Wheel builders, question for ya!
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,848
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Wheel builders, question for ya!
Hi...
I build my own set of wheels time to time, I think i do a vgood job but there is a lot of stuff that i really dont know so here we go with my question.
I trying to repair a rear wheel (change all the old spokes), the brand of the hub and the rim doesnt matter , well I'm using same size spokes in both sides of the wheel and looks like it will work fine, but as makes sense the drive side will get more tension than the non drive side, there is a way to even the tension in both sides w/o having to buy shorter spokes??? Washers in the spokes heads maybe? In 10 speeds wheels the dishing it is too much to use spokes of the same size?
Thanks in advance.
UM
I build my own set of wheels time to time, I think i do a vgood job but there is a lot of stuff that i really dont know so here we go with my question.
I trying to repair a rear wheel (change all the old spokes), the brand of the hub and the rim doesnt matter , well I'm using same size spokes in both sides of the wheel and looks like it will work fine, but as makes sense the drive side will get more tension than the non drive side, there is a way to even the tension in both sides w/o having to buy shorter spokes??? Washers in the spokes heads maybe? In 10 speeds wheels the dishing it is too much to use spokes of the same size?
Thanks in advance.
UM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 622
Bikes: 2006 LeMond Croix de Fer, 2005 Kona Dew Deluxe
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In many cases you can make the same length spokes work on both sides of a rear wheel, but the drive side tension will certainly be higher. That's expected.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
I think that it depends.
If your cassette has 7 or fewer cogs, when you calculate the spoke lengths, the drive side spokes will generally work out to be 1mm shorter than the non-drive side. My rule of thimb is that spokes 1mm long or shorter will work. In that case 1 size works.
If your cassette has 8 or more cogs, the wheel generally has to be dished more and the recommended drive and non-drive spoke lengths usually vary by 2mm. If that's the case, I'd go for two different sizes.
Building a wheel is a fair amount of work and a main reason for doing it is the personal satisfaction of doing it yourself and achieving the best result you can. It's kind of stupid to jepardize that by cheaping out on buying spokes.
If your cassette has 7 or fewer cogs, when you calculate the spoke lengths, the drive side spokes will generally work out to be 1mm shorter than the non-drive side. My rule of thimb is that spokes 1mm long or shorter will work. In that case 1 size works.
If your cassette has 8 or more cogs, the wheel generally has to be dished more and the recommended drive and non-drive spoke lengths usually vary by 2mm. If that's the case, I'd go for two different sizes.
Building a wheel is a fair amount of work and a main reason for doing it is the personal satisfaction of doing it yourself and achieving the best result you can. It's kind of stupid to jepardize that by cheaping out on buying spokes.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Typically for 8, 9, and 10-speed rear wheels the non-driveside spokes will have about 65% as much tension as the driveside. And the driveside spokes will be at least 2 mm shorter than the non-driveside. If the driveside spokes are too long you'll run out of threads before reaching the target tension.
Al
Al
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,848
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Hi again.. thanks for the answers.
Well Since the size of the spokes was sort of odd and hard to find in the stores 271-273 i went to the nearer even size, since 1 mm isnt that critical i went to the same size for both sides 274. Actually the wheel is round and nice but the non dive side might be like 20 + % less tension than the drive side. So I was just wondering if there was a trick to even the tension in cases like mine...
Thanks...
Well Since the size of the spokes was sort of odd and hard to find in the stores 271-273 i went to the nearer even size, since 1 mm isnt that critical i went to the same size for both sides 274. Actually the wheel is round and nice but the non dive side might be like 20 + % less tension than the drive side. So I was just wondering if there was a trick to even the tension in cases like mine...
Thanks...
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Hi again.. thanks for the answers.
Well Since the size of the spokes was sort of odd and hard to find in the stores 271-273 i went to the nearer even size, since 1 mm isnt that critical i went to the same size for both sides 274. Actually the wheel is round and nice but the non dive side might be like 20 + % less tension than the drive side. So I was just wondering if there was a trick to even the tension in cases like mine...
Thanks...
Well Since the size of the spokes was sort of odd and hard to find in the stores 271-273 i went to the nearer even size, since 1 mm isnt that critical i went to the same size for both sides 274. Actually the wheel is round and nice but the non dive side might be like 20 + % less tension than the drive side. So I was just wondering if there was a trick to even the tension in cases like mine...
Thanks...
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
Hi again.. thanks for the answers.
Well Since the size of the spokes was sort of odd and hard to find in the stores 271-273 i went to the nearer even size, since 1 mm isnt that critical i went to the same size for both sides 274. Actually the wheel is round and nice but the non dive side might be like 20 + % less tension than the drive side. So I was just wondering if there was a trick to even the tension in cases like mine...
Thanks...
Well Since the size of the spokes was sort of odd and hard to find in the stores 271-273 i went to the nearer even size, since 1 mm isnt that critical i went to the same size for both sides 274. Actually the wheel is round and nice but the non dive side might be like 20 + % less tension than the drive side. So I was just wondering if there was a trick to even the tension in cases like mine...
Thanks...
Spokes that are too long may be a problem, however, because you'll run out of threads on the drive side spokes before the non-drive side spokes come up to tension.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,848
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I have the rim very well dished... but my concern was about that tension differential retro is talking about. Im not going to get worried then...
Thanks again
Thanks again
#9
drink slinger
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Yeah, don't worry. It's supposed to be like that. Actually, it's usually plenty more than the 20% you're talking about.
__________________
Five is right out!
Five is right out!