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  1. #1
    human velocipedio's Avatar
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    ISIS drive crank installation

    i just installed a new fsa bb and crankset on my cyclo-cross bike, and i want to make sure that i have it installed correctly. the left side crank is below. as you can see, the shoulder of the splined bb spindle stands out a but from the inside surface of the crank arm. i don't want to over-tighten, but does this look correct? this is my first-ever splined bb/crank...
    when walking, just walk. when sitting, just sit. when riding, just ride. above all, don't wobble.

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  2. #2
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    I would say its fine but I am not 100% sure, I know that it is like impossible to install isis wrong so I would say its ok.

  3. #3
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    If you installed the drive side TIGHT and then TIGHTENED the left side you should be good to go.
    Make sure you greased every thing and if you should get some creaking, plumbers(teflon) tape on the threads helps.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member BAC5.2's Avatar
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    Looks good.

    I would take a pic of the BB on my Scream, but I am running a different BB and it doesnt look ANYTHING like that
    2003 Banshee Scream. Banshee Pride!

  5. #5
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    Velo, you should use a torque wrench to istall the BB and the cranks properly. Use thread locker on the BB cups, install and tighten the drive side to 35 - 37 ft lbs, then install the non-drive side and torque it to the same, grease the splines for the cranks and install the arms, use just a dab of grease on the bolts and make sure the crank arm bolt washers are in place, thread in the bolts and torque them to 30 - 32 ft lbs, you should be good to go. This is the proper installation procedure, if you install the BB and crank arms without using a torque wrench you are taking a chance on ruining your new crankset. If your arms are not far enough on the taper spline they will loosen on you first ride and could widen the splines on the arms. The arms should go all the way to the stops on the BB when prperly torqued.
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  6. #6
    human velocipedio's Avatar
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    i used anti-seize on the bb cups, spindle and bolts. i don't use a thread locker because this is a cyclo-cross bike and, let's face it, the bb comes out somewhat more frequently. i retightened everything just this morning, so i think everything is okay. in any event, it's a damned sight stiffer than the old square-taper bb/crank...
    when walking, just walk. when sitting, just sit. when riding, just ride. above all, don't wobble.

    The Irregular Cycling Club of Montreal
    Cycling irregularly since 2002

  7. #7
    Senior Member keithnordstrom's Avatar
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    also make sure you have included both of the spacers that should have come with the kit, they look awkward to fit in there at first - but they are necessary to bring the cranks close enough to the bb that they won't fall off/round out.

  8. #8
    Back in the Sooner State
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    You can find the exact torque specs on FSA's website. I did that when I put a FSA in my bike.

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