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    Replacing BB - Skill level?

    Is replacing a cartridge BB someone with intermediate skills and the right tools should be able to do? I have disassembled, cleaned and repacked the bearings on an older 105 square axle bb with loose bearings, so I know the process. But I have read warnings about home mechanics not being able to get the fixed cup tight enough so let the shop do it. I do have the appropriate remover for the Shimano splined bb, as well as crank puller, etc., but this will be the first time I try to use it. Any hints/warnings?
    Thanks,
    Raymond
    If it ain't broke, mess with it anyway!

  2. #2
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    The anti-sieze stuff they put around the threads can make seating a bit stiff. In fact, it almost feels like you are cross-threaded. Be absolutely cetain that you aren't, first!
    If your tool has a square receptacle for a ratchet drive, then use a torque wrench, and set it to the value listed in the documentation provided.
    Also, be certain that the cranks are in straight before tightening that bolt. I've heard a lot of complaints about people bashing their splines up.
    You will need an adapter to use an older style crank puller, too. These are cheap and are available at most bike shops.
    Je vais à vélo, donc je suis!

  3. #3
    Mr. Cellophane RainmanP's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info, D*Alex.
    Regards,
    Raymond
    If it ain't broke, mess with it anyway!

  4. #4
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    As Alex D said, you should have no problem. What you will not be able to do, is to dissassemble the bottom brackett itself. However, that's the idea with a cartrigde type bb, you just replace it! Gone are the days of dissassembling a bb, cleaning out the guts and repacking with some BullShot lube.

    At least we can repack our hub bearings. Wait, those have gone to sealed bearings as well.

    Wait a minute, what's left? Headset, yeah the headset you can still repack. Darn that's gone to sealed as well.

    What are they doing to us? Gone are the days of grease all the way up to you elbows. Now it's just remove replace and ride. Good for some, Bad for the tinkerers.
    L8R G8R
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    "Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger

  5. #5
    put me back on my bike stewartp's Avatar
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    When using the crank puller, always make sure you have screwed it in fully before applying the reverse torque to pull the crank off the square shaft.

    This is because the alloy used on the crank is relatively soft (probably to help with lightness) compared to the threads on the puller. I once screed the tool in finger tight, and proceeded to pull the threads right out of the crank. One new chainset required.

    Also, if its not letting go with the pull, try some light taps with a wooden mallet.

    The new sealed BB sould have indications on it as to which iside is left and which side is right.

    With the right tools (which you have) and be in no rush, its not a tricky job.

    I second Alex's note that the white threadlock stuff they put on the bearing makes it tight to go in, but thats only on the final threads. The starting threads should be clear so it should screw in easy. Take your time here and be absolutely certain your not cross threaded. If you knacker the threads on the BB well, you can get another one, but if you knacker the threads in the frame . . .

    Stew
    The older I get the better I used to be.

  6. #6
    Senior Member pat5319's Avatar
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    Yo, Rainman, Are you workin on the Bianchi? Remember the idiosyncracies of the Italian threaded BB!
    (I'm sure you'll do fine, it sounds like you've been a bright guy so far)
    Ride Avanti?
    Pat
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  7. #7
    Mr. Cellophane RainmanP's Avatar
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    Pat,
    Luckily the Bianchi has a good old loose bearing bb so I can probably keep it going for quite a while with regular maintenance. It will probably go to the shop when it needs a new one so THEY can figure out the threads and all.

    No this is for the commuter battle wagon that used to be a Giant Cypress. The 105 bb has close to 3000 miles which sounds like it is getting about to its life expectancy. I'd just as soon go ahead and replace it before it starts giving me trouble.

    Thanks for all the suggestions.
    Regards,
    Raymond
    If it ain't broke, mess with it anyway!

  8. #8
    feros ferio John E's Avatar
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    The Bianchi uses 36mm diameter BB bearing cups, with RH threading on both sides. I strongly advocate putting LocTite on the drive side, to prevent self-disassembly on the road. (Been there, done that with French and Italian bikes.)

    In contrast, the Giant uses 35mm=1.375" BB bearing cups, with self-tightening LH threading on the drive side. LocTite is superfluous and definitely not recommended in this case. English- and Swiss-threaded BBs do not self-disassemble on the road.

  9. #9
    RAGBRAI. Need I say more? Steele-Bike's Avatar
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    Originally posted by stewartp
    When using the crank puller, always make sure you have screwed it in fully before applying the reverse torque to pull the crank off the square shaft.

    This is because the alloy used on the crank is relatively soft (probably to help with lightness) compared to the threads on the puller. I once screed the tool in finger tight, and proceeded to pull the threads right out of the crank. One new chainset required.

    I did the exact same thing last year. I was in a hurry and didn't take the time to make sure it was screwed in tight enough. Lesson learned.

    I have replaced my BB cartridge several other times without incident. As easy as 1-2-snap...

  10. #10
    Senior Member pat5319's Avatar
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    Raymond,
    If it were mine I'd ride it until it started making noize or feeling rough, normally these things give up gradually and you can probably get many more miles out of it.
    Ride More
    Pat
    Pat5319


  11. #11
    Mr. Cellophane RainmanP's Avatar
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    Sounds good, Pat. Thanks.
    If it ain't broke, mess with it anyway!

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