Repair peeling decal
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Repair peeling decal
The edge of one of the decals on my new chromoly frame is peeling:
It's not so big an issue that I want to send it back, but I would like to try to fix it, if possible.
I've spent the past few days reading several of the threads regarding decal repair/removal, but still have a few questions that I'm hoping someone can help out with:
1. How can I safely reattach it?
I greatly appreciate any and all suggestions.
It's not so big an issue that I want to send it back, but I would like to try to fix it, if possible.
I've spent the past few days reading several of the threads regarding decal repair/removal, but still have a few questions that I'm hoping someone can help out with:
1. How can I safely reattach it?
I tried heating it up with a hair-dryer, but it seems that there is no adhesive left (most likely due to my picking at it). Are there any paint-safe adhesives that I can use? Someone mentioned superglue, but I'm not sure that they were being serious.
2. Can a clear-coated decal peel like this?In truth, I'd like to remove the decal, but it looks like there is a ridge of clear-coat where the decal edge used to be. I thought that clear-coated decals would not peel. Could this be a clear-coat miss, or is it more likely that the decal was applied on top of the clear while it was still wet?
3. What can I use to sand/polish the clear-coat ridge without damaging any exposed paint?I may go ahead and remove the decal (or test on another, less conspicuous one). Some people mention polishing compounds; others say sandpaper. However, I'm worried about the paint, especially since this is a steel frame. Would 2000-grit sandpaper be ok, or maybe 3000-grit?
I would consider having the decals removed/frame re-cleared professionally, but finding a place to have it done would be a bit difficult, given that I live in Japan; it also makes many of the name-brand products mentioned in the forums nearly impossible to find.I greatly appreciate any and all suggestions.
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that ridge MIGHT be the glue remaining on the surface, see if you can scrape some clear off of JUST THE DECAL, somewhere farther back on the surface of the decal, if not,.........
IF the decals were clearcoated over, AND it's now peeling, send it back, the paintjob was defective.
there is probably NO clearcoat UNDER the decal, so removing it will leave a patch of the bike with no clearcoat on it, AND the ridge between the two layers,....impossible to repair unless you re-clear at least that tube, more than likely the entire frame.
if you want to keep it, you'll need to re-glue the decal, and then have the clearcoat re-shot or have the decals removed and the frame re-clearcoated, but more than likely you will see a "ghost image" on the frame where the decals used to be after the clear was shot, unless the painter re-shoots the basecoat as well, but thats a complete re-paint.
have the painter do this so he can choose a cement/glue compatable with his clearcoat (I would use the clearcoat AS the glue, and then top it with more clearcoat, so no adverse reaction issues that way)
if you are not framiliar with sanding and polishing, ESPECIALLY A ROUND TUBE, do not attempt this on your own, it's EXTREMELY easy to ruin the paintjob with either the sanding or the rotary buffer, so again let the painter do this.
for painters try MOTORCYCLE PAINTERS (I KNOW japan has some crazy custom painted bikes and cars!) as bicycle painters that JUST paint bicycles are rare, but you should be able to find many motorcycle painters, hopefully near, or reasonably near you.
check at custom motorcycle and car shops, or a local bicycle shop to find a painter nearby.
see? you need to send it back if you can.
IF the decals were clearcoated over, AND it's now peeling, send it back, the paintjob was defective.
there is probably NO clearcoat UNDER the decal, so removing it will leave a patch of the bike with no clearcoat on it, AND the ridge between the two layers,....impossible to repair unless you re-clear at least that tube, more than likely the entire frame.
if you want to keep it, you'll need to re-glue the decal, and then have the clearcoat re-shot or have the decals removed and the frame re-clearcoated, but more than likely you will see a "ghost image" on the frame where the decals used to be after the clear was shot, unless the painter re-shoots the basecoat as well, but thats a complete re-paint.
have the painter do this so he can choose a cement/glue compatable with his clearcoat (I would use the clearcoat AS the glue, and then top it with more clearcoat, so no adverse reaction issues that way)
if you are not framiliar with sanding and polishing, ESPECIALLY A ROUND TUBE, do not attempt this on your own, it's EXTREMELY easy to ruin the paintjob with either the sanding or the rotary buffer, so again let the painter do this.
for painters try MOTORCYCLE PAINTERS (I KNOW japan has some crazy custom painted bikes and cars!) as bicycle painters that JUST paint bicycles are rare, but you should be able to find many motorcycle painters, hopefully near, or reasonably near you.
check at custom motorcycle and car shops, or a local bicycle shop to find a painter nearby.
see? you need to send it back if you can.
Last edited by reckon; 02-05-08 at 03:50 AM.
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To reattach, I have used a glue stick - the stuff kids use at school. Make sure it's a disappearing (as it dries) type.
Where that didn't work, I have used superglue.
I did have one Deda tubing foil sticker that wouldn't adhere with either of the above
Where that didn't work, I have used superglue.
I did have one Deda tubing foil sticker that wouldn't adhere with either of the above
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Thanks for the responses.
Unfortunately sending it back isn't really an option... I don't want to wait another month for a new frame.
After examining the other decals, it appears that they were applied on top of the clear (while wet), as the edges can easily be lifted.
I decided to try removing one that I particularly disliked. I heated it up and slowly removed it, but unfortunately it left behind a milky appearance (except for in one small section). I hoped it might have been adhesive, but after removing the stickiness the milkiness still remains, so I can only assume the underlying paint/clear has been damaged.
Live and learn. I'll probably leave it alone for now, or black tape it.
Thanks for the suggestion about talking with motorcycle painters - I hadn't thought about it, but I know of a few cycle dealers in town that I might try if I ever decide to have it fixed.
Unfortunately sending it back isn't really an option... I don't want to wait another month for a new frame.
After examining the other decals, it appears that they were applied on top of the clear (while wet), as the edges can easily be lifted.
I decided to try removing one that I particularly disliked. I heated it up and slowly removed it, but unfortunately it left behind a milky appearance (except for in one small section). I hoped it might have been adhesive, but after removing the stickiness the milkiness still remains, so I can only assume the underlying paint/clear has been damaged.
Live and learn. I'll probably leave it alone for now, or black tape it.
Thanks for the suggestion about talking with motorcycle painters - I hadn't thought about it, but I know of a few cycle dealers in town that I might try if I ever decide to have it fixed.
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Here's a picture of the 'milkiness':
It's only noticeable in direct light.
As I said before, since it's smooth and not sticky I assume that it's damage, though I really have no experience with this. I also don't know if the area is clear or paint, and if it is paint, if it is acrylic, enamel, etc. (metallic paint is usually enamel?). Thus I'm not sure what kind of cleaner would be safe to use (citrus, acetone, wd-40, polishing cream, etc.)
As for getting a replacement decal, I would have to say I'd rather be stuck with the milkiness; I'm not a fan of bright red on metallic green.
It's only noticeable in direct light.
As I said before, since it's smooth and not sticky I assume that it's damage, though I really have no experience with this. I also don't know if the area is clear or paint, and if it is paint, if it is acrylic, enamel, etc. (metallic paint is usually enamel?). Thus I'm not sure what kind of cleaner would be safe to use (citrus, acetone, wd-40, polishing cream, etc.)
As for getting a replacement decal, I would have to say I'd rather be stuck with the milkiness; I'm not a fan of bright red on metallic green.