Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Rans Rockst (Retro rocket) Rans Enduro Sport (Retro racket) Catrike 559, Merin Bear Valley (beater bike).
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Check out your old fork carefully.
Some forks have a little flat area that makes it easy to get a punch or screwdriver under the crown race. Once you get it started, even a tiny bit, you can fit an old screwdriver under it and gradually work it up the steerer tube. If your fork doesn't have such a flat place, you can still sharpen an old screwdriver and gradually work your way around the space between the crown race and the fork.
Aside from removing the crown race, no "magic" tools are required. If your headset has been working smoothly there is no need to replace it.
Oh - all those guys who say to measure the steerer tube twice before cutting - they're all WRONG! Measure at least 3 times. Dry fit everything together, think it through, make sure the handlebar height is where you want it, then walk away and have a cup of coffee or something. Think it through again when you come back. The only bike mechanics who won't admit to having cut a steerer too short are liars.
Carbon steerer or metal? If it's carbon, look around to find an appropriate hack saw blade. I have one that, insted of teeth, has some kind of grit on it. I also wrap the steerer with masking tape and cut through that to prevent any tear out. If you don't have a saw guide, buy a screw type hose clamp from Auto Zone and use that to make sure that your cut is nice and square. Use a half round file to deburr the cut end.