FixdGearHead

Racing in this year's Mt. Washington Hillclimb

It's an average grade of 12% with sections peaking at 18% (final 50 yds at 22%).

My road bike (2007 BMC Team Machine) is currently set up with a compact 34/50 FSA-K force crankset and a 11/23 9spd cassette (my Roval hub accept both 9 and 10 speed cassettes...but my Ultegra shifter is and older 9spd).

This is my first trip up Mt Washington, so want to have plenty of crazy low gear options; want to play it safe this first time around and experiment in future races. Based on searching around sounds like a lot of people run their lowest gear as 30 to 24 in front, and a 12x34 cassette.

Question: what are my options to get this setup? (ie to what extent will I need to alter my bike...different wheels, different R.D., etc)

demoncyclist

I have a friend who did it a couple of years ago. He had a triple crank installed with just a small granny ring (he left the other 2 off to save the weight). Then he switched out his Ultegra rear derailleur and 12-27 cassette for an XT rear derailleur and 13-34 cassette.

MacG

I run a 3x8 setup on my touring bike with an 11 to 32 tooth cassette and 48, 36, 24 chainrings. 24/32 is a pretty insanely low gear even with 700x32 tires. I use it somewhat regularly when pulling my cargo trailer or climbing steep hills with loaded panniers. For just a road bike, I doubt you will need this low of gearing.

11-32 cassettes are easy to find, and 11-34 cassettes are somewhat common in 9 speed (but not 8 speed for some reason). Swapping out for a compact triple and using one of these cassettes should give you all the gearing you need and then some. Bear in mind that you will need to use a long cage derailleur for this due to the extreme difference in chain engagement over the whole gear range.

When you set it up and are sizing the chain, make sure that you can shift into every gear combination including big/big. If the chain is just a link too short and you accidentally shift into this gear, bad things will happen. Similarly, make sure the chain is not excessively long. You should be able to shift into the small/small gear without the lower run of chain hitting the front of the derailleur cage. If you can't get both of these at once, you need a longer cage derailleur. I can fit 11-32 and 48/36/24 with a typical Shimano (Deore XT) long cage derailleur without problems, but there isn't much room for error on chain length.

HillRider

With your current crank, you are as low as it will take. You could fit a 11x32 or 12x34 cassette but you would have to change your rear derailleur as a road rd won't handle a cog that large.

I know of riders who have fitted a cheap MTB crank and bottom bracket just for the MW ride. They have 22/32/42 chainrings and a 12x27 cassette which provides a very low low gear. This is a pretty low cost change if you stick with a low-line crank.

Gonzo Bob

I hear ya about having low gears. A few years ago I did a triathlon with a ~1 mile 15% grade in the first third of the 26 mile bike. I put on a 34/30 low gear thinking that I wouldn't even use it. Boy was I glad I had it!

Since you run 9-speed, you can use an MTB cassette. Go get an 11-34 and an MTB rear derailer.

supton

What about a 12-27 and swapping the crank to something like 30/46? I don't know what kind of crankset would be required, maybe an MTB crankset (minus the outer ring); but perhaps it would take the least amount of parts swapping? Just move the FD down?

Owner

For a compact crank, a 33T is actually the smallest ring you can run, but that's no substitute for a triple.

zac

Mt Washington is tough for oh so many reasons. The wind, the weather and the fact that it never, ever, not once, and not even for an inch gives you a break. It is up the entire way and the top is a nightmare.

It's frankenbike time. You have done some research. It is hard to say what you will need as it depends on your conditioning and climbing abilities, but to be safe you at least need a bailout with a 1:1 ratio. You only need about three gears for the rock pile and you probably will only use 2. many run a mountain rear with a triple small in the front. loose the front derailleur you dont need it. You can get away with your road RD just remember not to shift it outside the range in your warmups. You can easily spend a grand getting a bike ready for that climb. But you can also just try to be careful by pushing the limits of your current components and being careful not to shift outside what your RD can handle. Dont worry about cassette spacing, you will only be using a couple of gears so set up the shifting just for those. (Sorry for the stream type post, but I am on my way out)

Hope that helped a little
zac

operator

Don't just loosen it, take it off entirely.

FixdGearHead

Thanks all for the advice.

I'm an r-tard when it comes to gearing...what do you mean by a 1:1 ratio? Would that be something like 34 in front, 34 in back? (annnnd now I'm off to Sheldon's site to educate myself ;-) )

HillRider

That's exactly what it means.

Hammertoe

I did the Practice Ride last year and was at the starting line for the Race when it was canceled...

And I will be at the starting line again this year...



I ride a 48/36/26 Deore Crank with a XT derailer a 11-34 cassette so my lowest gear is 26 x 34...

I used it periodically, glad I had it, but do not think I needed much more. I know I would NOT have 'enjoyed' the ride if I was geared only 1:1...

Go low my friend, always nice to have what you don't need...


I know Red Jersey Cyclery will outfit your bike for the ride. You can give them a call...

https://www.redjersey.com/

Certainly you can ask questions on the Hillclimb Forum...

https://www.mtwashingtonbicyclehillcl...36094C72E1DE53

And look through the Northeast Cycling site. There is a lot of great info here...

https://www.northeastcycling.com/hillclimb_handbook.htm (Check out the GEARING section mid-way down)

https://www.northeastcycling.com/NE_Climbs_main.html

ken cummings

Look up the Schlumpf Mountain Drive. A special widget inside the bottom bracket that can, at will,drop any gear you have to 40% of what it was before. Got a 20 inch low (like my bike)? This will give you a 8 inch low option.

See Harris Lake Cyclery for more details.

klam

I find this gear calculator very helpful. Check it out.

https://velobase.com/Resource_Tools/GearCalc.aspx

Joshua A.C. New

When this is together, let's see some pics!

DDYTDY

I've run fixed with a 20t chainring and a 21t cog.

On my geared bike I have a Micro Drive crankset with a 20T chainring and a 14/25 Ultegra 9sp cassette.

I did last years Newtons practice ride on my geared bike in 1:48, and the make up ride fixed in 1:43

Bulldozer

I'd recommend the mtn bike derailleur and big cassette. I have a friend that did this for a one day ride with 10k feet of climbing and he was real glad he had it.

HillRider

Let's see; an 8" gear at a cadence of 100 rpm gives you a bike speed af about 2.5 mph. I do believe there is such a thing as too low a gear.

Al1943

No reason for an 11 cog on the back, get a 12-34 mountain type cassette with a mountain type rear derailleur. With your 50-34 crankset your lowest gear will be a 34-34 for a 1:1 ratio. If that's not low enough try a 33 on the front. For lower than that you'd need a triple.
If you are in really good shape the 1:1 ratio should be good enough.
Go back to original gearing after the hill climb.

Al

melville

Are you a racer or a rec rider? A skinny freak of nature or a clydesdale?

I did it twice in the 80s as a junior,weighing in at about 150, getting to the top in about 1:20. My gearing was 30t ring, and a freewheel (yes a freewheel) with, from the bottom, 28, 26, and 24 cogs. The other cogs were not used.

HillRider

Tyler Hamilton won the race several years ago riding a low gear of, IIRC, 39x25. All that says is if you are light enough and in Pro-Tour shape, it can be done. Most of us are neither.

FixdGearHead

Former racer (by 'racer' I mean worthless Cat 4 schumck); now just interested in the occasional Hill Climb race. I managed up Mt Evans last year in a little over 3 hrs last Summer.

I'm 5' 10" and in the summer will weigh around 135 (currently 140ish...usually dips down 5lbs lighter during the summer months)

melville

You should be fine with a 1:1 low and a couple close options up from that. Whether or not you can do that with modern stuff I don't know. You will find that you 're going to be turning 60-70 rpm seated. There are issues with traction and wheelies, so in addition to the effort you've got to keep your weight in the right place.

It's also important to ride within your ability. I got second place in the juniors my first time up because at the start I let Phil, who won everything else that year, take off with one of those skinny freaks of nature. I saw Phil again at the six mile point, bonked and zigzagging. I, too, never got past Cat 4 on the road because I became a trackie when I grew up.

Good luck!