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  1. #1
    Senior Member masi61's Avatar
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    Uniglide cassette mayhem

    Like some of my brothers and sisters here and in the classic and vintage, I am a throwback, technology-wise to the 1980's. To me, going from 6 speed to 7 speed cassettes was a quantum leap forward. I could probably run the same Shimano 105 hub with Uniglide cassette forever if I wanted to. I do have back ups but don't think I'll need them for quite a while.

    Sometime this year, I am planning on building up a Dura Ace 7400 Uniglide hub up into a contemporary clincher wheelset. I'm really looking forward to this.
    I have the special tool for removing the cassette body if I need to.

    I also have 2 sets of Deore LX combination UG/HG 7 speed cassette hubsets (black anodized), one already converted to 126mm rear locknut spacing thanks to a high quality Wheels Manufacturing replacement 137mm axle with Shimano threading. I also have a new in the box Deore XT silver 6 speed Uniglide only hubset that is very pretty that I was considering retrofitting with a hyperglide 7 speed cassette body.

    Then I came across this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=021

    Shimano Freehub spare parts box, and for the price I couldn't pass on it. I'm still waiting but figure I will get it this week one day.
    It appears to be from the very early days of 5 and 6 speed Uniglide cassettes. I figure the parts may or may not be interchangeable. I noticed all the cogs are black. I tend to use the silver ones but if they mix and match, I doubt there will ever be a shortage.
    The instruction sheet on the cover of the box and all the little parts like pawls, bearings, seals, an inner and outer races sounds interesting even if I don't end up actually using them. I love stuff like this that lets me go back in time a little. Its like an archeological dig into the genesis of cassettes , just my cup of tea.

    Just thought I'd share what I've been up to this fine Sunday morning.

  2. #2
    cycles per second Gonzo Bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by masi61 View Post
    I doubt there will ever be a shortage.
    Yeah, for you, you Unihog! What about the rest of us still running Uniglide?

    I still run 6-speed Uniglide on my two pairs of mt bike wheels. Been getting my replacement cogs from LooseScrews.com. I did convert my 7-speed UG road bike to HG, though.

  3. #3
    Senior Member masi61's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gonzo Bob View Post
    Yeah, for you, you Unihog! What about the rest of us still running Uniglide?

    I still run 6-speed Uniglide on my two pairs of mt bike wheels. Been getting my replacement cogs from LooseScrews.com. I did convert my 7-speed UG road bike to HG, though.
    You nailed me Gonzo Bob, I'm a "Uni-Hog" ! Honestly, due to the dwindling supply, I've been feverishly trying to migrate to 7 speed Hyperglide. Wouldn't it be great if some of the American job shops that stepped forward in the 1990's to create high quality components for mountain and road bikes could again step up? My request: New Uniglide, and Suntour Accushift patterned cassette cogs and lock rings to fit these obsolete standards.

    Back to reality...I've never tried reversing UG cogs to get more life out of one, but I read on the Harris Cyclery site that you can do this to double the life on splined sprockets. Personally, I don't think I ever wore out a UG cog to where it didn't shift right. Mainly, I've had chrome plated ones that start to lose their plating. But I'm pretty easy on parts being mostly a fair weather road biker.

  4. #4
    Pwnerer Wordbiker's Avatar
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    If you're really into the retro thing...I have an IBM PS/2 computer from the same era I'll gladly sell you for original cost.
    Quote Originally Posted by ahsposo View Post
    Ski, bike and wish I was gay.

  5. #5
    Senior Member melville's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by masi61 View Post
    Like some of my brothers and sisters here and in the classic and vintage, I am a throwback, technology-wise to the 1980's. To me, going from 6 speed to 7 speed cassettes was a quantum leap forward. I could probably run the same Shimano 105 hub with Uniglide cassette forever if I wanted to. I do have back ups but don't think I'll need them for quite a while.

    Sometime this year, I am planning on building up a Dura Ace 7400 Uniglide hub up into a contemporary clincher wheelset. I'm really looking forward to this.
    I have the special tool for removing the cassette body if I need to.

    I also have 2 sets of Deore LX combination UG/HG 7 speed cassette hubsets (black anodized), one already converted to 126mm rear locknut spacing thanks to a high quality Wheels Manufacturing replacement 137mm axle with Shimano threading. I also have a new in the box Deore XT silver 6 speed Uniglide only hubset that is very pretty that I was considering retrofitting with a hyperglide 7 speed cassette body.

    Then I came across this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=021

    Shimano Freehub spare parts box, and for the price I couldn't pass on it. I'm still waiting but figure I will get it this week one day.
    It appears to be from the very early days of 5 and 6 speed Uniglide cassettes. I figure the parts may or may not be interchangeable. I noticed all the cogs are black. I tend to use the silver ones but if they mix and match, I doubt there will ever be a shortage.
    The instruction sheet on the cover of the box and all the little parts like pawls, bearings, seals, an inner and outer races sounds interesting even if I don't end up actually using them. I love stuff like this that lets me go back in time a little. Its like an archeological dig into the genesis of cassettes , just my cup of tea.

    Just thought I'd share what I've been up to this fine Sunday morning.

    Nice score! A bit of warning--if you are using index shifting the cogs will not work mixed in to the middle of a cassette. They will work as the smallest or largest cog. They may also work if used as a complete set. The deal, as much as I've been able to figure out, is that the relative "center" of the cogs is different between index and pre-index. If you're really obsessed, you may be able to do something with spacers, but I think you'd have to make/modify them yourself. I dimly remember (19 years ago) trying different combinations of 3.0 and 3.1 and 3.3 and having none of them quite work right.

  6. #6
    Senior Member masi61's Avatar
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    Whoah! I wondered about incompatibility but hadn't considered that this set if from pre-indexing times. I'll have to get the metric dial calipers out when the set comes and take some measurements. Are these cogs even called Uniglide at all? There was no mention of that term in the ebay ad, I just assumed this was the same cog design since they are early Shimano cassette cogs.

  7. #7
    Senior Member melville's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by masi61 View Post
    Whoah! I wondered about incompatibility but hadn't considered that this set if from pre-indexing times. I'll have to get the metric dial calipers out when the set comes and take some measurements. Are these cogs even called Uniglide at all? There was no mention of that term in the ebay ad, I just assumed this was the same cog design since they are early Shimano cassette cogs.
    Uniglide is the twisted tooth idea that Shimano uses. I cannot recall ever seeing a Freehub cog that was not twist tooth (except for some of the funky DA wave motion stuff of the AX era). What I remember is that I was really cheap when I went 8S on my mountain bike in 1989 with a DA freehub and tried to use some obsolete cogs. I had 4 black ones and 4 index cogs going from most teeth to least teeth and I could adjust the index to work on the 4 big cogs or the 4 small cogs but not both at once. IIRC I couldn't make the spacer between champagne cogs and black cogs thin enough to work.

    After a couple weeks I got paid again and blew my beer money on 4 more index cogs and the issues vanished. If I could have gotten pre index cogs for the 4 small positions that probably would have worked as well, but there were none available to me at the time. Also, the black cogs never came with the built-in spacer in the right thickness for 7S and 8S, which is an issue with the threaded cog and the second position cog on a DA UG FH.

    At present (and for the last several years) my 8S mountain wheel has an 11t 6S DA EX/AX threaded cog, 6 'index' cogs, and a black 34 pre-index and everything works just great, as the end positions are about the travel stops on the derailleur and not the index clicky spots.

    Good luck!

  8. #8
    Senior Member masi61's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply,

    I just got the delivery and inspected everything. Unfortunately the little tool for unthreading the cassette body is missing from the kit. The black cogs are indeed thin. There were some miscellaneous freehub body parts that I played around with that appear to fit on some low end hubs. I kind of bought the kit on impulse, mostly because I wanted more product knowledge from the era. Unfortunately, it could be 20 more years before I dip into any of this stuff, it'll probably get re-sold on ebay at some point.

  9. #9
    Squirrel solveg's Avatar
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    You have a special tool for removing a uniglide? I just use 2 chain whips--

    I have 3 bikes with uniglide...well, now 2, since I upgraded one to hyperglide.

  10. #10
    Senior Member masi61's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by solveg View Post
    You have a special tool for removing a uniglide? I just use 2 chain whips--

    I have 3 bikes with uniglide...well, now 2, since I upgraded one to hyperglide.
    Actually I'm talking about a special tool that is used to dismantle the freehub body itself to get to the bearings, seals and pawls on the inside. Call me crazy, but somewhere I got the idea that I wanted to go all the way with a disassembly and rebuild with fresh bearings.

  11. #11
    Squirrel solveg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by masi61 View Post
    Actually I'm talking about a special tool that is used to dismantle the freehub body itself to get to the bearings, seals and pawls on the inside. Call me crazy, but somewhere I got the idea that I wanted to go all the way with a disassembly and rebuild with fresh bearings.
    That actually seems like a reasonable idea... those uniglide cassettes are hard to find.

  12. #12
    Senior Member melville's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by masi61 View Post
    Actually I'm talking about a special tool that is used to dismantle the freehub body itself to get to the bearings, seals and pawls on the inside. Call me crazy, but somewhere I got the idea that I wanted to go all the way with a disassembly and rebuild with fresh bearings.
    I remember that tool only fitting DA freehub bodies. I used it once--about a year after I went 8S on the mountain bike I munched one of the pawls in the body. Something about applying track sprinter torque through a 24 chainring and a 34 cog. I took it apart to see what I could do, and without spares I could do nothing. I went without beer for a week or two and bought a new FH body ($$). About a month later, a local racer came into the shop with a similar problem and I took his apart after telling him my story. He had only munched one pawl as well, so I opened my baby food jar of DA shrapnel, got out my one good pawl, and reassembled it. I didn't charge him (no guarantee), but he paid me in about the amount of foregone beer from the month before.

    Anyway, tools beyond chainwhips and the FH body removal tools are pretty useless unless you have SPECIFIC internal bits available.

  13. #13
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    Highpath engineering make spacers for Suntour accushift on HG freehubs

  14. #14
    Senior Member Yogurt's Avatar
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    I rebuilt my uniglide hub, including all 50 1/8" bearings in the freehub body. It was an awesome learning experience. The tool is nearly impossible to find, and very expensive on eBay. The part number is TL-FH40. Best bet is to find a shop that can loosen it for you, take it home and service it, and then return to have it tightened when you are done.

  15. #15
    cs1
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    Hopefully not off topic: There seems to be a supply of Deore XT Uniglide hubs that hit the market in the last year. Do you need a special tool to take the cassette hub body off the hub? I was considering buying a set for a period project. IMO, it would be easier to use current HG 7 sp cassettes than the old Uniglide 6 sp versions.


    Tim
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  16. #16
    Squirrel solveg's Avatar
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    Wasn't Deore way later than uniglide?

  17. #17
    Senior Member melville's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cs1 View Post
    Hopefully not off topic: There seems to be a supply of Deore XT Uniglide hubs that hit the market in the last year. Do you need a special tool to take the cassette hub body off the hub? I was considering buying a set for a period project. IMO, it would be easier to use current HG 7 sp cassettes than the old Uniglide 6 sp versions.


    Tim
    The only special tools of which I am aware are the DA tool and the ancient (pre 1983) 600 puller. Everything else should take the 10mm allen wrench.

    Check Sheldon's site for compatability of hub shells/FH bodies. Some interesting possibilities there.

  18. #18
    cycles per second Gonzo Bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by solveg View Post
    Wasn't Deore way later than uniglide?
    Deore predates HyperGlide by at least 3 years. My 1987 mt bike came equiped with Deore.

  19. #19
    cs1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gonzo Bob View Post
    Deore predates HyperGlide by at least 3 years. My 1987 mt bike came equiped with Deore.
    My 1989 Deore has the hybrid Hyperglide/Uniglide cassette hub.

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  20. #20
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    Spin Forest! Spin! WNG's Avatar
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    Deore was originally a touring group. Then along came Deore DX, then XT, XTR, LX, and Deore again.

    As for swapping the 6spd freehub body, as long as you have a 7spd body, or 8spd body and 4.5mm spacer, all it should take is a 10mm hex key to utilize your 7spd cassettes.
    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
    I'd rather add more life to my years, than years to my life.

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