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  1. #1
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    I got a dishing tool

    I had my wheels in pretty good shape, but I ordered a dishing tool to make sure everything was all right. I loosened all the spokes on the back wheel and started from scratch. After I got both sides down to around 45#, I started dishing the wheel. I had to pull the drive side over about an inch. I kept taking half turns, then taking the wheel off the truing stand and using the dishing tool again. After doing this several times I finally got the wheel centered. Now comes the problem, by the time I got it centered, I have the drive side up to 137# and the non drive side is anywhere from 51# to 76#. If I pull the ND side up the spokes on the drive side will be to tight. If I put some slack on the drive side and take up the ND side the wheel wont be dished right. I hope somebody can tell me what to do. I worked on it for 6 hours yesterday and another 4 hours today.
    George

  2. #2
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    That seems like an awfully big tension differential. What do you mean by #? That's usually a pound symbol.
    The 9 and 10-speed wheels that I've worked on have the non-driveside spoke tension at about 65% of the driveside spoke tension. Tension numbers are usually shown in kgf.
    I dish my wheels by reversing the wheel on the truing stand several times until the rim fits the calipers equally on both sides. I don't have a dishing gauge.

    Al
    Last edited by Al1943; 02-13-08 at 09:27 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    I should have said they a Mavic Open Sport. I'm sorry I used the wrong terminology, yes it is 137kgf and 51 to 76kgf.
    George

  4. #4
    cab horn
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    You should double check your spoke lengths and make sure you're using the dishing tool correctly. Most people have a reverse idea of what the dish stick is telling them to do.

    If the dish stick tells you that it's supposed to go this way and you do the supposed fix - reverse it in the stand. The dish should get better not worse. Are you stress relieving?
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  5. #5
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    Yes I did stress relieve it and every time I used the dishing tool I flipped the wheel and adjusted the tool again. I read just about everything there is to read on this and it's really got me pulling my hair out.
    George

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    Do you have instructions for how to use the tool?
    If not you might try the Park Tool site.
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=82

    Al
    Last edited by Al1943; 02-13-08 at 08:38 PM.

  7. #7
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    That is a really big tension differential. I usually see 55%-75% on modern hubs. The 75% would be for an off-center spokeline on the rim (Aerohead OC).

    How true is the weel? If it's out of true a couple mm, you can't really check dish reliably. You should check dish at several points around the wheel.

  8. #8
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    The wheel is centered in the stays on the bike and I'm off that much with the tension. I'm going to try and put a little more tension on it tomorrow without throwing it off, I hope.
    George

  9. #9
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by George View Post
    The wheel is centered in the stays on the bike and I'm off that much with the tension. I'm going to try and put a little more tension on it tomorrow without throwing it off, I hope.
    I wouldn't use this (your frame) as a guage although the wheel ultimately needs to be dished for it whether or not it's straight
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  10. #10
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by George View Post
    Yes I did stress relieve it and every time I used the dishing tool I flipped the wheel and adjusted the tool again. I read just about everything there is to read on this and it's really got me pulling my hair out.
    Just trying to understand what you're saying here. You say you "adjusted the tool again." You should only adjust the tool once per check. Loosen the marker, ends on rim, tighten marker so it's on the axle's locknut. Flip the wheel, place the ends on the SAME PLACE in the rim and see if the pointer is touching the lock nut first or the ends are touching the rim first.

    It's important to use the locknuts, not the axle ends. It's also important to use the same two spots in the rim. Note that you only have to track one spot, because the other end can only go to one place if you're on the same side of the locknut.

  11. #11
    Senior Member JTGraphics's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=waterrockets;6163399 " You should only adjust the tool once per check. Loosen the marker, ends on rim, tighten marker so it's on the axle's locknut. Flip the wheel, place the ends on the SAME PLACE in the rim and see if the pointer is touching the lock nut first or the ends are touching the rim first.

    It's important to use the locknuts, not the axle ends. It's also important to use the same two spots in the rim. Note that you only have to track one spot, because the other end can only go to one place if you're on the same side of the locknut.[/QUOTE]

    This sounds like whats wrong
    It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
    http://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm

  12. #12
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    I will try that, I was using the axle ends. I've been working on this for another 3 hours this morning. I could take it to the LBS, but it's something I want to get. It'll probably kill me, just kidding I hope. Thanks for the help and I'm going to try again, right now.
    George

  13. #13
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    Are you sure you got the axle assembly right; I mean have you got the washers and spacers on the appropriate sides (not inversed?) Obviously, this will make a huge difference with regard to centering. Check on the shimano tech pages if any doubt.

  14. #14
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    Get the wheel in perfect shape first. It should be well centered, well dished and true. Do not bother about spoke tensioning before the wheel is nearly perfect.

    Then slowly increase spoke tension by small increments (1/4 turn). Complete one side then the opposite. Stress relieve and check the wheel after handling both sides.

    If all is OK repeat the process.

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