Cleanly installing Wired Computer?
#1
Steel Frame
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Cleanly installing Wired Computer?
I bought a Specialized computer that has a cadence sensor and rear wheel speed sensor.
I have searched this forum and the web for instructions on how to very cleanly install the computer and hide excess wiring around the chainstay. I read Sheldon Brown's tips. I have not found any useful info that covers this aesthetic issue. Luckily my frame is black and so is the wiring.
Especially, the slack between the Cadence sensor and the speed sensor. Do you have any photos of how you have your system installed? I know I could get it on the bike, but I really want it to look as nice as possible. I'd even be prepared to cut and splice the wires if that is suggested. I have repaired computer wires this way.
Thanks!
I have searched this forum and the web for instructions on how to very cleanly install the computer and hide excess wiring around the chainstay. I read Sheldon Brown's tips. I have not found any useful info that covers this aesthetic issue. Luckily my frame is black and so is the wiring.
Especially, the slack between the Cadence sensor and the speed sensor. Do you have any photos of how you have your system installed? I know I could get it on the bike, but I really want it to look as nice as possible. I'd even be prepared to cut and splice the wires if that is suggested. I have repaired computer wires this way.
Thanks!
#2
Pwnerer
It varies from bike to bike, but here's a few tips:
If your frame has vent holes, the wire can sometimes be run internally.
To avoid zip ties, use dabs of silicone adhesive along the run of wire and under the sensors, electrical tape will hold it in place until it dries, peeling off clean. The silicone can be peeled off later if needed.
Route the wire up the front brake cable, winding it around. If you're clever you can slip it through a section of shrink tubing to keep it from unraveling.
Leave enough slack for your bars to turn as much as they can.
Good luck with it.
If your frame has vent holes, the wire can sometimes be run internally.
To avoid zip ties, use dabs of silicone adhesive along the run of wire and under the sensors, electrical tape will hold it in place until it dries, peeling off clean. The silicone can be peeled off later if needed.
Route the wire up the front brake cable, winding it around. If you're clever you can slip it through a section of shrink tubing to keep it from unraveling.
Leave enough slack for your bars to turn as much as they can.
Good luck with it.
#3
Steel Frame
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Thanks for the tips.
The biggest problem is dealing with the excess wire by the wheel. Specifically about a few inches of the cadence wire, and several extra inches of the speed wire. The frame is a 54cm road bike. Also, where the split is, places the split right under the bottom bracket, leaving a thick junction connector there...
The biggest problem is dealing with the excess wire by the wheel. Specifically about a few inches of the cadence wire, and several extra inches of the speed wire. The frame is a 54cm road bike. Also, where the split is, places the split right under the bottom bracket, leaving a thick junction connector there...
#4
Pwnerer
Yes, computer wires are sized long enough to fit the largest frames. On small frames you'll need to wind more of the wire around the front brake housing to take up some slack, hopefully so the sensors just reach. If this still leaves too much wire for the rear sensor, try to find something else to wind the excess around, or just cut and splice the wire if you feel comfortable doing so.
If you can find it, there is a type of shrink tubing with hot-melt adhesive inside that will also seal the wire against water intrusion. The low budget tip is again silicone. Put a dab on your splice before shrinking the tubing. The excess should squeeze out where it can be wiped off.
I'm sick that way, but I like the challenge of installing computers as cleanly and with as few zip ties as possible.
If you can find it, there is a type of shrink tubing with hot-melt adhesive inside that will also seal the wire against water intrusion. The low budget tip is again silicone. Put a dab on your splice before shrinking the tubing. The excess should squeeze out where it can be wiped off.
I'm sick that way, but I like the challenge of installing computers as cleanly and with as few zip ties as possible.
#5
Senior Member
I've always been able to completely take up the excess sensor wire slack simply by making more turns around the cable housing you're using as a guide. Some small black tie-wraps are handy at each end to secure the endpoints where the sensor wire starts and stops on the housing.
- Mark
- Mark
#6
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Is computer wire coaxial, or just 2 distinct wires?
If distinct wires, a couple of ideas might be neat to try...
1) I would pick a spot with low visibility and run the wires the right length to meet at that point, then solder and follow the previosuly mentioned heat shrink and silicone trick. You would end up with customized wire length.
2) cut the wires near the sensor and computer mount, and replace them with wires the color of your computer... again you could make them the perfect length.
Now I am wondering about my bikes...
If distinct wires, a couple of ideas might be neat to try...
1) I would pick a spot with low visibility and run the wires the right length to meet at that point, then solder and follow the previosuly mentioned heat shrink and silicone trick. You would end up with customized wire length.
2) cut the wires near the sensor and computer mount, and replace them with wires the color of your computer... again you could make them the perfect length.
Now I am wondering about my bikes...
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#7
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The heat shrink on the cable works well. You can cut short ¼" or so lengths. This does require the removal of the brake cable to do. I've also found zip ties in a multitude of colors and used some yellow ones that nearly match the color of the lettering on one bike so it accents, rather than sticks out like a black one would. It also goes without saying, although I've seen otherwise, trim the extra length of the zip ties.
#8
Steel Frame
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Does anyone have any photos of wired cadence set-ups?
I don't mind soldering. If the wire is core or paired, a little solder joining them should matter. Electrical taping to protect the join is plenty protection from the elements. Shrink tubing is certainly a cool solution that might avoid electrical tape. As mentioned this bike is black.
My LBS will be happy to install it for me. They do great wheel work etc. I have other things I do not want to do myself so for 10 bucks it might be worth it. I just want a good clean job.
Thanks for all the suggestions! Pictures of nice solutions could help a lot.
I don't mind soldering. If the wire is core or paired, a little solder joining them should matter. Electrical taping to protect the join is plenty protection from the elements. Shrink tubing is certainly a cool solution that might avoid electrical tape. As mentioned this bike is black.
My LBS will be happy to install it for me. They do great wheel work etc. I have other things I do not want to do myself so for 10 bucks it might be worth it. I just want a good clean job.
Thanks for all the suggestions! Pictures of nice solutions could help a lot.
#9
Senior Member
I would avoid breaking the wires. They're typically VERY fine and extremely hard to solder. That would be the tail wagging the dog to start breaking wires and soldering just to make it look "cleaner". If a clean look is that big a deal, then get a different wireless model.
- Mark
- Mark
#10
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I've considered cutting out the excess and resplicing but, by the time you shrink wrap the joint, I think it'd look every bit as obtrusive as a neatly zip tied coil.
#11
Pwnerer
At the shop I never cut a wire. For one, the job as the OP pointed out is worth $10. Once you do a few installs, you learn a few tricks with wrapping, zip ties and pure intuition that still result in a clean install. Some of my suggestions were aimed at someone looking for the "ultimate clean" install. You can really only go that far if your time is free.
#12
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One trick: Run the excess wire down under two loose zip ties, back up to the top one and then back down under the zip ties to form a "loop". Spread the ties to take the slack out then tighten them. A piece of shrink tube or some silicone can help hold the loop flat if necessary.
Cutting and splicing can "interfere" with warranties.
Cutting and splicing can "interfere" with warranties.
Last edited by Torque1st; 03-08-08 at 12:44 AM.
#13
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I use a method similar to Torque's to take up excess slack on the chainstay except I use colored duct tape instead of zip ties. I cut the tape into 1/4" strips using an xacto knife and a plastic cutting board to get clean pieces.
#14
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Plastic spiral wrap is much better than zip ties. Radio Shack has it. Here is a photo of a bridge rectifier I use with a dynamo to convert AC to DC for my LED headlight. You can see where I put spiral wrap over the brake cable and cycle computer wire to separate both from the positive and negative wires going to the headlight. It's easy to install. Just cut the length you need and wrap it around the tubing and wire.
The sensor wire moves with the brake cable so the cable will never damage it. The brake cable would eventually cause damage to the headlight wire due to bumps and moving the cable when braking. Using the spiral wrap eliminates cable scrub on the wires which would eventually cut through the insulation of the wires causing interment shorts to ground. This stuff works very well as a chain stay protector as well. As no glue is used it's easy to remove and clean or replace. I also use it to hold spare spokes on my chain stay.
The sensor wire moves with the brake cable so the cable will never damage it. The brake cable would eventually cause damage to the headlight wire due to bumps and moving the cable when braking. Using the spiral wrap eliminates cable scrub on the wires which would eventually cut through the insulation of the wires causing interment shorts to ground. This stuff works very well as a chain stay protector as well. As no glue is used it's easy to remove and clean or replace. I also use it to hold spare spokes on my chain stay.
Last edited by n4zou; 03-08-08 at 10:51 AM.
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I do the same. On my first one I coiled the wire and attached it under the chainstay for appearance, but it got cut by debris. Since then I've put the wire on the top of the chainstay and the top tube.
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They make that spiral wrap in several sizes with both clear (natural) and black commonly available. The clear material like natural color zip ties does not do well outside with UV radiation. There is also a split corrugated black wire loom material available in many sizes at auto parts stores etc.
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For the cadence (rear chainstay mounted) I coil the excess a bit around the chainstay, run it on the underside of the downtube, make a loop and knot the cable around one of the shifter cable bosses on the downtube so that the dowtube-hanging portion is under tension but the cable leading up to the handlebars is free to move with the bars, and secure the slack cable with electrical tape. No cable ties, looks clean.
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so i have a Sigma Sport BC1600 and the cadence wire and speed sensor each have two wires that converge into one. would it be safe to cut these and solder them into a shorter more custom fit? im worried that inside the wiree might be some miniature form of a coaxial cable. but if its simply two wires running parallel against each other shortening it shouldnt make a difference.
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so i have a Sigma Sport BC1600 and the cadence wire and speed sensor each have two wires that converge into one. would it be safe to cut these and solder them into a shorter more custom fit? im worried that inside the wiree might be some miniature form of a coaxial cable. but if its simply two wires running parallel against each other shortening it shouldnt make a difference.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.
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I don't know if its THE neatest solution in the world but when the LBS installed a dual sensor wired computer for me (Sigma BC1600) they wrapped all the loose cable around the brake/gear cables up the top like so,
Anthony
Anthony
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^ Yea that is what I meant. I think it isn't bad - I would have wrapped yours tighter though.
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[QUOTE= Do you have any photos of how you have your system installed? I know I could get it on the bike, but I really want it to look as nice as possible. I'd even be prepared to cut and splice the wires if that is suggested. I have repaired computer wires this way.
Thanks![/QUOTE]
Here ya go
Thanks![/QUOTE]
Here ya go