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Old 03-08-08, 12:20 PM   #1
calikid2006
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heat gun after painting?

Does it help to heat gun a frame after painting with Dipicolor? Is there a paint that works well with a heat gun?
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Old 03-08-08, 01:25 PM   #2
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Is there a paint that works well with a heat gun?
Not really. Paint should be "cured" or dried, evenly!

If you really must...make a stand to hold the frame in an automotive paint booth.
Then have the shop put it in their booth when they "bake" a car. Paint booth temp is like 165* F.

Haggling with a body shop will be easier than concocting a home "bake" method.

DIYer?
Make a 2'x4'x5' wooden box out of 2x2's and cover with 1/4" plywood. Install a bike hook in the top. Hang frame by BB shell. Place 2-3 floodlights in the box. Bake @ 165* for 1 hour, checking periodically.


If I had the time, I'd tell you all about heat guns, a brand new Kestrel MXZ and the resulting catastrophe!
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Old 03-08-08, 02:18 PM   #3
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Does it help to heat gun a frame after painting with Dipicolor? Is there a paint that works well with a heat gun?
duplicolor dries to the touch after 30 minutes but for better results let it sit for a day. then clearcoat then let that sit for 3 days then polish
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Old 03-08-08, 03:12 PM   #4
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Awesome, so if i do use the bake box method, which paints should i use with that?
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Old 03-08-08, 03:35 PM   #5
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Awesome, so if i do use the bake box method, which paints should i use with that?
enamels or polyurethanes
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Old 03-08-08, 04:52 PM   #6
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OK so im new to this. Are there "enamels" that come in spray can? If so, which are the best for this box oven method.
Thanks
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Old 03-08-08, 07:02 PM   #7
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OK so im new to this. Are there "enamels" that come in spray can? If so, which are the best for this box oven method.
Thanks
yes and it doesnt matter
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Old 03-08-08, 08:20 PM   #8
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Don't know DrD's opinion on this, but I use a stand-up quartz heater. Quartz elements heat objects but do not heat air. Mine's about 2 foot long, so I hang the frame so each tube gets about 30 minutes at around 8 inches. I use auto 2-part paint.
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Old 03-08-08, 09:19 PM   #9
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Is there any paint that will hold well on a frame where the underlying paint has been only partially removed - or it's damaged and you want to cover it all with a new colour?
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Old 03-08-08, 09:50 PM   #10
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I let mine dry for a week or more when using Duplicolor, it usually takes about that long until you can no longer dig a nail into it. Then I use a light polish like Finesse It II from 3M to bring out the gloss. 99% of spray can clears shrink in thickness, so I usually give it at least 3-4 wet coats, waiting about 10 minutes in between. Also paint on the lowest humidity day possible. I painted my last bike on a day that was about 85% humidity, cloudy and about 65*-70*. I had to use a hairdryer immediately after painting each section of the frame to keep it from blushing. Blushing is when moisture on the frame and in the air mixes with the paint and turns it cloudy. A real mess that usually means starting over.,,,,BD
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Old 03-09-08, 04:36 AM   #11
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I'll chime in here

DUPLI-COLOR is THE WORST PAINT IN THE KNOWN UNIVERSE!!

you could throw a rock out the window blindfolded and hit better paint.

go to an AUTOBODY SUPPLY house (color shop) and BUY SOME REAL PAINT.
(yes they sell good rattle can paint)

unless you really love sanding things down and repainting them over and over because the dupli-color paint lasted all of a week before it's so chipped up, you have to start all over again.

if your going to do something, no sense in going through ALL the motions, and doing ALL the work, only to get half baked resuts

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Old 03-09-08, 05:04 AM   #12
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I'll chime in here...

BUY SOME REAL PAINT.

..if your going to do something, no sense in going through ALL the motions, and doing ALL the work, only to get half baked results
Good point!

I had just about given up painting bikes back in '86 because I couldn't get the QUALITY of REAL automotive paints. That's when a friend gave me some Deltron to try.

The rest, as they say, is history.
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Old 03-09-08, 08:13 AM   #13
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As spray paint goes there are MUCH worse paints than Duplicolor! Besides, I got a can of that rattle can
auto paint once. NINE DAYS later I could still dig a nail into it. Never going to fall for that again, lol.,,,,BD

Gun sprayed paint that you can control the components on is the stuff. I will agree with that for sure.
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Old 03-09-08, 09:17 AM   #14
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Duplicolor paints are lacquer and lacquer paints are not durable enough for bicycles. The exception is their wheel paint, which is acrylic enamel for durability. The color choices are very limited, though.

It can get up to 150 degrees in an attic in the summer, so it makes a good place to cure enamel paint.

If you add up the cost of materials to paint a bike using automotive paints, it comes to more than it would cost to have Dr. Deltron paint your frame. That's why he's painting my Peugeot, even though I have the equipment to do it myself. His skill and experience are worth something, too. It's not easy to lay down an even coat of paint on a bicycle frame.
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Old 03-09-08, 10:08 AM   #15
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Duplicolor paints are lacquer and lacquer paints are not durable enough for bicycles. The exception is their wheel paint, which is acrylic enamel for durability. The color choices are very limited, though.

It can get up to 150 degrees in an attic in the summer, so it makes a good place to cure enamel paint.

If you add up the cost of materials to paint a bike using automotive paints, it comes to more than it would cost to have Dr. Deltron paint your frame. That's why he's painting my Peugeot, even though I have the equipment to do it myself. His skill and experience are worth something, too. It's not easy to lay down an even coat of paint on a bicycle frame.
and I'll have to agree with you there too,..... the WHEEL PAINT from dupli-color does last quite a bit longer than their usual "touch up" crap

and yes, there are only about 5 color choices, but I have to admit that I have shot motorcycle parts with it (it was a customer request, and she was really cute) and I also hate to admit it, but the wheels on her ninja 250 that I shot with the "graphite" color, (which looks alot like titanium), looked really good, and lasted much longer than I ever thought it would.

so I guess my question is: if dupli-color can make ONE good paint, why can't they make ALL their paints like that?,........other paint companies do.
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Old 03-09-08, 11:21 AM   #16
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I'll chime in here

DUPLI-COLOR is THE WORST PAINT IN THE KNOWN UNIVERSE!!

you could throw a rock out the window blindfolded and hit better paint.

go to an AUTOBODY SUPPLY house (color shop) and BUY SOME REAL PAINT.
(yes they sell good rattle can paint)

unless you really love sanding things down and repainting them over and over because the dupli-color paint lasted all of a week before it's so chipped up, you have to start all over again.

if your going to do something, no sense in going through ALL the motions, and doing ALL the work, only to get half baked resuts
must be your prepwork i klnow friends that have duplicolor paints last 10 years its all in the prepwork
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Old 03-09-08, 11:31 AM   #17
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This is duplicolor. I went down to steel and brass, black primer, then color, then clear. The primer was allowed to dry for a week, ran out of time anyway so it couldn't be helped.,,,,BD




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Old 03-09-08, 01:51 PM   #18
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that's a good lookin' paint job BD. Others said it doesn't last, so I must ask, how often do you ride that thing (the components look awfully clean).
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Old 03-09-08, 01:59 PM   #19
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Been on the trainer since I finished it. First pic is at completion, second is directly after paint. It doesn't seem to be weaker than any other paint. Most complaints about spray can paint can be traced back to two causes. first is lack of prep, which NO paint will hold onto, ever. Second is failure to wait for the paint to fully cure before assembly.,,,,BD
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Old 03-09-08, 02:06 PM   #20
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I'm going for a ride on it right now, I'll post any chips when the ride is done.,,,,BD
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Old 03-09-08, 02:17 PM   #21
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This is duplicolor. I went down to steel and brass, black primer, then color, then clear. The primer was allowed to dry for a week, ran out of time anyway so it couldn't be helped.,,,,BD





how old is that paint job? (nice work btw)

I'd be curious to see that same shot after a few months of being ridden.
I'm not trying to say that you CAN'T do a nice paint job with rattle can paints,...the point is WHY do all the work, and not get results that will look like the above pic FIVE YEARS after painting it?.

I have posted this many times before but it's good paint so check it out:

you can get automotive urethane basecoats in spray cans now at MANY color shops (autobody supply), it's about $20-$30 a can, but one can will easily cover several bike frames and forks, you can also get really high quality primers and sealers at the same places for a few dollars more per can than at the hardware store

you can also order motorcycle paint colors from these places:
http://www.cyclecolor.com/

or

http://www.color-rite.com/

both are decent quality paints, and are available in some pretty cool colors, so if you like ducati's chrome yellow or whatever, you can get it for your bike.

there are two REAL options as far as clearcoats are concerned:

http://www.levineautoparts.com/upclear1uvre.html

U-Pol clear is a moisture activated high solids clear that will cure out plenty hard enough to sand and polish if you like, and in only about a week (compared to cheaper lacquer clears that may take months to reach full hardness)

or:

http://www.ketone.com/rm_aeromax_urethane_clearcoat.php

the above RM clearcoat is the real deal, honest 2 part polyurethane spray clearcoat in a special one use can that will cure out hard enough to sand and polish the next day. this is the same clearcoat that is the standard of the automotive and custom painting industry, and will perform JUST like spraygun/compressor/mix it yourself clearcoats, only you won't need a compressor, or paintgun, or anything else, so cost wise (yes I know it's almost $40 a can) it's actually LESS money to use that, than to rent a compressor and paint gun, and then go buy base and clear.

so IF you are going to paint your own whip, I applaud you, it's a ton of work, but one of the most satisfying things once your riding around on it, and since your doing the the work, why not spend $40 more bucks and get a paintjob that will last for YEARS , instead of months (or weeks), ya?

(remember to wear a good respirator when using the above stuff, no joke, you only get one set of lungs and only so many brain cells per lifetime)
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Old 03-09-08, 02:23 PM   #22
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Why go through all the trouble of using auto paint from a spray can, when I could pour it in my HVLP and spray it on that way? I just didn't feel like going that far with this bike. Thanks for thinking I was paint ignorant, hehe.,,,BD
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Old 03-09-08, 08:01 PM   #23
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Why go through all the trouble of using auto paint from a spray can, when I could pour it in my HVLP and spray it on that way? I just didn't feel like going that far with this bike. Thanks for thinking I was paint ignorant, hehe.,,,BD
believe it or not, most people are not like you and I, and don't have several paint guns and 3 compressors just lying around, waiting for us to paint something.

so the suggestions for the MUCH improved spraycan paint are for the general public, OBVIOUSLY if you happen to have a IWATA LPH100 (or LPH300) and a 25CFM compressor lying around, by all means put some urethane through it.

(why did you waste your time doing THAT beautiful of a job with spraycan lacquer?, trainer bike? compressor packed away?)

peace, love, and isocyanates

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Old 03-11-08, 07:52 PM   #24
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I don't know why really. I wanted to see how nice I could get it to come out, and I knew it would be a commuter in a few months anyway, which it now is. It has a vintage set of Bluemels, and trekking bars as of this evening. I can't leave anything alone, lol. I just started riding to work today, now that the time change gets me home before dark. Dark is dangerous in my area. I cross two major intersections plus a freeway intersection.,,,,BD

It's a shame about the bar change too. I just couldn't use the big drops. The tops of the hoods were too low, and the levers too high on the bottom. Cinelli stem and bars too. Tsk tsk.....
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